Identify part

BritTwit said:
Cliff,

Sorry, I don't recall.
You can get the original O-ring to work though.
Just use a piece of dowel through the strainer body and cap while you spin the cap on to keep the O-ring centered as the cap is tightened down. Of course these means removing the hose from the cap first.
I was able to take my O-ring to an auto parts store and have a salesperson find a replacement slightly thicker with larger diameter.
It worked great, no problems, and don't have to use the dowel when spinning on the cap.
Next oil change I guess I should measure the thing for forum members.:oops:
Click to expand...
No problemo BritTwit. I was just trying to be prepared :rolleyes: I'd like to keep the original clips if I can as they are neater than hose clips in my opinion. I have a box of 0-rings and you can bet your life I won't find one to match when I get it apart - haha, but if I do strike lucky I'll post the dimensions.
 
Yeah, the pinch ring clamps look much better than typical hose clamps.
Pinch clamp kits aren't expensive to buy, I got one for about $30.
Came with several different size clamps and a pair of pliers.
 
The standard double eared clips are Mikalor 15-18
I dont have any problems with the O ring in the inline filters....but I do have to remove the filter fully to properly reassemble it. I test to see if they hold vacuum before refitting.
 
BritTwit said:
Yeah, the pinch ring clamps look much better than typical hose clamps.
Pinch clamp kits aren't expensive to buy, I got one for about $30.
Came with several different size clamps and a pair of pliers.
Click to expand...
I don't always mean to be different , BUT you can keep those pinch clamps , I don't care for installing or de-installing them ! A set of high quality/properly sized screw clamps I will choose every time .
 
Tony,
I believe in: to each his own.
There is no performance benefit to one type or the another.
But like Cliffa, I too like the clean/neat look of the pinch clamps.
 
BritTwit said:
Tony,
I believe in: to each his own.
There is no performance benefit to one type or the another.
But like Cliffa, I too like the clean/neat look of the pinch clamps.
Click to expand...
Screw clamps can come loose and also be over tightened.
Exactly why auto and cycle manufacturers don’t use them anymore.

I like Oetiker clamps, the double ear are one time use and the step lock, tooth lock are reusable.
 
Thanks for the info on the Oetiker clamps. I have nothing against hose clamps ( if they are correctly sized) but in this case as the filter is so prominent I think the “ear” clamps as they are known here look neater.

Anyway yesterday I checked our local version of McMaster Carr and their web shop said they has 147 in stock, so I disconnected the banjo and left it draining while I jumped on my Himalayan to collect some. When I get there they don’t have any !! Grrrr.
Back to the garage and I took the filter apart. It’s actually pretty well made inside with a machined recess in the lid for the O-ring, and a recess on the lower body for the filter flange to sit in and make a flush surface. The existing O-ring is 22mm (OD) x 1.6mm but I found a flat silicone washer in my stash which measures 25 x 19 x 3mm And decided to use that instead. It was a little tight but has sealed the filter. I think the fact the the filter is at an angle makes the chance of mis-assembly more likely, so Stu’s method is spot on.
 
Voodooo said:
Screw clamps can come loose and also be over tightened.
Exactly why auto and cycle manufacturers don’t use them anymore.

I like Oetiker clamps, the double ear are one time use and the step lock, tooth lock are reusable.
Click to expand...
It will be down to price the type that gets used.
Ear clips will be much cheaper than Terry clips.
 
I'm not sure silicone and engine oil go together well. Silicone hoses are usually fluorolined. Viton is more suitable, which I suspect the original seal to be.
If removed, when you look through the filter you can see if the micromesh filter has moved from its very shallow recess as the tops been screwed back on. But yes, a vac test before refitting to the bike has worked for me. Something they should have applied as a procedure at Norton, given how many leaked from new.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
I'm not sure silicone and engine oil go together well. Silicone hoses are usually fluorolined. Viton is more suitable, which I suspect the original seal to be.
If removed, when you look through the filter you can see if the micromesh filter has moved from its very shallow recess as the tops been screwed back on. But yes, a vac test before refitting to the bike has worked for me. Something they should have applied as a procedure at Norton, given how many leaked from new.
Click to expand...
Thanks Stu, actually I presumed it’s silicone, but looking into it further it seems it’s thermoplastic elastomer (TPE). Not sure that’s better or worse than silicone.
 
cliffa said:
Thanks Stu, actually I presumed it’s silicone, but looking into it further it seems it’s thermoplastic elastomer (TPE). Not sure that’s better or worse than silicone.
Click to expand...
I bought some silicon fuel lines from a show a while ago and they soon degraded and went hard so I suppose there's silicon and there's silicon. I had a REALLY annoying oil leak which I finally tracked down to the inline filter seeping down the pipe, over the pump and off the sump plug. Trying to get the mesh filter lined up in the housing is almost impossible in position as Stu says so I bent a paper clip into a sort of W shape around the filter which does not impede flow but holds the filter central when tightening it. A new O ring 19mm ID and 1.8mm dia seems to work. It does catch a bit of metal so I am loath to remove it.
 
TonyA said:
If you remove the check valve , you will get wet sumping .
Click to expand...
Hi Tony,

this os not 100% right.

Ollie has checked and tested more then 20 oilpumps for leaks on a test bench

The most oil is goingt thru the hole which Mr. Skinner has installed the valve

A lot of oil is also giong thru the shaft from the pump into the engine and some oil is coming from the radiator back to the sump

The leaking is depent from the quality of the oilpump

Big tolerances -> wet sumping

Small tolerances -> normal leaking

The little valve brings a new problem

In high revs the pressure in the pump is getting to high (the small valve inhibits the oilflow) so the overpressure valve wil open and the oil route will not work propperly

This is the result of the undersized non return valve

The best result is to dismount the shit and install Ollie´s version on a non return valve in the oilfilter housing

The flow rate of the big valve is much higher and the problem with the overpressure valve is also fixed

My bike has after 3,4 weeks always a full oiltank

I hope now is more clear
 
TonyA said:
Yes understood. A very good explanation also , Thank You. I also had the problem with my old pump that oil was leaking past the check valve but much slower with the check valve in. With my new oil pump , no more wetsumping.
Click to expand...
Tony,
A Norton that doesn't wet sump, can you really still call it a Norton?;)
 
Panetone said:
Hi Tony,

this os not 100% right.

Ollie has checked and tested more then 20 oilpumps for leaks on a test bench

The most oil is goingt thru the hole which Mr. Skinner has installed the valve

A lot of oil is also giong thru the shaft from the pump into the engine and some oil is coming from the radiator back to the sump

The leaking is depent from the quality of the oilpump

Big tolerances -> wet sumping

Small tolerances -> normal leaking

The little valve brings a new problem

In high revs the pressure in the pump is getting to high (the small valve inhibits the oilflow) so the overpressure valve wil open and the oil route will not work propperly

This is the result of the undersized non return valve

The best result is to dismount the shit and install Ollie´s version on a non return valve in the oilfilter housing

The flow rate of the big valve is much higher and the problem with the overpressure valve is also fixed

My bike has after 3,4 weeks always a full oiltank

I hope now is more clear
Click to expand...
Hello Panetone , I don't see the oil check valve on Ollie's website. I will email him.
 

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