New Commando owner

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CanukNortonNut said:
Nice Bike Pelican.
Change that fuel line if it’s hard as a rock. That color is an indicator. If its soft and pliable then no worry’s.
CNN 8)
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I use Tygon fuel line. Suppose to be VERY good stuff. Won't harden and is already yellow. :D
 
I ordered some the other day from the local honda shop...only mc shop around where I live. Think it was $15 in a preset 3' length.
 
I'm not sure? I just told them 1/4" fuel line...it's clear, could be generic :shock: Bout same price if I would've ordered and paid shipping somewhere. Hopefully my other rotor will come monday, and I can finish up the brakes already!
 
pelican said:
I'm not sure? I just told them 1/4" fuel line...it's clear, could be generic :shock: Bout same price if I would've ordered and paid shipping somewhere. Hopefully my other rotor will come monday, and I can finish up the brakes already!
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Tygon® F-4040-A Fuel & Oil Tubing.
Applications: Small engine fuel lines, general automotive, recreational vehicles, lawn and garden equipment, coolant transfer, heating fuels, cutting compounds, polishing equipment, lubrication lines . . .
Source: Tygon®, FLS3116-2M-0703-SGCS, 2003.
Features & Benefits: "Specifically designed to handle most fuels and industrial lubricants,Tygon® Fuel and Lubricant Tubing resists the swelling and hardening caused by hydrocarbon-based fluids.This significantly reduces the risk of failure due to cracking and leakage. Its minimum extractability safeguards the liquid or vapor being transferred against adulteration.
"Because it ’s extremely flexible,Tygon® Fuel and Lubricant Tubing simplifies installation, even in tight places.It is translucent yellow for positive identification and to allow easy flow monitoring.It is routinely used to handle gasoline, kerosene, heating oils, cutting compounds and glycol-based coolants." —Tygon®, FLS3116-2M-0703-SGCS, 2003. Also according to specs, this series is UV and light resistant, brittle resistant, resists swelling, and good for most petroleum products.
Do not use above 50 psi working pressure. Larger size and thinner walls should only be used no more than 15 to 20 psi working pressure. Durometer: 57 (shore-A @ 15 seconds). Maximum temperature: 165 °F or 74 °C. Standard length: 50 feet. Use fuel-oil hose or the push-on hoses for more demanding applications.
Updated: January 2004.
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Can't beat this crap. One less thing to worry about, as hardened fuel lines are a pain.
 
3/16"? The O.D. measures round .225....my calipers are too small to fit inside those little hoses
 
stupid question.... How many grounds can I run to the same point? I want to combine 2 grounds into one ring terminal, then put a ring terminal on the 3rd ground, and put both ring terminals on the same bolt... Is this too much, or will it be ok???


Oh, I got my cc bill today...Corbin charged me a hundred dollars for shipping! :evil: It better be the best seat ever :?
 
pelican said:
How many grounds can I run to the same point? I want to combine 2 grounds into one ring terminal, then put a ring terminal on the 3rd ground, and put both ring terminals on the same bolt... Is this too much, or will it be ok???
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It should be fine, as there shouldn't be any electrical item in the system that could potentially cause an overload (provided standard gauge wiring is used for the grounds) even if all the electrics were switched on at the same time (with the exception of a starter motor, and you don't have one fitted to your MkIII).
 
If I switch to negative ground will the mk3 assimilator still work? I searched past topics, and other people have asked...but never provided a definitive answer.
 
I
If I switch to negative ground will the mk3 assimilator still work? I searched past topics, and other people have asked...but never provided a definitive answer.
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Although I have never run a Norton on negative ground, the warning light assimilator (electronic or mechanical) is essentially a switch driven by the AC current from the alternator. Neither the AC current from the alternator, nor the "switch" side of the device cares (or knows) if the the positive or negative side of the DC system is grounded. Therefore, it should be just as happy on a negative ground system as a postive ground system.
 
New Commando owner


Installed my new rear brake today... I notice there is a gap here between the hub and sprocket... Even though the pic makes it look crooked it measures about the same all the way around with rotation of the wheel...both sides are as tight as I can get them. Should this be of concern, or can I leave it?
 
She looks real nice. Nice carb setup. probably much easier to keep in shape. Your right about the logo on the engine...Black looks much better. Get a tiny brush and out line it with gold 8)
 
pelican said:
Installed my new rear brake today... I notice there is a gap here between the hub and sprocket... Even though the pic makes it look crooked it measures about the same all the way around with rotation of the wheel...both sides are as tight as I can get them. Should this be of concern, or can I leave it?
Click to expand...


The gap is normal, and is necessary, otherwise the rear sprocket face and hub would rub against each other as the MkIII drive shock absorber (cush) operated under accelleration and braking.
 
Thanks... this is where I'm at now... want to get into my clutch, but almost all the screws are just about stripped, and looks like red loctite... gonna take a while to get the primary cover off...

New Commando owner


New Commando owner
 
now i could be wrong, but i arse-u-med the plastic cover on the rocker feed line went through the gear box cradle, i made a nice little wire clip with a grommet that bolts on at the manifold to hold it off the carb, nice looking example,judging by the timing cover screws almost a virgin :shock:
 
Not sure about the hoses...that's how they were when I got it, and it was running fine....


finally got the primary cover off!!! Three of the screws stripped out because they were in so tight. I had to drill the heads off and back them out. Should I be measuring the clutch stack height at the ID or OD? My ID is 1.1585" and my OD is 1.031" I'm thinking this is where the tough clutch pull is coming from.
 
pelican said:
Should I be measuring the clutch stack height at the ID or OD? My ID is 1.1585" and my OD is 1.031" I'm thinking this is where the tough clutch pull is coming from.
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Clutch stack info: http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html


If you've got it right, when you pull the clutch lever in, the force required to do so should actually be felt to drop off slightly, as the diaphragm clutch spring begins to go "over centre" (or into the "transition zone" = Atlantic Green).

Look at the chart on the Atlantic Green website, and see how the spring force begins to drop,-once the deflection reaches a certain point, so ideally that drop off point should be set to occur just after you begin pulling the clutch lever: http://atlanticgreen.com/ndnsclutch.htm
 
I bought this exhaust part because it was in the parts book, but as my bike did not have it installed I was wondering which way to insert. Is it only used on the balanced headers or all headers? The picture in the parts book doesn't show much detail.

New Commando owner
 
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