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I found this colorful oil hose diagram. Easy to follow.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=72+ ... ajaxhist=0
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=72+ ... ajaxhist=0
I'm a newbie wishing to know what I have. (2013)
- Thread starter joel1
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joel1 said:
The "engine breather" on your '72 model differs in that it would normally connect to a breather assembly bolted to the rear of the drive side crankcase and the "oil tank breather" is not exactly the same as shown in the diagram.
More information:
https://www.oldbritts.com/oillines.html
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The oil tank breather I am going to reroute as I don't think I am going to use smaller individual air filters that probably screw in to the carb intakes. Aftermarket.
So the oil tank breather hose will need to get re routed elsewhere. Either back into the system or a longer hose reaching down near the earth?
So the oil tank breather hose will need to get re routed elsewhere. Either back into the system or a longer hose reaching down near the earth?
grandpaul
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Very basic wiring harness. Simply disregard the lights and you can have the bike running. If you don't want tail light always on (some states allow?) connect what is marked as black wire to switched side of light switch, instead of keyswitch.
Shown with EI...
Shown with EI...
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Cept the BALLAST RESISTOR , Switch ( if a old spider in the corroded contacts one , and even the fuse may be supurflous , as regarrds SPARK & Test Fire Up .
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/709 ... -48-45.mp4
The two jars of metalflake are the Most Important !
Tho youll regret it if you never paint it all silver with an orange seat, believe me .
Also Long Term , reduced to its individual components - CLEANING THEM , and reasembly might have it bettern new .
Auto Adv Mech. ? if its stuck / sticky - dont run it long , and use your HEEL & BOOTS . They Can Launch or is it lunch you .And the big ends .
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/709 ... -48-45.mp4
The two jars of metalflake are the Most Important !
Tho youll regret it if you never paint it all silver with an orange seat, believe me .
Also Long Term , reduced to its individual components - CLEANING THEM , and reasembly might have it bettern new .
Auto Adv Mech. ? if its stuck / sticky - dont run it long , and use your HEEL & BOOTS . They Can Launch or is it lunch you .And the big ends .
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Sorry if this has already been answered somewhere in this thread but since you have a Combat head is it safe to say the rest of the engine and related parts are Combat and you intend to restore it that way?
You may have already read up on the Combat spec bike that was set up for optimal performance stop light to stop light however most folk wouldn't think of them as a performance cruiser since it's performance only seriously kicks in when revved towards its upper limits.
It also came with a 19 tooth gearbox sprocket which required decent cruising speed to be at a pretty high rpm.
My bike came to me as a Combat and I did a number of things to bring it closer to standard spec, which is still stump pulling torque with very impressive overall performance.
I put a decompression plate (Old Britts) under the barrel to lower compression closer to stock, switched out the Amals for a Mikuni VM36 with single manifold, swapped the 2S cam for a stock cam and replaced 19 tooth gearbox sprocket with 21 tooth one.
Not advised to change just one item towards stock since they all work as a system. Amals could stay but would probably need rejetting.
Other stuff Pazon Sure Fire electronic ignition Mikes SX breather and a lot of misc.
You may have already read up on the Combat spec bike that was set up for optimal performance stop light to stop light however most folk wouldn't think of them as a performance cruiser since it's performance only seriously kicks in when revved towards its upper limits.
It also came with a 19 tooth gearbox sprocket which required decent cruising speed to be at a pretty high rpm.
My bike came to me as a Combat and I did a number of things to bring it closer to standard spec, which is still stump pulling torque with very impressive overall performance.
I put a decompression plate (Old Britts) under the barrel to lower compression closer to stock, switched out the Amals for a Mikuni VM36 with single manifold, swapped the 2S cam for a stock cam and replaced 19 tooth gearbox sprocket with 21 tooth one.
Not advised to change just one item towards stock since they all work as a system. Amals could stay but would probably need rejetting.
Other stuff Pazon Sure Fire electronic ignition Mikes SX breather and a lot of misc.
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L.A.B. said:joel1 said:
Yes, a bracket attached to the air filter assembly.
grandpaul said:
Keyswitch---ballast resistor----coil(-)--coil(-) if using original 6V coils.
That key and switch in the picture looks like what I have. The switch has 3 terminals. The key has two positions. On and off. I suspect that is original.
equipment. Last night I made a parts purchase from Oldbritts.com. Rider foot pegs, and wiring harness #54960723. I inquired about a boyer IV electronic ignition quote as I did not see that listed as one of their products for sale. So I am waitng on the quote.
Im so undecided on the electric matter that I chose to just go for it and purchase a wiring harness.
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joel1 said:
It would be correct for your 137260 (1970) frame's electrical system, however, the ignition parts you showed us previously were for the 1971-on electrics which had a 4-key position switch and various other detail changes.
joel1 said:
Which harness did you order, as it seems you may have a jumble of parts from two different model years that had different wiring layouts and switches?
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joel1 said:
Fair enough. It looks as if you will be mainly wiring it as a '71-on model then. As long as we know, we can deal with it.
Did you order the front (headlamp) harness section, as you will need that unless what you have is in good condition?
Which type of handlebar switches do you have?
A pre-71 would have had a single Wipac Triconsul switch unit on the left side of the handlebar, a '71-on would have had a Lucas switch cluster on each side.
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L.A.B. said:
I believe the control switches say Lucas on them. I will have to double check.
I did not order any of the headlight harness section. I need to.
However, I have questions regarding the headlamp bucket that I have.
The bucket I have has the following....
one instrument guage
one toggle switch
one ammeter
With no other holes except two mounting holes and wiring harness holes.
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