Good Thing I Have an Oil Pressure Gauge!

I had seen some wet sumping happening over say a week of not riding as indicated on the dipstick, then the day after a longish ride at the weekend there‘s a no show at all on the dipstick. Going by the posts above, this possibly doesn’t bode well and needs investigating as discussed, I’m guessing.
 

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Oil line and screen checked out OK, but the bolt that holds the oil junction block to the case was only a little more than finger tight. There was also a coating of oil, probably from a fine mist from around the return line junction. .🤔
 
Oil line and screen checked out OK, but the bolt that holds the oil junction block to the case was only a little more than finger tight. There was also a coating of oil, probably from a fine mist from around the return line junction. .🤔
Nope.
 
Well at least I have taken care of everything up to the timing cover. With a new OPRV and a properly tightened oil junction block it's carrying twice the oil pressure than before, even at idle when hot.
 
I also pulled the magnetic drain plug and the sump screen. The magnet did gather a little bit of hair but not nearly as much as the first time I pulled it. Looks like the rings are seating in. Also the sump screen was clean as a whistle so I don't think I hurt the engine any.
 
Well at least I have taken care of everything up to the timing cover. With a new OPRV and a properly tightened oil junction block it's carrying twice the oil pressure than before, even at idle when hot.
How much oil was squirting out of the oil junction block?
 
How much oil was squirting out of the oil junction block?
That's what was puzzlingly. It didn't leak enough to leave spots but there was a film on the gearbox behind the junction block. The return line has a ferrule but the suction line doesn't. I think that it may have been sucking air and the OPRV was pretty manky. It may have been letting oil by.

It's carrying 15 psi at idle when hot now.
 
That's what was puzzlingly. It didn't leak enough to leave spots but there was a film on the gearbox behind the junction block. The return line has a ferrule but the suction line doesn't. I think that it may have been sucking air and the OPRV was pretty manky. It may have been letting oil by.

It's carrying 15 psi at idle when hot now.
So, how does she run, all hotted up?
 
So, how does she run, all hotted up?
As I expected, the closing of the intake valve later in the compression stroke makes it easier to kick over in part I'm sure due to the increased leverage on the kicker arm. I do not try to bring it all the way to the top anymore. That is why I opted for flat tappets as opposed to the 4" radius. It is more responsive at low/medium RPM and really starts to pull hard above 4000 although I haven't pushed it yet. The exhaust note is much crisper.

I did pull the timing cover and found that, for some reason, the outer end of the oil pump worm was contacting the snap ring holding the crankshaft seal. The seal was extremely brittle and somewhat deformed, probably from the heat of friction due to the contact. I do believe that I have found "the smoking gun" of my bizarre oil pressure issues.

I will pull the the pump, timing chain, pinion gear, etc, so that I can investigate further.
 
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Kick start effort is less because your valve events are happening later , less dynamic compression .
Exactly, but not ratcheting the pedal all the way to the top helps too. It is no longer necessary to do so in order to get a complete stroke past TDC. With 10.1:1 static CR, the dynamic CR is about 7.4:1 with the Web 312c compared to 7.1:1 for the stock cam at 8.5:1 static CR.
 
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As I expected, the closing of the intake valve later in the compression stroke makes it easier to kick over in part I'm sure due to the increased leverage on the kicker arm. I do not try to bring it all the way to the top anymore. That is why I opted for flat tappets as opposed to the 4" radius. It is more responsive at low/medium RPM and really starts to pull hard above 4000 although I haven't pushed it yet. The exhaust note is much crisper.

I did pull the timing cover and found that, for some reason, the outer end of the oil pump worm was contacting the snap ring holding the crankshaft seal. The seal was extremely brittle and somewhat deformed, probably from the heat of friction due to the contact. I do believe that I have found "the smoking gun" of my bizarre oil pressure issues.

I will pull the the pump, timing chain, pinion gear, etc, so that I can investigate further.
That is odd, gotta answer the WHY there...
 
The drive worm touching the circlip
That's what needs to be determined.
I don't remember exactly what the crankshaft and play was, but I do know that it was near minimum spec.

I need to clean up the shop and find some tools buried under all the clutter before I delve into it any deeper.

The worm was tightened down against pinion gear, but it appears that maybe the pinion gear isn't seated all the way.
 
Exactly, but not ratcheting the pedal all the way to the top helps too. It is no longer necessary to do so in order to get a complete stroke past TDC.

Good to see you finally got to the Norton rodeo grounds and took that timing cover off. :)

I'd need a step ladder to start my Norton with the kick start straight up. I never let the pedal come all the way back up before kicking it. 5'8" 29" inseam comical hopping kick start technique. No center stand, so I have to be on flat ground so I don't fall over.

Arguably off topic: Did you install a big commonly sold for Harley dual coil on your 850? If so, how do you like it? One of those might make starts a little easier. I've been thinking about getting one. 40,000 volts and whatever the rest of the electrical spec is should make a nice spark.
 
Good to see you finally got to the Norton rodeo grounds and took that timing cover off. :)

I'd need a step ladder to start my Norton with the kick start straight up. I never let the pedal come all the way back up before kicking it. 5'8" 29" inseam comical hopping kick start technique. No center stand, so I have to be on flat ground so I don't fall over.

Arguably off topic: Did you install a big commonly sold for Harley dual coil on your 850? If so, how do you like it? One of those might make starts a little easier. I've been thinking about getting one. 40,000 volts and whatever the rest of the electrical spec is should make a nice spark.
Trixie already had Tri-spark ignition with upgraded coils. It's a breeze to start now, seldom taking more than one kick hot or cold.
 
Good to see you finally got to the Norton rodeo grounds and took that timing cover off. :)

I'd need a step ladder to start my Norton with the kick start straight up. I never let the pedal come all the way back up before kicking it. 5'8" 29" inseam comical hopping kick start technique. No center stand, so I have to be on flat ground so I don't fall over.

Arguably off topic: Did you install a big commonly sold for Harley dual coil on your 850? If so, how do you like it? One of those might make starts a little easier. I've been thinking about getting one. 40,000 volts and whatever the rest of the electrical spec is should make a nice spark.
Those coils are fantastic IMO. My playing around on the dyno has demonstrated unarguably that a big powerful spark benefits these old motors.

If you’re running Tri Spark I would highly recommend getting one that’s been well researched and is proven to compliment the Tri Spark. In other words, buy from Matt at cNw.
 
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