Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain......

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

I've seen those pins take the alloy from the casing with them too. I've had to make oversized ones before a d drill out the case accordingly. I would suggest careful removal of the pin and inspection of the case / hole.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Triton Thrasher said:

Yes I've seen that pin bent.

Click to expand...

Fast Eddie said:

I've seen those pins take the alloy from the casing with them too. I've had to make oversized ones before a d drill out the case accordingly. I would suggest careful removal of the pin and inspection of the case / hole.

Click to expand...

Cheers for that. I did take it out with some heat ,don't know if it needed it or not but you were right Nigel. The hole in the cover is damaged. I've ordered a new pin but, I recon it will need doctored.

Pulled the T/S carb off the body seemed warped as the slide was sticking open. Got another 930 of a commando so will swap the bodies over but it needs a good clean. I think I'll get a hydrosonic cleaners and see if there as good as they're cracked up to be.

Photo bucket still not playing ball. Going to sort the wires tomorrow. Still doing a bit of reading homework.

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....






I know nothing about bonnevilles but after a bit of reading this bike has TR6 C yokes , getting parts tomorrow. '

Arthur Gaggs phoned to say my clock was ready, normally he only talked about golf , but today he asked if the clock was on the bike cos it was absolutely full of rust. Well worth the 115 to get it like new.

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Some ( a lot ) of those Have the Pear Cheek / flank , crank . Which is lighter . Or has the Same Inetia AT HIGHER REVS .



This is knactually the ' Thruxton ' Item .



W&S Valve Springs ( NORVIL ) are Actuall Jo Mo Co , progresive rate , centerless ground , Aircraft Quality . Shim @ .040 off @ full lift .

:lol: :lol: :lol:

The Proper ECCENTRIC Concentric Velocity Stacks Prevent the Ram Air pressurising the Float Bowls , leaning off the mixture , and melting bits .

If you have a Seven Mile Straight handy . :wink: :shock: :lol:

The NON Q.D. Axle is somewhat STRONGER . With big nuts you can tighten it up real hard. Too.
The 68 Has Durability Upratings from the 67 . The 69 is a ponced up 68 with a extra stripe & cheaper badges .

To Corner use your knees then throttle . Keep the elbows tucked in .

Keep it Below 90 in third . At First .
Cut Down real pre unit Big Bore Pipes about 28 in , with wassel Long Steel Meagas . . . , Er . MUFFLERS ! . With the perforated Baffles ,
Will have it Come on The Pipes , just past there . With a bit of Head Work . :shock:

Being Lighter and Stiffer than a Pre Unit , it should then see off a Z1 .
Be intrested how many holes those made in the Hedges in the I.o.M. , if they ever got there . :?

in short , the 68s the one Hele got at . To the detriment of Olde women .

Searching JoMoCo & Triumph service bullitens can help , as do 1 5/32 monoblocks or 1 3/16 concentrics . as per T120TT ,
if you must spend money .

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Cheers for that Matt, but I'm still at the "trying to get things to fit" stage . Tried to fit the new tank but the threads seem to be very tight. I'll speak to the supplier and maybe run a tap up the threads , as its an original tank I don't want to bugger the threads. The studs have flat ends are they U.N.C ?

Fixed the carbs the new (old body that came of a mando)body seems fine. Still waiting for bits to finish the electrics and fix the kickstart Spring. Photobucket has died.

Should be ready for the retest at the beggining of the week.

Jg

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv4qYcbB0zI

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

auldblue said:

Tried to fit the new tank but the threads seem to be very tight.

The studs have flat ends are they U.N.C ?

Click to expand...

How many TPI? I would expect the studs to be UNF, rather than UNC if it's a ('68?) - '69 - '70 tank.

http://www.nsamotorcycles.co.uk/21-1883 ... 6351-p.asp

So, what 'year' is the replacement tank supposed to be? If the tank is earlier then I think the thread would be CEI/BSC.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

L.A.B. said:

auldblue said:

Tried to fit the new tank but the threads seem to be very tight.

The studs have flat ends are they U.N.C ?

Click to expand...

How many TPI? I would expect the studs to be UNF, rather than UNC if it's a ('68?) - '69 - '70 tank.

http://www.nsamotorcycles.co.uk/21-1883 ... 6351-p.asp

So, what 'year' is the replacement tank supposed to be? If the tank is earlier then I think the thread would be CEI/BSC.

Click to expand...

Cheers for that Les. Tried 5/16 cycle last night no joy as for tpi could be 24 or 26 couldn't find my thread pitch gauge. Spoke to the supplier ,who is reputable and he said could be the plating. So gave the studs a good go with the wire brush on the bench grinder and they fitted with a good bit of lubing . I had the same thing with base nuts from Mick Hemmings when I did the top end of auldblue (so called because it was burning that much oil you couldn't see the traffic behind you) he ran a tap up them and they fitted easy.

When I put the dip switch on its still trying to power up both bulb filaments but the horn works now and so does the pilot bulb. And there is no kill button but it shows one on the manual. Am I short of a decent earth?

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

auldblue said:

When I put the dip switch on its still trying to power up both bulb filaments

Click to expand...

Not really enough information there to identify exactly where the fault might be.

auldblue said:

And there is no kill button but it shows one on the manual.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't have expected there to be a kill switch/button on a normal coil ignition (as opposed to a mag. or ET model) of that period so which particular version "manual" is it that are you using?

auldblue said:

Am I short of a decent earth?

Click to expand...

I don't know, but Triumphs of that period don't always have proper 'return' wiring so tend to make more use of the 'frame' as the earth/return.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Cheers les.
Dip switch power up.

Temporarily misplaced my multimeter.

Kill switch.

Triumph workshop manual...for unit construction 650cc twins inc t120.

The kill switch is for coil ignition machines "both appear identical externally but the internals are different".
It appears to be placed on the bars to the left of the brake perch.

Earth wires .

There are two earth wire at the yokes just hanging one is for the zenor diode . I'll see if the can go on the bottom yoke and see. If it improves things

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

auldblue said:

Triumph workshop manual...for unit construction 650cc twins inc t120.

Click to expand...

That narrows it down to about half a dozen different editions of factory "650 twin" manuals from around that period, so, which issue? Page? Drawing?

auldblue said:

The kill switch is for coil ignition machines "both appear identical externally but the internals are different".
It appears to be placed on the bars to the left of the brake perch.

Click to expand...

It's a 1970 model I believe, and according to the '70 riders manual the kill button was for "TR6C only" a competition model with, I think, ET ignition (will check).

Edit: By 1970, the TR6C had provision for conversion to 'capacitor ignition', rather than the ET system as used on the earlier comp. models.

auldblue said:

Earth wires .
There are two earth wire at the yokes just hanging one is for the zenor diode .

Click to expand...

Both wires should probably be joined together at the Zener heatsink ring terminal.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Cheers Les.


Book ref 99-0883/0889, PageH26. Section H16 . Fig H27 ignition cut out ("KILL") button. Tr6 and T120 models

Kill switch is shown on wiring diagram H34

Earth wires.

It seems to show only one at the ZD But I am frequently wrong.

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

auldblue said:

Book ref 99-0883/0889, PageH26. Section H16 . Fig H27 ignition cut out ("KILL") button. Tr6 and T120 models

Click to expand...

Ah, that.s more like it.

auldblue said:

Kill switch is shown on wiring diagram H34

Click to expand...

I think the kill button was more likely intended for the competition models (TR6C, T120C etc. ET or capacitor ign.).
If you look at the wiring diagrams, the only one to have a cut-out button is the ET diagram Fig. H35. Any cut-out for normal battery/coil ignition would be drawn between the ignition switch and the coils (white wire), and none of the other drawings has a cut-out, however, there's nothing to stop you wiring in a cut-out switch if you want.

auldblue said:

Earth wires.

It seems to show only one at the ZD But I am frequently wrong.

Click to expand...

The diagrams are simple schematics so aren't always 100% accurate as far as the actual wiring layout is concerned as they don't even show the return wiring, the electrical items are simply drawn connected to 'earth'.

You may find one loose wire goes into the headlamp and the other goes back in the direction of the battery as the Zener ring terminal is likely to be a junction for the two wires. If your T160 still has its original Zener return wiring then you will probably see two wires joined at the ring terminal.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Cheers Les

The kill switch can wait, need to get the lights fixed , tank and kickstart back on for the retest.

Got the dating certificate for the made on the 31/01/68 shipped on the 06/02/68 t120r. Thanks to Richard at TOMCC for his help.

Crank shaft for the Brexit bike sent to Norman White for a regrind along with an oil pump bought of eBay .





Tank sat on before it had studs fitted.

These carb tops are butchered and no adjusters on the throttle cables.



Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Still trying to sort out the wiring ,put connectors on the reg/rec and tightened up the battery connectors . Found the multimeter so will try to find the fault on the dip.



Fitted the reconditioned tachometer looks good . Gaggs of Nottingham est 1900. Cost £115 plus postage.

Washed out the fuel tank but it has some rust going to do it with frost tank cleaner, but I'm going to see if it will do as is with no liner. The rest of the parts didn't arrive today so still no gearbox cover fit.

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Carb tops look ok to me!

You will need cable adjusters somewhere though.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Triton Thrasher said:

Carb tops look ok to me!

You will need cable adjusters somewhere though.

Click to expand...

Cheers for that thrasher. It was the fact the trek screws were used instead of blanking plugs and the cable holes were outsized to take the throttle cables, but as you say the adjusters are on the cables. So I stuck one back on as the slide was too far up with the adjusters . Seems ok and with a bit of lube in the cables the twist grip snaps back quicker than a rat trap in a bakery.

Had another go at the wiring but I am totally missing something , when I flick the dip switch the lights go out and the ammeter drops down of the scale and with a wiggle the lights come on . I am going to get some pro assist if my mate has finished moving in with his girlfriend .

Hope my spare parts arrive tomorrow.

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

auldblue said:

the cable holes were outsized to take the throttle cables,

Click to expand...

Triumph throttle (and choke) cables should have a ferrule (6/132A) that fits the hole.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/cable-ferrule.html

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Cheers les

The cables have the top hats fitted to the carb side of the cables and do indeed sit in the carb lids. I ordered a set of two into one cables and a twist grip to suit.

It must be me with the horn/dip switch cos both seem to be defective but when I reverse the wires on one the horn works of the dipper, mind you I am no auto electrician but is seems after having wired a couple of commandos without any hassle that those wee switches need a bit of finess .

Still no other parts, when Mick and Angela were on the go and RGM most parts arrived next day. Bollocks...I thought this would be a quick fix but this thread is getting like War and peace, at this rate fast Eddie will have his new engine build and I will still be fanning about with a dip switch.

Jg

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

auldblue said:

It must be me with the horn/dip switch cos both seem to be defective but when I reverse the wires on one the horn works of the dipper, mind you I am no auto electrician but is seems after having wired a couple of commandos without any hassle that those wee switches need a bit of finess .

Click to expand...

It shouldn't be difficult, but due to the lack of detailed information about the type of switch or exactly what it is you are doing, it makes it nearly impossible to suggest what or where the apparent fault is.

Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....

Cheers les

Wiring harness number 54955256/57095 new Lucas, headlight toggle switch....lu31788 5pole, Lucas type switch 31563 clamp on wire colours , blue/white, blue, red/black, brown. The headlight is H4. Ammeter in headlight shell .

When the switch is on dip no power to bulb, when on main power to both main and dip beam.