It followed me home!!

Kicked it 6 or 7 times throttle closed
Had a couple of murmurs
Then flicked the chokes off and after a couple of kicks it fired and ran for a couple of seconds
Then nothing
So chokes back on I kicked a few times and nothing
So I flicked the chokes off again and with a couple of kicks it fired into life ,it was just about to stop when I flicked the two outside chokes on
I kept them on whilst it was warming up then turned them off
Once warm it was fine
And restarted fine without chokes once it was warm
It's doing exactly what my t160 does
But as said with mikunis on my trident you have to open the throttle with the choke on or it just won't start ,but with an electric start it's not been an issue
Seems normal with kickstarting, as my 920 Commando fitted with CRs won't fire on choke unless I open the throttle a little. On the other hand my Hinckley Trident won't fire if I open the throttle when cold starting.
 
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Kicked it 6 or 7 times throttle closed
Had a couple of murmurs
Then flicked the chokes off and after a couple of kicks it fired and ran for a couple of seconds
Then nothing
So chokes back on I kicked a few times and nothing
So I flicked the chokes off again and with a couple of kicks it fired into life ,it was just about to stop when I flicked the two outside chokes on
I kept them on whilst it was warming up then turned them off
Once warm it was fine
And restarted fine without chokes once it was warm
It's doing exactly what my t160 does
But as said with mikunis on my trident you have to open the throttle with the choke on or it just won't start ,but with an electric start it's not been an issue
Three seperate levers?
Tied together with a rack?
Cables?

If it wants a cracked throttle, so be it, just a small amount.

There are variables for the enrichener as well that might not have been sized right.

Are these 28mm Miks?
 
Three seperate levers?
Tied together with a rack?
Cables?

If it wants a cracked throttle, so be it, just a small amount.

There are variables for the enrichener as well that might not have been sized right.

Are these 28mm Miks?
28 mm miks.
Individual choke levers on both bikes
 
That's a bloody good idea
I remember a mate of mine fitting one of those to his jetski
On the rotary valve Rotax snowmobile engines, a "first pull" start.
When some genius at Ski-Doo went to enricheners only, we weren't amused. 😡
 
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How does that primer kit work then ?
It tees into one of your fuel lines into the pump
Then straight into the manifold via a drilling from memory
Although my carbs are already drilled near the manifold rubber mount
Another option I guess would be to connect to the carb overflow?
It's just a small plunger pump so it should prime in a couple of pumps?
I've not used one as yet
 
It tees into one of your fuel lines into the pump
Then straight into the manifold via a drilling from memory
Although my carbs are already drilled near the manifold rubber mount
Another option I guess would be to connect to the carb overflow?
It's just a small plunger pump so it should prime in a couple of pumps?
I've not used one as yet
A drilling, small brass tube pressed in.
Some carbs are factory equipped with the brass tube. (Also used to sync the carbs)
 
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A drilling, small brass tube pressed in.
Some carbs are factory equipped with the brass tube. (Also used to sync the carbs)
The drillings on my carbs are a bit random so we're probably done by a previous owner
They look like 4 or 5 mm screws I'll check later
I have several sizes of balance tube tails
What do you think of my idea of connecting to the float bowl over flow?
 
The drillings on my carbs are a bit random so we're probably done by a previous owner
They look like 4 or 5 mm screws I'll check later
I have several sizes of balance tube tails
What do you think of my idea of connecting to the float bowl over flow?
Nope.
Send the gas directly into the carb throat, engine side of the slide
 
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I think it would cause problems if ever your float bowl does overflow…
It will be ineffective. The Amal flooding works because of the location of idle circuit, by design.
You might already have the dimple for primer drilling location.
It followed me home!!
 
Well maybe
But amal MK1s don't have an overflow pipe
True, but I know from experience that whilst Japanese carbs are generally superior instruments, they are FAR more sensitive to dirt. I’ve had Keihin and Mikuni carbs piss out of the overflows before due to dirt on the float needle. Whereas Amals will pass gravel without so much as a murmur !
 
True, but I know from experience that whilst Japanese carbs are generally superior instruments, they are FAR more sensitive to dirt. I’ve had Keihin and Mikuni carbs piss out of the overflows before due to dirt on the float needle. Whereas Amals will pass gravel without so much as a murmur !
OTOH, I've been using them for 51 years, in dirt bikes & ATV's, never had a problem with "dirt" in the carb.
Most troubles were from long term layup without preparation (neglect) and then "self inflicted wounds", DPO's mangling stuff trying to "fix" or "clean the carb".

I never had anythung BUT Miks & Keihins on dirt bikes. Point of reference.
 
OTOH, I've been using them for 51 years, in dirt bikes & ATV's, never had a problem with "dirt" in the carb.
Most troubles were from long term layup without preparation (neglect) and then "self inflicted wounds", DPO's mangling stuff trying to "fix" or "clean the carb".

I never had anythung BUT Miks & Keihins on dirt bikes. Point of reference.
Dirt in the fuel was my issue ie aluminium dust / residue. More like powder than dust, so fine, but still enough to cause float needle unhappiness.
 
True, but I know from experience that whilst Japanese carbs are generally superior instruments, they are FAR more sensitive to dirt. I’ve had Keihin and Mikuni carbs piss out of the overflows before due to dirt on the float needle. Whereas Amals will pass gravel without so much as a murmur !
Yep I've found exactly the same with mikunis
 
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