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TonyA said:
I like the idea of having the check valve in the oil pump . If it could be done like the one from Thiel (threaded in to the outlet side of the oil pump and larger diameter etc). This would be easier to service /replace and Norton can do this from the factory. I also am of the view that wet sumping should not have to be tolerated , or at the very least not cause you to have to drain and refill your oil. Let me put it into perspective : When my bike was delivered (Dec. 2014) it would wet sump the entire oil tank into the crankcase within 6 hours or less , probably closer to 4 hours ! Next morning my oil tank was DRY not a drop of oil in there , all in the bottom.
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And yet, Ive had other older generations of 961 that have very little work its way down to the sump, even after weeks of being sat around. Maybe just sort of the tolerance inconsistencies in the oil pump first before anything else.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
And yet, Ive had other older generations of 961 that have very little work its way down to the sump, even after weeks of being sat around. Maybe just sort of the tolerance inconsistencies in the oil pump first before anything else.
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YES Stu , You are correct ! I had to replace my oil pump and glad I did ! At least we could get an oil pump back then ....
 
Stu Bodycote said:
And yet, Ive had other older generations of 961 that have very little work its way down to the sump, even after weeks of being sat around. Maybe just sort of the tolerance inconsistencies in the oil pump first before anything else.
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Yes they are horrible in tolerance.
 
Gojuu said:
So, if my bike just plain doesn't have one, I'm guessing this thread is telling me I should?
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Depends on how much crap is floating around your oil tank. We have had bikes that have had multiple oil changes with zero contaminates in the online filter and we have removed them. Those are also bikes we installed a oil pressure gauge to confirm consistent oil pressure.

If you haven’t checked your oil pressure with a gauge it might be an eye-opening experience and also you can confirm that the relief valve is working properly as well
 
Good call on the relief valve....Ive had those sticking before. The hydraulic lash adjusters are a quicker indicator of low oil pressure than the pressure switch lol. You could change the switch for the same style but a different pressure rating...its a pretty common design, with cars and bikes.
 
I first noticed the mesh filter at the launch of the anniversary models late in 2017.
My bikes on 27k now & I still ain’t got one ! , my oil bottle collects very little, half full now after 2000 miles , I only seem to notice any oil on a long run over 5500 /6000 , so there ?
Identify part
Identify part
 
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I rode a Domi SS around on test for a bank holiday weekend, for that rework. Took it from Derby to Whitby and back one day for fish and chips.....bloody Domi seat pad about broke me lol. But yeah, I have some personal resentment to the rework as such based on that alone haha
I get the odd bike come in, that just pulls better, runs quieter and behaves as it should. ..every now and then the planets naturally align and you get that one exceptional motor. The rework would have undoubtedly been a much cheaper band aid repair over improvements to component tolerance consistency.
 
So on my bike:
  • Its a 2015 Sport.
  • It has the oil air separator, and I assume it was fitted after because its fitted up close to the barrel rather than more back towards the airbox
  • It had the two ports on the rocker cover looped together.....and I assumed that was also due to the install of the separator. I've now blanked them.
  • Nothing in the oil cooler return. Doesn't have this screen.
  • It will turn over 10000 k's any day now.
  • It doesn't get oil in the airbox (a teaspoon at most?) and the throttle body was clean and oil free when I pulled it off to change it, I've never emptied the catch bottle, and it has under 10mm in it.
Should I look towards fitting the screen?
 
Gojuu said:
So on my bike:
  • Its a 2015 Sport.
  • It has the oil air separator, and I assume it was fitted after because its fitted up close to the barrel rather than more back towards the airbox
  • It had the two ports on the rocker cover looped together.....and I assumed that was also due to the install of the separator. I've now blanked them.
  • Nothing in the oil cooler return. Doesn't have this screen.
  • It will turn over 10000 k's any day now.
  • It doesn't get oil in the airbox (a teaspoon at most?) and the throttle body was clean and oil free when I pulled it off to change it, I've never emptied the catch bottle, and it has under 10mm in it.
Should I look towards fitting the screen?
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Do you wet sump ? Just curious . If it was me I would add a pre-filter screen , if only because you may have a check valve in the pump ? That was installed during the Oil in Airbox service if I remember correctly and as was said before it shouldn't hurt if done correctly .
 
Gojuu said:
  • Nothing in the oil cooler return. Doesn't have this screen.
Should I look towards fitting the screen?
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Its on the intake line for the oil pump not the oil cooler side. And as Tony said it doesn't hurt. its an added safety crap wont get into the oil pump/check valve
 
City Garage said:
Its on the intake line for the oil pump not the oil cooler side. And as Tony said it doesn't hurt. its an added safety crap wont get into the oil pump/check valve
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Sorry, I've explained that poorly. It doesn't have the screen/black cylinder as pictured. Brittwit mentioned "If your bike had the OITA fix there are a few parts that you need to install to have the fix work properly.
One is the air/oil separator, but you also need the check valve on the return oil line from the oil cooler." So I meant that I don't have anything in the return line either.

@TonyA no, the bike hasn't wet sumped. But, I do ride it pretty regularly, it simply may not get the chance....?
 
If it aint broke, dont fix it...just enjoy it as it is.
Also you cant really assume that the rework has been carried out, based on just a few external visuals....Ive seen plenty of a part reworked bikes. To be sure, just unbolt the oil pump and see if the check valve has been fitted, to know if the rework has been done in its entirety.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
If it aint broke, dont fix it...just enjoy it as it is.
Also you cant really assume that the rework has been carried out, based on just a few external visuals....Ive seen plenty of a part reworked bikes. To be sure, just unbolt the oil pump and see if the check valve has been fitted, to know if the rework has been done in its entirety.
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But drain your oil before removing the pump!!
 
Gojuu said:
Sorry, I've explained that poorly. It doesn't have the screen/black cylinder as pictured. Brittwit mentioned "If your bike had the OITA fix there are a few parts that you need to install to have the fix work properly.
One is the air/oil separator, but you also need the check valve on the return oil line from the oil cooler." So I meant that I don't have anything in the return line either.

@TonyA no, the bike hasn't wet sumped. But, I do ride it pretty regularly, it simply may not get the chance....?
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The reason for the return line check valve was also wet sumping. The oil from the tank would run back into the sump through the oil cooler and oil pump . This valve is easy to buy and easy to install. A definitive check for wet sumping would be to let the bike sit for a whole week without riding and check how much oil is left on your oil dip stick.
 
City Garage said:
But drain your oil before removing the pump!!
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You'd need to drain the oil anyhow, as top banjo removal is required on the oil pump to gain proper access to the top m6 bolt. You could get a long reach ball ended 5mm allen socket in there, but its not good practice.
 

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Once you've removed the pump, the Norton fitted check valve is easy to spot. Ive circled it here in red.
 

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BritTwit said:
The leaking strainer is the fault of the O-ring used.
It's the wrong size to the job, too thin.
I sourced a thicker O-ring and have had no problems since.
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BritTwit, I don't suppose you know the dimensions of that O-ring do you? (My filter is also weeping after a recent oil change).
 
cliffa said:
BritTwit, I don't suppose you know the dimensions of that O-ring do you? (My filter is also weeping after a recent oil change).
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Cliff,

Sorry, I don't recall.
You can get the original O-ring to work though.
Just use a piece of dowel through the strainer body and cap while you spin the cap on to keep the O-ring centered as the cap is tightened down. Of course these means removing the hose from the cap first.
I was able to take my O-ring to an auto parts store and have a salesperson find a replacement slightly thicker with larger diameter.
It worked great, no problems, and don't have to use the dowel when spinning on the cap.
Next oil change I guess I should measure the thing for forum members.:oops:
 
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