Oil filter

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If you can't find oil filters in the US, then there is a problem. They should be plentiful, the same filter was fitted to many Ducati models and several other motorcycles in the past.
 
No problem finding M16x1.5 filters in the US. It's the redamndickulous paying $13-16US for them locally that I try to get around. I've paid more for Ducati and BMW branded oil filters, but the WIX filter isn't particularly high end or that well made, and it's not worth $14 to me. A $5 O'Reilly MicroGard oil filter made by WIX would do the same job.
 
After following up on the list put all needs be said is a whole new vista of easily acquired filters is opened for me.
 
Back when I was turning wrenches on recip airplanes all of the round engines and many of the flat engines had only screens, no filters. The flat engines with no filter generally had a 25 hour oil change interval while the big round engines' oil was never changed. They would have 25 to 50 gallon oil tanks and used so much oil that it was regularly replaced in service.

Anyway, both types would have their screens pulled and inspected at regular intervals. While hopefully there would be no metal there was always shiny carbon flakes. Besides not being attracted to a magnet the carbon was soft enough to be broken with a finger nail. The screens were full flow on the pressure side of the pump. There was also a coarse suction screen that would find big pieces, sometimes surprisingly big pieces!
 
kommando said:
Element Symbol Form Hardness
6 C carbon (graphite) 0.5
6 C carbon (diamond) 10.0

Source

Hardnesses of the elements (data page) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
Click to expand...
Sludge and black colour in engine oil is, to a great extent, lamp black, also called carbon black. It’s not graphite, but it sure as Hell isn’t diamond!

There used to be a brand of oil sold in the U.K., that contained colloidal graphite. It was black before you even put it in the engine.

https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/march-1933/43/the-brdc-dinner-dance
 
Triton Thrasher said:
Strange table appears to say “carbon,” in an unspecified form, has the same hardness as diamond.

Am I reading it wrong?
Click to expand...

No.

Carbon in any grit size is still carbon. It can be filtered out if the grit size is larger than the micron rating of the filter you choose. Diamonds are carbon that either nature or manufacturing have heated and compressed long enough to attain the qualities that are associated with diamonds. When carbon gains the crystalline form of a diamond it becomes easier to use as an abrasive, but given the heat and mechanical mayhem inside an engine any carbon that is circulated in an engine is abrasive. Such action could easily become a non-issue considering other engine components.

I think it might have been C R Axtell that built the Harley "K" engines. He would add diamond paste to the oil to enhance break-in, run them for a very shot time then full disassemble, clean, reassemble and head to the track.

Carbon that is produced as a by-product combustion has a much smaller grit size, but is abrasive non-the-less and can increase ware in an engine which may or may not be significant depending on your maintenance routine; more significant than the abrasive action of the water, with sediment, that created the Grand Canyon.

Best.
 
Been using the “hi-flo” xxx153 oil filter on Ducati and Commando for several years now , hope it meets current best practice .... usually get 6 at a time +\- $10 ea. and change oil/filter religiously .... so far no debris on screen of either bike or anything stuck to sump magnet ....
 
If you have concerns about the oil filter, just put a stocking over it as an extra barrier.
 
Since no one has mentioned it yet, here goes: Do not use the K&N "welded nut" type filters on any vehicle you care about. I've seen these on modern Triumphs, sport bike, race bikes and even vintage Commando's (MiTy had one on his 850 during one of his excellent video series on fitting the rear swing arm with clamps). These filters have a long history of failing at the poor quality tack weld points. Even on bikes that run low pressure through them . Even when the owner follows the daft instructions to not install the filter using the nut. They had a recall on a batch, yet reports of failures continue in later batches. I believe they were also probhited from use on many US race track associations.
 
I've never been a fan of K&N, especially their claims of increased HP. They're certainly better than nothing if you need the clearance in your installation.
 
As some of you know, I try to resolve cost problems for US forum members. I'm out of some, but can get more if people are interested. Of course, paying shipping for one filter might make it cost more than an auto parts store, but if you want multiple or other things shipping hurts less.

Norton (AN) Filter $10.00 (Have 6)
Champion Filter $8.00 (Out right now)
Generic Filter $5.00 (Out right now)
 
There are many good factors to take into consideration when choosing a filter; fitment, filtration, robustness, etc...

But, given it’s something that only costs a few dollars, and usually only gets changed once, perhaps twice per year, I cannot imagine that cost is a serious factor...
 
I use a Baldwin B474 for my '74 Commando. Specs say - Micron rating is 5 with 8 PSID by pass valve. Seems to work for me ok.
 
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