- Joined
- Dec 13, 2017
- Messages
- 234
While I was writing , you beat me to it, I like your slogan, Sadly it's all too true.Wire the black box directly to your charged battery, bypass the bikes electrical system and try it
While I was writing , you beat me to it, I like your slogan, Sadly it's all too true.Wire the black box directly to your charged battery, bypass the bikes electrical system and try it
T140 boyer was our PM discussion... blue was an unfortunate misinterpretation as I knew also it was a mk4(analog) though you only partially quoted MEYes, so I don't know why DD mentioned "blue Boyer box"?
Put your volt meter on the BOYER power lead wire connection not the battery and or wire direct....as per seeley920Wire the black box directly to your charged battery, bypass the bikes electrical system and try it
T140 boyer was our PM discussion... blue was an unfortunate misinterpretation as I knew also it was a mk4(analog) though you only partially quoted ME
The fact that the OP has spent days trying to get an engine started tells us that he's not an accomplished mechanic. (NO disrespect) We've all seen & read it before: "Turns out it was XXXX all along!"starting fluid for the boyer?
He only has an occasional spark at the plug sitting on the head.
He is trying to make spark.....any spark regardless of timing.....
borrow t140 rotor TEST
borrow t140 boyer box TEST corrected sorry les
The original poster replied to Seeley920's question regarding the location of the points as being in the timing cover, not behind the barrel. His engine is newer than a '69!
If the Boyer is made for a '69, the rotor will be turning the wrong way if installed in the later style engine.
FWIW the boyer is not sensitive to direction. Only by placing the rotor mechanically in the correct position (cw or ccw) relative to the pickup coil appropriate to forward rotation of the drive.If the Boyer is made for a '69, the rotor will be turning the wrong way if installed in the later style engine.
spark"test, don't guess"
I have positive wire running continuously from the batery to the frame - engine head - positive side of the coil where the red wire from the boyer ignition is connectedBoyer box needs
+ from red battery ground direct if necessary
- 12v power from battery direct from battery if necessary
NEVER-ever let a coil fire unless plug or High Voltage wire is grounded.
Engine must be wired to red harness ground that goes to battery ground for spark return or it will eventually or already has killed the box.
Remove the spark plugs, put a teaspoon of gasoline in each hole, replace the plugs. Kickstart & report back.So after testing the spark through and through I can say I have a spark at every kick but has to be a vigorous one. maybe that's how it should be. The wiring on the bike is all new. The white wire is connected to the ignition switch and and I have a negative from the battery directly to the switch. Everything seems to work has it should with the ignition switch so I placed the spark plugs back in and primed both carbs. Gave it a couple of kicks with the ignition off and afterwards turn it on. I get a bang from the pipes like backfire at first kick. If I continue kicking I get smoke from the carbs intake hole and a bang.
I checked the timing over and over again and I don't see where I could got it wrong. Before all this I set the valve clearances as well.
The spark is doing it's job igniting the fuel right? so if I have smoke coming out of the carbs with a bang wont it mean the I am getting spark while the intake valves are open? how could this be?
Should I check the cams to be sure?
Thank you all for the help!
The fact that the OP has spent days trying to get an engine started tells us that he's not an accomplished mechanic. (NO disrespect) We've all seen & read it before: "Turns out it was XXXX all along!"
The fact that the thread is obsessing over precise timing being the cause of no-start is telling. It'll usually start & run (poorly) advanced or retarded.
Suggesting starting fluid to confirm/rule out a viable combustible mixture is a quick acid test I have used with great success for decades.
My mantra of "test, don't guess" stan
Remove the spark plugs, put a teaspoon of gasoline in each hole, replace the plugs. Kickstart & report back.
Yes I can try that and report back. ThanksI'd suggest trying to verify "test, don't guess" a spark every time you kick !
rather than
assume the ignition is OK (sounds like an ignition problem to me) and hope it will run
Does your triumph run? put the norton boyer box in the T140? "test, don't guess"