Sensors TRIAL

richard-7 said:
Its interesting there wasn’t as o-ring on the new sensor. Good to note to keep an eye out for. There are starters for wet and dry conditions and we,ve seen many Norton starters without the o-ring too. Which means someone ordered the wrong ones. Which equates to oil on top of the engine cases.

These suppliers deal such high volume they could care less about if a few seals are missing out of 10 million units.
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Honestly, Richard, there may have been one. I had a look pretty much to compare markings and may have missed the O ring. As I stated, I ran the bike and no leaks. However, I didn't ride and build much pressure. Going out to check now because I actually lost sleep last night thinking about it. Damn
 
Sensors TRIAL
Sensors TRIAL
Ok. Good news. My new sensor has an O ring on it. Bad news, I stripped the threads. How the hell can they strip thumb tight with a 3" hex key? Are they made of wax or something? Took the sensor off, the screw catches one thread deeper. The sensor fits quite snugly, so I can either A. put a little Loctite on it and hope for the best, or B. Just drill a small portion of the sensors hole and counter sink the screw, C. retap the hole and go with a bigger screw, which I really don't want to do. As you can see, both have the O ring. The old sensor on the left is surprisingly clean with no corrosion to speak of. The new sensor is a little different. A little more substantial. I'm kind of pissed at myself right now. Excuse me while I let out a primal scream.
 
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Britfan60 said:
Oh crap. I just changed my crank sensor and didn't notice an O ring. Haven't ridden it yet. Just ran it for a few minutes. No leak. Well, only one screw. sigh
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Very thin o-ring. Easy to miss but if properly installed it will feel like it snaps into place. Sorry about the stripped threads.
 
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Maybe you can just get a 5mm longer screw to bite a little deeper in the threaded hole ? Measure the hole depth with a thin rod or nail and measure how much deeper it goes. You may be lucky and have enough depth to put a longer screw in. Don't over torque it and use a drop of blue Loctite on the threads .
 
Yes. The O ring is a thinner diameter than on the original. Also harder to see in black than in grey. Also yes, it snaps into place and actually holds quite securely. Tony, just so far, I've put Loctite on it and the screw is...well...tighter anyway, but I've thought of taking it out to see if I can find one a little longer. I still can believe how easily it stripped though by just snugging it up with a small allen key. Not like I used a long wrench on it.
 
Britfan, I Looked at the cam sensor mount screw hole this evening and it is far deeper than the original screw length. Here's where it doesn't make sense. I tried a matching longer screw and it would not screw any farther in to the case than the shorter original. Does not appear to be tapped that deep which means that you could probably tap the hole deeper and use a loner screw if need be .
 
gchoppin said:
Britfan, I Looked at the cam sensor mount screw hole this evening and it is far deeper than the original screw length. Here's where it doesn't make sense. I tried a matching longer screw and it would not screw any farther in to the case than the shorter original. Does not appear to be tapped that deep which means that you could probably tap the hole deeper and use a loner screw if need be .
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So essentially you could chase the thread with a tap and go deeper. That seems like the easiest solution.
 
richard-7 said:
So essentially you could chase the thread with a tap and go deeper. That seems like the easiest solution.
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If there's enough of the original threads to get the tap started it should work easily. Didn't have the scoot up on my lift so I'm saying it's not threaded deeper based on the longer matching screw stopping after no more turns than the shorter OEM screw. Worth looking at if stripped.
 
The screw slides in and the threads catch exactly where the screw was still inside the sensor tab. I'll have a closer looks at the screw itself. Its still has threads, but maybe these old eyes aren't catching something. Anyway, even with the screw that spins, the sensor stayed in securely on my ride yesterday.
 
Yea. I could tap it (don't have a tap and die kit) or even use a longer screw and shim it with a washer under the screw head.
 
Here’s something else. Before some engine mods to fix oil in Airbox I found that keeping the airbox sensor clean made a big difference. I used to gently wipe with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. This is the sensor if you remove your airfilter, reach towards back of bike and up.
 
richard-7 said:
Here’s something else. Before some engine mods to fix oil in Airbox I found that keeping the airbox sensor clean made a big difference. I used to gently wipe with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. This is the sensor if you remove your airfilter, reach towards back of bike and up.
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Thanks for that. Oddly enough, My air filter and surrounding area have always remained particularly clean. I'll give that a try just for basic maintenance.
 
Britfan60 said:
Thanks for that. Oddly enough, My air filter and surrounding area have always remained particularly clean. I'll give that a try just for basic maintenance.
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Be thankful for that then. Fingers crossed your gremlins died with lack of electricity.

Cheers.
 
Thanks Richard for the his tip I finally changed mine last night and took it out his morning can't believe the difference I was totally shocked also massive thanks for the manuals I got into a bit of strife with one under the starter motor with the lack of room and got a bit ambitious, any way thanks to your manuals clear pictures I managed to reassemble the starter and everything is working well just need some rain now to see if the bike behaves itself.
 
I'm new to Nortons. Bosch 0280130026. When I look up this sensor it shows is a coolant temp sensor. Is that the correct sensor that plugs into the head??
 
That’s interesting, and gets me wondering if a coolant temp sensor is the right thing to use in an air cooled head ?
 
Depends on the temps its detecting vs the makers parameters, as long the max temp does not effect its workings if the ECU is only looking for 100C as a marker that the engine is warm enough for normal fuelling it will work. In a water cooled car it has to cope with blown head gaskets and survive.
 
kommando said:
Depends on the temps its detecting vs the makers parameters, as long the max temp does not effect its workings if the ECU is only looking for 100C as a marker that the engine is warm enough for normal fuelling it will work. In a water cooled car it has to cope with blown head gaskets and survive.
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That would explain it - sensor max is 130 deg C, head temperatures normally in the high hundreds.
 

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