I'm going to test my logic in the sentence below. The rest of my post is just delusional old guy talk. The prosecution may want it all stricken from the record.
Test sentence: If the motor is at TDC compression stroke for the cylinder on the timing side (right) and the mark on the rotor lines up with the TDC mark on the timing degree indicator tab, nothing is unique about the motor in the bike.
Close to off topic: If you don't have the timing degree indicator setup on the primary side, you might need a degree wheel and a piston stop or piston position indicator that screws into the spark plug hole to get things where they should be in order to set static timing. In the olden days I did static magneto points timing with a piston position indicator like below. Cave man stuff
Horse poop starts here:
If the mechanically inclined out there want a reasonably simple challenge, time a P11 for a Boyer ignition. The stator is mounted to the primary outer cover with no inspection hole and no helpful timing degree indicator anywhere. All you get are the marks on the alternator rotor (if you have a later rotor), which you can't see. Timing a Commando should take about 15 minutes. Timing a P11 takes some ingenuity. All the technobabble and overthinking in the world wont get it done.
I have an Atlas (P11) engine with a 2S cam in it. Yes it can be done. Nothing is different about setting up the timing from how it is done on a Commando except for the ingenuity part of figuring out how to do it. Point being, the keyway on the crank for the alternator rotor was not an insurmountable obstacle in my case. I have 2 timing pads on the rotor. I used a degree wheel and somehow figured out where to put the mark on the stator. It was a long time ago, and I actually don't remember how I did it. Probably took the primary cover off, mounted the degree wheel to the rotor, got the engine to 32 degrees BTDC, took the degree wheel off, removed the stator, guesstimated where to put that hole in the outer primary and drilled it, remounted the stator, remounted the outer primary cover, and marked the stator. Then took the outer primary off, removed the stator filed a line in the resin where I made the mark, then painted the mark, remounted the stator, and remounted the outer primary cover. When the marks on the rotor and stator are lined up, the timing is at close to 32 degrees advanced. The marks are wider than 1 degree, but it's all close enough to check timing. I've only strobed the motor once with the Boyer MkIII. I timed the Boyer MkIV without strobing it.
Hole plugged.
How does this help the Migsan? Doesn't
Migsan you don't need to respond to the above babble. It's writing therapy.
