Losing Clutch Only at Certain Loads?

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70 ft/lbs is too much, there is a known error in the workshop manual, it should be nearer 45.
 
NjNortonCommando said:
Whaaaa! A misprint?! Dang it!
Remember to replace the (now mangled by excess torque) circlip on the mainshaft behind the clutch. :idea:
 
NjNortonCommando said:
I also opened the little window on the gearbox, initially it looked like this (this is an imgur image since I am not VIP on here, please cut and paste URL): imgur.com/a/0A6Yo . I adjusted the clutch pushrod so that arm inside the gearbox that attaches to the clutch cable was laying down as it ought to be with a tiny little bit of free play. Take the bike out and it kicks ass for a mile. Then same thing happens, push the bike home.

Correct me if I'm misinterpreting what you said above. You're stating that while looking through the inspection cover on the transmission, you are adjusting the clutch operating lever position. Since the clutch operating lever is secured by a clutch operating lever lock ring normally torqued, is it possible that your clutch operating clutch ring is not tight and loosening as you ride.

I had this happen to me on a ride earlier this year and it acts exactly like what you're describing. If you remove the inspection plate on the transmission, and that clutch operating lever lock ring is loose, it will quickly take all the adjustment out of your clutch just with engine vibration.
 
Hi guys, i'd like to ask a similar question regarding the clutch symptoms but I don't want to steer the thread off topic.
My Commando 850 is getting clutch slip in mid to high revs, I have recently replaced the cable and adjusted the clutch push rod and arm. Could I be experiencing the same problems as above? I read about cleaning the clutch plates by flushing Kerosene through the primary case for 10mins running time, would this help in any case? Really dont want to hijack the thread but thought it a smaller issue rather than start another topic.
Cheers.
 
wynston said:
Hi guys, i'd like to ask a similar question regarding the clutch symptoms but I don't want to steer the thread off topic.
My Commando 850 is getting clutch slip in mid to high revs, I have recently replaced the cable and adjusted the clutch push rod and arm. Could I be experiencing the same problems as above? I read about cleaning the clutch plates by flushing Kerosene through the primary case for 10mins running time, would this help in any case? Really dont want to hijack the thread but thought it a smaller issue rather than start another topic.
Cheers.
Read this: http://atlanticgreen.com/clutchpak.htm (The other link is busted Dave.... )
Best to disassemble, clean inspect, measure. Install a DynoDave pushrod shaft seal retrofit while you're at it.
 
Ken K said:
NjNortonCommando said:
I also opened the little window on the gearbox, initially it looked like this (this is an imgur image since I am not VIP on here, please cut and paste URL): imgur.com/a/0A6Yo . I adjusted the clutch pushrod so that arm inside the gearbox that attaches to the clutch cable was laying down as it ought to be with a tiny little bit of free play. Take the bike out and it kicks ass for a mile. Then same thing happens, push the bike home.

Correct me if I'm misinterpreting what you said above. You're stating that while looking through the inspection cover on the transmission, you are adjusting the clutch operating lever position. Since the clutch operating lever is secured by a clutch operating lever lock ring normally torqued, is it possible that your clutch operating clutch ring is not tight and loosening as you ride.

I had this happen to me on a ride earlier this year and it acts exactly like what you're describing. If you remove the inspection plate on the transmission, and that clutch operating lever lock ring is loose, it will quickly take all the adjustment out of your clutch just with engine vibration.

Are you talking about the mainshaft bearing retaining ring? :?:
 
sometimes either the basket or the hub splines get a groove (or notch) worn into them by the clutch plates. This can cause the clutch plates to hang up in that groove when you squeeze the clutch lever, so when you release the lever, your lever feels "dead" because the plates are hung up on the notch

OR it can work the other way too if your worn groove is in the basket splines (or hub splines) in the compressed plate position, you squeeze the clutch lever and you feel the diaphram unload, but the plates don't unload because they are hanging up in the worn notch in the spines, making it so you can't shift out of gear

With a notched groove in the splines, even powershifint without the use of the clutch may be impossible. Powershifting is revving the engine momentarily to shift when you feel the drive force on the gears unload momentarily as you go from accelleration to decelleration. I got my bike home by powershifing once when my clutch cable end snapped off in town...

funny story,... I thought I was stranded at first when my clutch cable broke. Then I realized I could push the bike to the onramp of the hiway, start it in neutral, then run along side while pushing the running bike to jump on and try to powershift into 2nd gear to limp home. I actually then powershifted into 3rd and then 4th to cruise home comfortably with no clutch at all and actually got it into neutral as I rolled in the driveway. I now carry an extra clutch cable wound up inside my headlight shell as a spare...

anyway, check your clutch hub and basket for notching... You might be able to take a file to the splines and soften any obvious notches to remedy the situation. A new basket and hub is pretty expensive HTH
 
Thanks all for your help and guidance, you guys are awesome!

I went to take the nut off and put it at 40 foot pounds with some loctite. I realized I didn't have the spring seated well. So, I took the clutch apart, properly torqued the nut, put it all back together with the spring seated nicely, and... the clutch worked great! Thank you all for the help and the responses.
 
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