Oil Pressure Gauge

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dynodave said:
You can't do a full AMR upgrade to a MKIII. Only the pump mods can be done...and why bother if the pump is dead? The first thing to try is pull out the piston and pull the piston/spring out and polish it with crocus cloth and then buff it to a mirror finish and clean the bore up in the timng cover. That should improve the wet sumping but won't do a thing for a dead pump and neither will the AMR mod....
Honestly, I know of no one in the world who has bothered to make an oil pump test rig until...I did. I would assume the original maker of the pump does, but I would bet a substantial amount of money it is NOT NA. I will eventually have a testing procedure down and specs too....My data and test procedures are a bit too crude for my satisfaction so far.... and I can't commit the time at present for such a low priority project .

Hopefully the pump is not dead. I'll inspect it upon removal, and if there is no obvious damage to my untrained eye send it off to AMR for professional inspection and refurbishment. Their service charge is pretty reasonable.

Based on problems elsewhere on the bike (primary crank seal incorrectly installed, cylinders improperly rebored, incorrect valve guides installed, etc. etc. etc.) it's entirely possible there are other causes for the low oil pressure such as the timing crank seal installed incorrectly or missing...

Will know more this weekend. If the pump is really toast then of course I'll shell out for a new one...
 
I bet Dyno Dave would test your pump for you if you ask nicely even if he says his test procedure is crude. Well it seemed pretty good to me. I saw it in action at the last rally. Crude to Dyno Dave is still a lot better than anything else which is pretty much nonexistent anyway.
 
Well the local shop seems to thinks the pump looks pretty decent. Also took a known good gauge and verified that pressure is very low. At startup, reads about 3 psi per 1000 rpm and just goes down after warm-up. They are going to swap in a known good oil pump for me just to see if that makes a difference. All the seals, etc. look good on the timing side. Did not specifically discuss the OPRV with them when I dropped by on Saturday.

Will keep you posted.

Cheers,

- HJ
 
So some bad news.

Shop verified the pump is in good working order and so is the OPRV. Gaskets and seals appeared to be all in good working order. The shop disconnected the anti-sump valve and took pressure readings at the head.

Bike is showing 1/4 normal oil pressure. At this point the local shop (which I trust and is not the shop that did the rebuild) thinks the issue is in the crank case, most likely worn rod bearings. So with less than 1500 miles on a rebuilt bike I need to have the cases split and go back into the bottom end.

At this point I'm just completely fed up. Almost every major system on this bike has been repaired at this point. Bike came with carbs and clutch maladjusted, shoddy electrical wiring, wrong inlet valve guide(!), cylinder head studs installed wrong way round (which subsequently pulled out when trying to set the torque), improperly honed cylinders requiring reboring and new pistons, and apparently a dodgy oil system (cause still to be determined). Over the course of less than 1500 miles I have had numerous failed components, latest to include a layshaft bearing (supposedly new). All this from a supposedly professional rebuild.

Expensive lesson learned don't trust internet references.

Cheers,

- HJ
 
I went from a major overhaul to a complete rebuild, so I feel your pain, and so does my wallet. Only thing original I have left is the frame(straightened), engine(rebuilt), hubs(rebuilt), and the oil tank which got modified!!
 
GrandPaul with Born Again Bikes.

Out of all this, 'warranty service' came down to replacement of a broken valve spring I had discovered when initially replacing the guide seals (not yet realizing the wrong guides were installed).

Thinking about making a thread outlining the whole experience. Not trying to pursue a vendetta, but would like people to know about the quality of the work done so they can make an educated decision. I know Chip posted about his experiences about a year ago; I was out of the country on a military deployment at the time and couldn't chime in.

Cheers,

- HJ
 
I think it is important to call out obvious incompetence, especially if you paid good hard earned money.

One would rightfully assume that Grandpaul should refund your money or a good part of it for your cost of having other people now split the cases and make right what he did wrong.

yes why not start a new thread outlining your experience.

If nothing else, it might warn off other unsuspecting victims away from him.
 
Hungry J0e said:
Well the local shop seems to thinks the pump LOOKS pretty decent. HJ

Looking is surely not enough you will have to MEASURE! Last year I bought a new genuine A.N. oil pump. Mounted it: No pressure at all! When the pump was taken apart I measured 0,3mm gap between the feed gears and housing (sideways). Actually this gap should be close to nothing or the oil will pump around inside. After I machined down the housing to reduce the gap to approx 0,01mm my gauge showed a healty 50 PSI (hot engine above 4000tpm).
I suggest you should have another 'look' at your pump :!:
 
nortonspeed said:
Looking is surely not enough you will have to MEASURE! Last year I bought a new genuine A.N. oil pump. Mounted it: No pressure at all! When the pump was taken apart I measured 0,3mm gap between the feed gears and housing (sideways). Actually this gap should be close to nothing or the oil will pump around inside. After I machined down the housing to reduce the gap to approx 0,01mm my gauge showed a healty 50 PSI (hot engine above 4000tpm).
I suggest you should have another 'look' at your pump :!:

If you read my follow up post, you'll see I said they confirmed the pump was OK. They did this by disassembling and inspecting. Also did a swap with a known good pump and results were the same.

Cheers,

- HJ
 
Ugh, then implies as already mentioned, big end may need renewing. At least these Cdo seem to only need an open path to crank shaft for sling flow oiling that part and then some pump priessure to lift oil to trickle into head and down on cam some.
 
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