New project, but missing VIN plate

GraemeH said:
Pretty sure it's bad :eek::

View attachment 118098
Click to expand...
Easy job (for a fabricator).
Secure the frame.
Put the pinch bolt in, tighten it.
Put a big (24" +) adjustable wrench (add a pipe on it for leverage) just inboard of the fork tube, have a friend apply force in the clockwise direction on the fork tube (as depicted in this picture) while you apply force to the adjustable wrench in the same direction.
Check & repeat as necessary.
 
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GraemeH said:
Pretty sure it's bad :eek::
Click to expand...
Without heating, I don't think you will be able to rectify the yoke. Much easier to get another good one.

I am surprised you didn't notice the twist. It's rather evident. A level across the yoke is a necessary check. Never trust used parts!

- Knut
 
Still waiting to find lower yoke or fix bent one...

But got more bad news today when it was confirmed that my barrels are too rusty inside to bore. Was looking at liners from RGM but read somewhere here that 750 barrels cannot be bored to accept liners as it makes the walls too thin at the stud holes. If that is true why are liners made?

Also, can someone please help me understand the spigot? I guess this sticks out from the cylinder - does it then have to be ground off to make it flush? My original barrels have a flush joint.

Thanks

New project, but missing VIN plate
 
GraemeH said:
But got more bad news today when it was confirmed that my barrels are too rusty inside to bore. Was looking at liners from RGM but read somewhere here that 750 barrels cannot be bored to accept liners as it makes the walls too thin at the stud holes. If that is true why are liners made?

Also, can someone please help me understand the spigot? I guess this sticks out from the cylinder - does it then have to be ground off to make it flush? My original barrels have a flush joint.
Click to expand...
I had my N15CS barrels milled to work with a later Atlas non-spigot head. My thread got derailed into the liners topic, to my dismay. Lots of opinions. There is some info in the thread about the Commando valves being longer which could interfere when mixing and matching Atlas/Commando stuff, but mine was all pre-Commando

Have you picked up a spigoted barrel? Mine had 5/16 studs, if (I'm guessing here) you got a spigoted barrel with 5/16 stud holes you could mill the spigot and bore out the 5/16 to 3/8. But 'to measure is to know'.

Here is the thread but it's Atlas related, maybe some good info there. Definitely some complete bunkum too.

https://www.accessnorton.com/direct...-one-barrel-to-spigot-or-not-to-spigot.53691/
 
All the sleeves on RGM are "spun cast liner with spigot". I don't have a spigotted head. So I assume I need to look for non-spigotted liners?
Or I can see used +010 barrels in reasonable nick for €550 here so maybe that's a better option...
 
GraemeH said:
All the sleeves on RGM are "spun cast liner with spigot". I don't have a spigotted head. So I assume I need to look for non-spigotted liners?
Or I can see used +010 barrels in reasonable nick for €550 here so maybe that's a better option...
Click to expand...
AFAIK, no one offers +.010 pistons/rings these days so this barrels you found will probalby need to be bored.

In the US eBay, good barrels are available often (mostly Commando). I've bought Commando barrels for between $200 and $450 delivered that did not need to be bored and they sometimes include the tappets.
 
Unfortunately the shipping and import duty from the US makes that a much more expensive option. Will keep an eye on EU eBays.
 
marinatlas said:
I suppose (?) that you had checked through British Only Austria website , they could have used one ....
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Yes, that's actually where I got the kit bike from. He didn't have any Commando barrels. I have just received liners and pistons from Southern-Division in Germany though, so will deliver to the machine shop on Monday.

New project, but missing VIN plate


I also got new 2nd gear cogs and started building up the gearbox. Have a small doubt though - should there by o-rings in the grooves on the camplate and selector spindles? The parts manual doesn't show any. It also doesn't show a washer on the camplate plunger nut - should there be one?

New project, but missing VIN plate


Thanks
 
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Genuine Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
There are no o rings on the camplate /selector spindles grooves , but washers N°27 on both bolts and o rings under both two bolts as per above drawing .
 
GraemeH said:
All the sleeves on RGM are "spun cast liner with spigot". I don't have a spigotted head. So I assume I need to look for non-spigotted liners?
Or I can see used +010 barrels in reasonable nick for €550 here so maybe that's a better option...
Click to expand...
I think there is a misunderstanding here. The liner with spigot requires a groove to be machined in the barrel. The spigot is provided in order to secure the liner from dropping into the crankcase.
After installation (by thermal fit), the spigot and top deck of the barrel needs to be milled flat ("decked"). So, if you have a cylinder head for "non-spigotted" barrels, you are good to go.

In case you wanted to restore an original spigot, a very special liner is needed with a larger spigot (diameter and length). I doubt this kind of liner is available off the shelf.

- Knut
 
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Thought I was on a roller today and intended getting the gearbox back together - put new bushes in my sleeve gear, bought a fancy new torque wrench and started tightening the sleeve nut to 80ft/lb as required.... no clicks. Tightened it well up but decided that the gear was no longer moving freely. Then I noticed the torque wrench had a right hand symbol on it. Oh well, every day is a school day - I never knew they could work in one direction only.

Fought long and hard to undo the nut, even with the wrench set to 200Nm I struggled so it must have been very tight. Hope I haven't damaged the bearing.

Now off to see if I can exchange my wrench.

New project, but missing VIN plate
 
Well, this is all taking a lot longer and costing much more than I originally imagined. A quick update:
I never managed to get a non-buckled 06.1916 lower yoke, but found someone locally selling an unused MK3 frame that he'd inherited from a Norton importer. Certainly looks unused other that a few scratches from being dragged around concrete floors for some years. There is no VIN plate nor even drillings to fix one so I have no idea of the real history. It came with an upper ANG yoke as he'd lost the lower one, so I ended up having to buy a new lower yoke after all. Just need new stanchions now, but a least it all lines up properly.

I got a couple of new cogs to replace broken teeth in the gearbox and put it back together only to find the layshaft was quite bent and the main a little. Ordered new from RGM, but ordered the wrong mainshaft (a Manx one, so if anyone wants it let me know).

The machine shop finally put the sleeves in the barrels but were worried about cracks in the lower skirt. I have someone who will sort it somehow.

New project, but missing VIN plate


I should have them back next week, after 4 months...

In the meantime I've been rebuilding the wheels following some of the great posts on this forum. I have some questions though:

Can I make a rim band using an old inner tube or is that too thick?
Some of the spokes stick out by a couple of mm - do I just grind them down with a Dremel?
Should I treat the rust (I simply wire-brushed it so far)?
Should I worry about the grit I hear inside the rim when turning it?

New project, but missing VIN plate



Looking forward to starting on the engine rebuild soon...
 

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