Identify part

TonyA said:
All 961 engines will benefit from the oil strainer. It picks out oil tank debris from welding and manufacturing. Especially beneficial if you have a check valve.
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I also recommend the Sifton/V Twin manufacturer oil screen. I have purchased one a couple months ago. The oring is better and the magnet is a very nice benefit.
 
TonyA said:
I also recommend the Sifton/V Twin manufacturer oil screen. I have purchased one a couple months ago. The oring is better and the magnet is a very nice benefit.
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Thanks - the other option I was considering is from PINGEL. I’ll reinstall this weekend; can’t hurt.
 
BritTwit said:
Here is a photo that shows what the check valve looks like pressed into the oil pump housing.

Identify part
Hosted on Fotki
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I can’t open the Fotki link.
 
City Garage said:
We stock the Norton version if anyone needs one.
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I have had no problems with the Norton oil pre-filter . But I do agree that the o-ring is real easy to misalign . I don't want to beat this to death but I appreciate you feedback. Free oil flow is important , here is a link to the V Twin Manufacturing/Sifton part , This is the one I ordered and is marked with a oil flow direction IN :

www.googleadservices.com

V-Twin Manufacturing Oil Pre-Filter 3/8

www.googleadservices.com www.googleadservices.com
 
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TonyA said:
I have had no problems with the Norton oil pre-filter . But I do agree that the o-ring is real easy to misalign . I don't want to beat this to death but I appreciate you feedback. Free oil flow is important , here is a link to the V Twin Manufacturing/Sifton part , This is the one I ordered and is marked with a oil flow direction IN :

www.googleadservices.com

V-Twin Manufacturing Oil Pre-Filter 3/8

www.googleadservices.com www.googleadservices.com
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No this is a really important for the oil issue. It was also the root cause of the failed lifters and oil pump on that 961 we have talked about before. The oil pressure sensor is set so low that you wouldn't know you have an issue until its done its damage.

FYI - We use the V-Twin one on other applications but everyone needs to know the mesh is a not as fine but will still filter larger debris. The fuel based filters are not for oil/ Also it should be pointed out like you have that the proper filter is a 3/8 not 5/16/
 
The other piece that was removed (and I have no idea how to reinstall) is the black plastic box air/oil separator……
 
The inline filter was specced and supplied by Micromesh, the same company that supplied the later revision airfilter.
The inline filters only job is to protect the check valve, as fitted as standard from around 2018 or retro fitted as part of tsb#00014, from foreign debris.
 
Hooligan67 said:
The other piece that was removed (and I have no idea how to reinstall) is the black plastic box air/oil separator……
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If your bike had the OITA fix there are a few parts that you need to install to have the fix work properly.
One is the air/oil separator, but you also need the check valve on the return oil line from the oil cooler.
Do have this check valve installed?
I will see if I have the OITA installation memo pages for the separator and return check valve.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
The inline filter was specced and supplied by Micromesh, the same company that supplied the later revision airfilter.
The inline filters only job is to protect the check valve, as fitted as standard from around 2018 or retro fitted as part of tsb#00014, from foreign debris.
Click to expand...
I like the idea of having the check valve in the oil pump . If it could be done like the one from Thiel (threaded in to the outlet side of the oil pump and larger diameter etc). This would be easier to service /replace and Norton can do this from the factory. I also am of the view that wet sumping should not have to be tolerated , or at the very least not cause you to have to drain and refill your oil. Let me put it into perspective : When my bike was delivered (Dec. 2014) it would wet sump the entire oil tank into the crankcase within 6 hours or less , probably closer to 4 hours ! Next morning my oil tank was DRY not a drop of oil in there , all in the bottom.
 
BritTwit said:
If your bike had the OITA fix there are a few parts that you need to install to have the fix work properly.
One is the air/oil separator, but you also need the check valve on the return oil line from the oil cooler.
Do have this check valve installed?
I will see if I have the OITA installation memo pages for the separator and return check valve.
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Hello BritTwit , You are on top of this great . Lets not forget that in the case of the newer bikes the oil return was changed to return the oil above the level of oil in the oil tank. This eliminated the need for the return side check valve that our bikes need. BUT it was pointed out by David Coote that the reason for the return down low in the oil tank was to minimize aeration of the oil in the tank.
 
Gojuu said:
So, if my bike just plain doesn't have one, I'm guessing this thread is telling me I should?
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I would like to ask you some questions :
What year is your bike ?
Do you get oil in your air box after riding long distances ?
Does your bike wet sump oil from the oil tank to the sump when parked for a period of time ?
If you can answer NO to the last two questions then you are good as you are .
But it can't hurt to know what revision your bike is at currently.
 
Hooligan67 said:
The other piece that was removed (and I have no idea how to reinstall) is the black plastic box air/oil separator……
Click to expand...
Here is a link to an old thread: Crankcase Breather Kit
It has all of the pages from the factory kit installation memo.
As Tonya stated, there were changes to newer 961's that eliminated the need for some of the kit components.

Crankcase Breather Kit

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely discuss this with my dealer when the kit comes in. Tony, Richard thanks again. Fred
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
TonyA said:
I like the idea of having the check valve in the oil pump . If it could be done like the one from Thiel (threaded in to the outlet side of the oil pump and larger diameter etc). This would be easier to service /replace and Norton can do this from the factory. I also am of the view that wet sumping should not have to be tolerated , or at the very least not cause you to have to drain and refill your oil. Let me put it into perspective : When my bike was delivered (Dec. 2014) it would wet sump the entire oil tank into the crankcase within 6 hours or less , probably closer to 4 hours ! Next morning my oil tank was DRY not a drop of oil in there , all in the bottom.
Click to expand...
Tony, my issue was similar.
However, it would take a few days for the oil to migrate to the sump.
When I started my bike, enough oil would be pushed to the airbox, that I would almost immediately see flow from the airbox overflow hose.
The OITA fix completely eliminated the issue.:D
 
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