Not another oil thread but I need some guidance

[Old Bloke]

Mike
Unfortunately not clear guidance, just how I decided on my choice of oil.

After reading days of forum guidance on oil choice I plumped for this 20/50w stuff.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/halfords-classic-oil-20w50-5l#/#tab3

My criteria for this choice was:
It was cheap, so can be changed a lot.
It is green
It smells nice
I can buy it at any Halfords when I need to.

Doh, not a great way to decide, but I couldn't decipher all the open advice on the web. Bike doesn't smoke, I've no oil leaks, doesn't wet sump.... Theres plenty to worry about already wrt the Commando's operation, so I don't worry about the oil.

Chin up, not all posts on the forum go South!

 

[lwmcd1]

Discussions about oil tends to get very involved. But with todays better quality oil I believe it's mostly academic. I use NAPA 20w50 full syn.
Also, there is an oil filter kit available which I would recommend.
https://www.oldbritts.com/13_064283.html

 

[Fast Eddie]

Discussions about oil tends to get very involved. But with todays better quality oil I believe it's mostly academic. I use NAPA 20w50 full syn.
Also, there is an oil filter kit available which I would recommend.
https://www.oldbritts.com/13_064283.html

There is an irony though, despite oil getting better, it may be worse for our old engines than any of the older stuff. Yes modern oil is generally good. Modern synthetic more so. Some of the high end synthetic is just awesome stuff.

But... Here's the rub... Our engine like / need zinc and most (if not all) modern oils designed for cars have the zinc greatly reduced in order to protect catalytic converters and diesel particulate filters.

Hence the advantage in buying oil (preferably a good oil) with a known zinc quantity.

At least that's my (unqualified) conclusion.

 

[lwmcd1]

Agreed.
I believe the reason I selected NAPA syn is because it does contain a fair amount of zinc, I could be wrong, I often am.

 

[mikegray660]

+1 -works for me!

blah blah blah

Against my better judgement I will clarify.

putting on the miles... I just got the bike running and am breaking it in.

infrequent use...... not my primary machine and will be for limited use after break in.

Jeez, shoot me for a simple question.
I will figure it out for myself.

Ald please feel free to beat the dead horse. Im done here.

Thanks to all who replied with good information.

No offense intended to anyone.

Just block him via the foe function mike. It will hide his comments.

 

[ed.lazda]

An oil thread always benefits from the approach of Graham Ham, who has ridden a 1948 Triumph twin over 200,000 miles. His attitude when out on the road is that anything is better than nothing, so he puts in what he can get. He likes it when people tell him why he can't do this, while they ignore the evidence -- he turned up on his bike -- that he obviously can.

If there was a clear answer to what oil we should be using, we would know it by now, and we would all agree. We don't, and that means it probably doesn't matter too much. As long as it's slippery, and gloopy enough, it'll do the job.

Put in some 20w50 mineral, or 40w monograde, or some 20w50 synthetic if you've got a full flow filter. If you need to top it up when away from your shed, you'll end up with a mixture anyway. Then enjoy the ride.

 

[SteveA]

Then enjoy the ride.

Magic words.

enough to stop me worrying that the 25 litres of monograde 40 I bought was a bad choice

The first 5 pints probably won't even get 'warm'!

 

[MikeG]

I have a 71 750 that I am now putting some real miles on. The builder put in 30W non detergent for break in. I have about 300 miles on it and it runs great.
He advised after break in to get the stuff out and run a 20/50 non detergent. Is this the right mix? I dont want to get into a big thing about brand. I just want to put in the proper weight and mix. What are you guys running?
Detergent, non detergent, weight.
Please dont let this thread go south, I am just looking for information.

Mike-I run Valvolene VR1 straight 50wt in my 71 750. I started using it because of the zinc content only, but this thread got me to wondering about non detergent oils, and I was a little surprised that your builder recommended it. The only thing I ever ran it in was a Model A Ford. If you Google VR1 and look at the specs they state is it a high zinc low detergent oil.
FWIW
MIkeG

 

[DogT]

I think you'll find the Mobil 1 V-Twin has more than the VR-1. And it's easier to start. As I say, some oil is good, the right amount is better and none is bad. Probably anything you use will be fine.

 

[tomspro]

And just in case you did not have enough endless discussion here, the corvette people do it too!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-...acing-oil-isnt-the-oil-we-thought-it-was.html

 

[Dkt26]

WGB shortly, if he doesn't drop the smart-arse attitude.

+1M

 

[MikeM]

I have a 71 750 that I am now putting some real miles on. The builder put in 30W non detergent for break in. I have about 300 miles on it and it runs great.
He advised after break in to get the stuff out and run a 20/50 non detergent. Is this the right mix? I dont want to get into a big thing about brand. I just want to put in the proper weight and mix. What are you guys running?
Detergent, non detergent, weight.
Please dont let this thread go south, I am just looking for information.

Mike-I run Valvolene VR1 straight 50wt in my 71 750. I started using it because of the zinc content only, but this thread got me to wondering about non detergent oils, and I was a little surprised that your builder recommended it. The only thing I ever ran it in was a Model A Ford. If you Google VR1 and look at the specs they state is it a high zinc low detergent oil.
FWIW
MIkeG

Yes!!
I have found this.

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
Looks like just what I need. I am leaning to the non det due to not haveing and oil filter.
Now that I think about it this is a rather entertaining thread. You should see the oil threads on the Harley forum. Entertaining as well.
To whoever told me to use the block button, I never do that. I can take it.
Its just the internet.
I have made my choice and I hope you have all made yours for whatever reason. Oil up and good luck! I am a firm believer in using whatever works for you.
Again, no ill will to anyone. Well maybe just one.
8)

 

[Fast Eddie]

I have a 71 750 that I am now putting some real miles on. The builder put in 30W non detergent for break in. I have about 300 miles on it and it runs great.
He advised after break in to get the stuff out and run a 20/50 non detergent. Is this the right mix? I dont want to get into a big thing about brand. I just want to put in the proper weight and mix. What are you guys running?
Detergent, non detergent, weight.
Please dont let this thread go south, I am just looking for information.

Mike-I run Valvolene VR1 straight 50wt in my 71 750. I started using it because of the zinc content only, but this thread got me to wondering about non detergent oils, and I was a little surprised that your builder recommended it. The only thing I ever ran it in was a Model A Ford. If you Google VR1 and look at the specs they state is it a high zinc low detergent oil.
FWIW
MIkeG

Yes!!
I have found this.

VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)

The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
Looks like just what I need. I am leaning to the non det due to not haveing and oil filter.
Now that I think about it this is a rather entertaining thread. You should see the oil threads on the Harley forum. Entertaining as well.
To whoever told me to use the block button, I never do that. I can take it.
Its just the internet.
I have made my choice and I hope you have all made yours for whatever reason. Oil up and good luck! I am a firm believer in using whatever works for you.
Again, no ill will to anyone. Well maybe just one.
8)

I'd still take a look at the Redline website. Their oil has more zinc than VR1. It is also available in different multi grades. It is also available as a race oil, which does not have detergent. As a matter of interest, it is the lack of detergent that makes them suggest NOT using it in a road bike (re your initial question).

 

[lwmcd1]

This seems to be a good comparison chart.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO ... final.html

 

[searunner]

I have used REDLINE Full Synthetic 20W50 oil on my MG TD 52 with very good results - but now in Italy the prices of the importer are so high
that I have decided to shift to SHELL HELIX Ultra Racing Full Synthetic 10W-60 - I have find it at low price in Germany
https://picasaweb.google.com/1127708198 ... 7824961858
https://picasaweb.google.com/1127708198 ... 5441733106
https://picasaweb.google.com/1127708198 ... 6772630130
I have recently turned to it my Austin Healey 100/6 1957- and my sail boat VOLVO 2003 Turbo Diesel with good results
I am inclined to turn to it also my Norton Commando 1974

 

[lcrken]

I'd still take a look at the Redline website. Their oil has more zinc than VR1. It is also available in different multi grades. It is also available as a race oil, which does not have detergent. As a matter of interest, it is the lack of detergent that makes them suggest NOT using it in a road bike (re your initial question).

Actually, Redline race oils do have detergents. They are just a different sort than the ones in their street oils. According to Redline, the race oils contain "Special detergents for improved lubricity and less detonation".

I've used Redline 50WT race oils in my race Nortons for many years, on Axtell's recommendation, and have had good results. On my street Nortons I've used a variety of oils, all of which seemed to work just fine. I don't think the Commando is really that fussy about oil, as long as it's the right grade and regularly changed. Right now I've got Rotella T 15W40 in it, but I'll probably go back to a full synthetic 20W50 after the rebuild. We ride here in 100+ temps fairly often, so I think the 50 is a good idea. Concerning Norton's recommendation for a straight 50W oil, the Redline engineers told me several years ago that their 50WT race oil was really a 20W-50 equivalent in terms of viscosity change with temperature, and I notice they now mention on their web site that it is really a 15W50. Lots of good oils out there now that are fine for our old bikes.

Ken