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Nater_Potater said:
jaydee75 said:
I went to 1/2" so I could use a Sportster seal kit. Works great. I like the stock appearance.
Jaydee
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Good tip! Who makes your 1/2" conversion kit, or did you build it yourself? If I can ever get my lathe back in operation, I'll do it myself (stubborn/cheap). At 1/2" (12.7mm), it should have very similar brake feel as my 12mm. I'd like to get back to the stock M/C as I don't really like the way I had to cobble a bracket to hold the stock switch cluster.
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Well, if you want "better" braking, and want to retain the stock right-hand Norton switch cluster ... you could get a bracket and Nissin M/C from forum member "madass140"; like I did. He makes high quality Norton "parts" and is great to deal with. The Nissin M/C is FAR superior to the OEM Norton-Lockheed. The Nissin includes a brake light switch, and with a braided hose ... "Bobs yer uncle" 8)

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She's Back!
 
It all started so innocently; I felt it was time to upgrade the alternator, so I opted for a drop-in 200W unit. While the primary drive was open, the "need" for taller gearing came to mind. Well, since the primary's all apart, now's the time to do something about those sloppy isolastics. I'm sure not going to go to all the trouble to shim the old ones without upping to some verniers, since I'm already this far. The rear fender and horn really need to come out for better access... Here's that cute horn everyone's talking about! Y'know, the kick and shift seal weep a bit; how about some x-rings? A link head steady would be the hot ticket, too. The stock points and AAU are pretty dated; maybe an upgrade to a Pazon would be a good idea, in light of the reduced maintenance and increased reliability. Hey, here's a drop-in H4 bulb for the stock headlight! LED everything else?
SOMEBODY STOP ME!!!
She's Back!
 
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Yes Sir, you've got it bad now. No hope , just dive in, lansdowne front end, better brakes, Amal premiers, braided hoses.....
For God's sake Man, do not start totaling it up. Swear to the others your about 5 grand in and could sell it for 8 if you had to.

A sickness I tell you...
 
hankmarx said:
Yes Sir, you've got it bad now. No hope , just dive in, lansdowne front end, better brakes, Amal premiers, braided hoses.....
For God's sake Man, do not start totaling it up. Swear to the others your about 5 grand in and could sell it for 8 if you had to.

A sickness I tell you...
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A better way is to measure the folder of receipts. Less than an inch thick, you're O.K. Over one inch, but less than two, you're getting there. Over two inches, you have a fine Norton!
 
you may think about throwing away the original head lamp unit. It is typical joe lucas crap. Buy a wagner or hella H4 unit. fit heavy cables from both terminals on your battery through to your headlamp. fit 2 relays to each and hey prestow, you have better lights than a late model motoguzzi a friend had. I was told a t a Norton rally that my light was really bright [ noticed in daylight too ]. the only thing I'm not happy with is that fact that it shines in the possums eyes up in the trees at the side of the road. I would like more light in front, but that's only because I think my eyesight is not a good as it was 40 years ago when I got my first commando [ which I still have by the way].
 
As long as lights eyes above fence height and are red or orange or yellow no worries matie. its the lower blue or green white-ish eyes that'l get ya. Relays help and takes a good bit of heat out the bars from the switch current resistance. I have to aim light but bumping it depending on my cargo loads as how steep and direction on slopes. Btw everyone has been politely ignoring your comfy ape hangers and long cable,hoses...
 
kerinorton said:
...fit heavy cables from both terminals on your battery through to your headlamp. fit 2 relays to each and hey prestow, you have better lights than a late model motoguzzi a friend had...
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I did the same thing on my "modern" UJM after cooking its ignition switch, and it definitely helped in its brightness.
hobot said:
Btw everyone has been politely ignoring your comfy ape hangers and long cable,hoses...
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Steve, I think you may have crossed the line with that one. You should apologize... :wink:
 
hobot said:
Btw everyone has been politely ignoring your comfy ape hangers and long cable,hoses...
Click to expand...
Nater_Potater said:
Steve, I think you may have crossed the line with that one. You should apologize... :wink:
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Mmm ... would that be "my" comfy ape hangers and long cables, hoses ... Steve is refering to ??? I recall giving hobot the same handlebars at the 2011 "Empire Rally" yesiree; so he also, could enjoy comfy Commando on long rides with armpit hairs cooling in the breeze ... yesiree, I'll tell ya what 8)
 
nortriubuell thanx for throwing my snide ape hanger remark back at me. I got time crunched on Empire rally trip prep, as common, so didn't fit them for full effect of Peel not fitting in any class INOA allowed to in their show. They did provide a place for choppers, bobbers and rat'ers outside the roped in show area where Peel was one of 3 non conformist non cafe's humped over ape posture low bar bikes. Peels T140 Triumph 8" riser bars, after ending up side down twice on them and bend back, mostly, still gave similar up-right flaunt i was seeking. Everytime I get one of my cycles roadworthy in joy again, something bad has happened to throw me back in ape like wrenching again. Best wishes getting it to last a while.
 
After pulling the swingarm shaft, it was obvious someone in her past had been greasing the pivot, rather than using the prescribed 140 oil. The shaft, after 10,000 miles, shows virtually no signs of wear, with no detectable slop in the bushings. The shaft has a 1/16" hole in each end on the lower side (opposite the "anchor" bolt), roughly centered in each oillite bushing. Are these holes normal? I'm thinking that's what allowed the grease to work as well as it did.

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The very slight discoloration that can be seen below the hole and towards the end is the extent of the wear. Based on my observations of the surfaces, I'm going to continue the practice of greasing this assembly. Thoughts/ideas?
 
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You flat lucked out the DPO had grit enough to pump hard enough to get some grease through those small oil passage holes. You also are now in hobot black sheep camp liking the greasy spindle. Just need to open the factory oil holes up to grease oozing size and spiral groove the bushes so grease can spread around. The spindle has very hard surface only prone to rust but not wear on soft sintered bronze so may have to stone off around the holes before a normal drill bit can bite. Put collars on cradle to extend bush life and give'r her a pump once a year or two and keep ahead of the rusted items behind the 'dry' spindle.
 
Love the story, Nater !! Pete sounds like he was a wonderful guy, what an amazing surprise for you! And your dad had such good taste in motorcycles for starters..! I can imagine that first ride was pretty emotional. It certainly would be for me. Looks like you have things well in hand, and the bike looks soooo good.

After 25 years I bought back my '74 Commando. It's been 7 years since then, and I am still waiting for that first ride. If money holds out and good Lord willing, I just might get my first ride this summer. I, too, have waited so long. It must feel great..

Thanks for sharing..

Tom
 
So, after riding for a whole summer and racking up around 6,000 miles, I was replacing the muffler rubber mounts, and noticed that the header pipe slid forward out of the head. Some PO had the exhaust threads "repaired", and the right side was now loose in the head. It was time for a tear-down, since I was tired of an incessant head gasket oil leak coming from around the right exhaust port. Now in my 8 X 9 foot shed...
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Here's what I'm dealing with:
She's Back!


And, since the head's off, you might as well look at the pistons.
She's Back!


Heli-coils; yep, someone beat me to it.
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Overall, the bores look pretty clean. The vertical markings can't be felt, so I'll measure the bore to piston clearance this evening and make the call at that point on whether or not to bore oversize. As it stands, I don't know what size it is. As it appears that someone's already been in there, all bets are off.
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I'm happy to report that the followers look great, as do the cam lobes. 'Dodged a bullet there!
She's Back!


Updates to follow.

Nathan
 
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"Heli-coils; yep, someone beat me to it."

Weren't Heli-coils installed at the factory?
 
lazyeye6 said:
"Heli-coils; yep, someone beat me to it."

Weren't Heli-coils installed at the factory?
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L.A.B.?

Since this is the first time I've ever pulled the top off of a Norton, I don't know. If this is the first time, I'm impressed with what I see after more than 17,000 miles.

Nathan
 
Since this is the first time I've ever pulled the top off of a Norton, I don't know. If this is the first time, I'm impressed with what I see after more than 17,000 miles.

Nathan[/quote]

17,000 miles is not much at all really, if the maintenance is kept up and good oil used these motors will last a very long time, after 40 years of owning my Norton it still pulls like a train and was a everyday ride except when it was reworked or doing other mods over the years, but thats why we love our Nortons.

Ashley
 
Head's on its way back from Jim's shop for exhaust thread repair (thanks, Jim!), so I thought I'd pull the gearbox case out for proper cleaning, as it's already apart for the layshaft bearing replacement. Guess what? It won't come out!
She's Back!


It's so stinking close! The one thing I was hoping to avoid was taking the rear motor mount apart, but it looks like this is what it'll take to break the stalemate. With the top end off, the only thing left holding the motor in is the front mount, which has to come out for new rubbers anyway. S#!T I really didn't think it'd go this far inside my tiny little shed.

I shouldn't complain; I'm having fun! So far, it's only cost me $900 (this year). 'Keeps me out of the bars...

Nathan
 
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