Mk3 Crankshaft Disassemble, clean Reassemble

p400

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Mk3 crank apart with 6" open and box end wrenches by hand.
Fairly clean inside.
Any tips before reassembly?
I have a new set of nuts/studs from AN in hand.
30ftlbs on nuts? how is this accomplished? what tools?


20230905_CrankDisassemble1.jpg
 
There are some good comments in this 2009 AN thread:

any tips on crank assembly?​

 
Mk3 crank apart with 6" open and box end wrenches by hand.
Fairly clean inside.
Any tips before reassembly?
I have a new set of nuts/studs from AN in hand.
30ftlbs on nuts? how is this accomplished? what tools?


View attachment 109656
You’ve basically got two choices: by / make attachments that allow use of a torque wrench, or do by hand with wrenches.

99.9% of all Norton cranks ever built, were built with wrenches.

If you put a bolt in a vice and tighten a nut onto it, and test it with a torque wrench, you will very quickly learn to calibrate the required torque by feel using wrenches.

Nothing wrong with going the torque wrench attachment route if you so wish, it’s just not really necessary.
 
Remember to use the flat plates - they're not, as some believe, to lock the nuts - they are to prevent the dowel
coming out.
 
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Remember to use the flat plates - they're not, as some believe, to lock the nuts - they are to prevent the dowels coming out.

The 850 Mk3 crank doesn't use them as it has an extra stud* (with washers) in place of the dowel.

*(Mk3 studs are 3/8" diameter)
 
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Also, according to the 850 Mk3 manual, "early dispatches" had a shouldered 7/16" diameter (3/8" threaded) stud.
Possibly all the 7th studs are shouldered 7/16" or there would have been two different Mk3 crankshaft assemblies?

 

?
The three dowel studs are all threaded 3/8" (UNF).

Only the 7th stud is shouldered 7/16".
The other two dowel studs are 3/8".
 
I torque them using home made offset adapters like the middle one in the picture below. This one os for torquing cylinder base nuts, but I've made similar ones for other sizes.

IMG_2561 1200.jpg


Similar wrenches available commercially, like the ones here from Mcmaster Carr

Torque Wrench Adapter 1.png



Also available from Amazon, just search for torque adapters. Or from Snap-On, etc.

Ken
 
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I guess you could use an ordinary spanner (wrench) on it, with its other end connected at 90 degrees to a torque wrench, by that end of the spanner sharing a long enough nut, or even a cut down piece of hex stock, with the torque wrench?
 
got out the new studs and nuts and I find 2 studs isolated as if that they are the two special studs used for doweling the crank cheeks.
Loosely fit all together.
Manual says Loctite 241 and 30 ftlbs.
I am planning on Loctite 243 .

Mk3 Crankshaft Disassemble, clean ReassembleMk3 Crankshaft Disassemble, clean Reassemble
 
I guess you could use an ordinary spanner (wrench) on it, with its other end connected at 90 degrees to a torque wrench, by that end of the spanner sharing a long enough nut, or even a cut down piece of hex stock, with the torque wrench?

Yeah, I've done that, but it's a bit more wonky to use than a purpose made tool.

Ken
 
I am planning on Loctite 243
I see the 243 is :
" medium-strength Blue threadlocker
  • use with 1/4″ to 3/4″ bolts.
  • temperature range maxes out at 360°F.
  • remove them with standard hand tools.
The fixture time is only 10 minutes, while full cure comes after 24 hours.

One major difference is that Loctite 243 comes with significantly improved oil tolerance. Even if your threads are a little dirty and oily, it’s not a big deal. No need to use any primers on plated fasteners either..."

 
The 850 Mk3 crank doesn't use them as it has an extra stud* (with washers) in place of the dowel.

*(Mk3 studs are 3/8" diameter)
Fascinating! I had a MkIII crank in MkIII cases in the race motor I built in 1975/76. I don't remember the '7th stud' at all. But that is what time does for you.

I now have a Maney crank in Maney cases. Steve didn't use the 7th Stud, he used a dowel, but he didn't drill the dowel size right through the webs, so the webs retain the dowel and you don't need the tabs.

He didn't use tabs washers at all, red Loctite, yes.

As mentioned elsewhere he also went to 12 point nuts later, as I have done, lock tabs would not be much use on those.
 
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