Identify part

Ollie Thiel is also in the "not a fan" camp, he offers a much larger non return valve that fits after the pump, in the oil filter housing inlet.
A bit of a pain to install his one but it looks a much better idea.
 
Yeah seen it, much better solution.
For me, I'm more old school.....if its wet sumped, deal with it accordingly. Unfortunately this doesn't suit many nowadays, that just want to turn key, hit start and ride.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
Yeah seen it, much better solution.
For me, I'm more old school.....if its wet sumped, deal with it accordingly. Unfortunately this doesn't suit many nowadays, that just want to turn key, hit start and ride.
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Then they should have made the dipstick easier to remove!! :) Modern motorcycles shouldn't wet sump is the problem. You expect an early norton to sump but not modern.
 
Just because its fairly new, doesn't make it modern. Its an old design principle, with injectors instead of carburettors.
 
Stu Bodycote said:
And here's the check valve that the inline filter is there to protect. As you can see, it reduces the original 10mm drilling down to 2mm, with a ball bearing in that 2mm orifice as well. I'm not a fan.
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That’s frankly shocking.

You don’t have to be some kind of Norton nut to think that, a restriction of that size on the feed to the pump is just big, huge, plain, freakin’ WRONG.
 
Ollie has made a solution with a different big valve on an other place, so the small shit is not longer needet.
The smal shit is very dangerous for the engine.

Panetone
 
Stu Bodycote said:
Yeah seen it, much better solution.
For me, I'm more old school.....if its wet sumped, deal with it accordingly. Unfortunately this doesn't suit many nowadays, that just want to turn key, hit start and ride.
Click to expand...
So for the uneducated among us, what does the 'deal with it accordingly' mean? Any sort of procedure we should do?
 
Stu Bodycote said:
Just because its fairly new, doesn't make it modern. Its an old design principle, with injectors instead of carburettors
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Stu Bodycote said:
Drain it off, and then top up the oil tank. Just as you would have years ago in a wet sump situation.
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My 961 since having the check valves and oil screen installed , no longer wet sumps . I did need to replace the old leaky oil pump though . This is a few years ago now , and worth the money I paid for it. When I say leaky , oil would still pass slowly through the pump before the check valve. The check valve is at the feed side output of the pump and oil would bleed across to the bottom end through the oil pump before the check valve. I am sure Stu can explain it better , but my bike is has NO wet sumping .
 
The oil pump cost me about $300 USD and I was happy to pay it . Of course , if my bike would have have the good pump from the beginning and the check valves and oil screen ! But I wouldn't know what I know now :confused:
 
OK, embarrassingly, I had to google wet sumping and what this is all about. I'm primarily from the car world and having a wet sump is normal in my car engines, with dry sumps being a rarity in that world for me anyway. Got it now. So keep an eye on the oil level. If it has dropped, eg over winter, drain off and top up...don't just top up!
 
Vernon240 said:
OK, embarrassingly, I had to google wet sumping and what this is all about. I'm primarily from the car world and having a wet sump is normal in my car engines, with dry sumps being a rarity in that world for me anyway. Got it now. So keep an eye on the oil level. If it has dropped, eg over winter, drain off and top up...don't just top up!
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Haha, you didn't need to Google. Find a comfy chair then just do a search on here in the "Classic" Commando section for "wet sump" . The reading material will while away a rainy day (or week) :)
 
BritTwit said:
Speak of the devil oil strainer:

I had sometime today to take a look at my oil strainer that has been leaking for months/years. Not really sure how long it was leaking because I first thought the leak was the sump gasket. Probably leaking since 2016 when I had the oil in airbox fix and the strainer was originally installed.

I must say that the internal design is simple and the single O-ring supplied is problematic at best. The strainer has a 20mm flange at top that sits on the face of the strainer body, without an O ring beneath it. The O ring supplied sits on the top of the strainer cage flange between the flange and the strainer body screw on cap.

The strainer flange is 20mm in dia. The O-ring is larger in outer diameter and perhaps 19mm inside dia. So it is virtually impossible to insure when screwing on the cap that the O-ring will remain in position on the strainer flange. I’m sure the designer thought the design was cool because it only needed 1 O-ring. Hell that must save at least 2 cents.

The O-ring is smaller than the internal diameter of the strainer body, so when you screw the cap back on, the O-ring is free to move out from under the cap in any direction and not seal the strainer flange to the inside of the cap. I suspect this is the problem area.

I reassembled by strainer carefully and hope that that will fix the leak, but there must be a better inline strainer design out there than this one.



View attachment 72419Hosted on Fotki

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Found an oil strainer that should be a good replacement , I’ve not tied it but will do at some stage, mine just started leaking.

It has a 40 mesh screen and magnet. Sifton 40-0387.

do your own research. Buyer beware etc.

V-Twin Manufacturing Oil Pre-Filter 3/8&Prime, Barb 40-0387
by Partsopedia Inc
Learn more: Amazon product ASIN B009N23J5E
 
I just got my bike back from the shop after having: gaskets replaced, transmission vent kit installed, spark plug wires replaced (CNW) plus a few other “issues” resolved..
However, the mechanic removed the oil strainer (which was leaking) and didn’t reinstall it. He said I didn’t need it. Should I be worried and/or reinstall it, albeit with either the one suggested above or another alternative?
 
Hooligan67 said:
I just got my bike back from the shop after having: gaskets replaced, transmission vent kit installed, spark plug wires replaced (CNW) plus a few other “issues” resolved..
However, the mechanic removed the oil strainer (which was leaking) and didn’t reinstall it. He said I didn’t need it. Should I be worried and/or reinstall it, albeit with either the one suggested above or another alternative?
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If your bike had the oil-in-the-airbox fix installed, then you'll need the strainer.
The fix included the small check valve in the oil pump.
The strainer prevents small particles from clogging the check valve.
 
The leaking strainer is the fault of the O-ring used.
It's the wrong size to the job, too thin.
I sourced a thicker O-ring and have had no problems since.
 
BritTwit said:
If your bike had the oil-in-the-airbox fix installed, then you'll need the strainer.
The fix included the small check valve in the oil pump.
The strainer prevents small particles from clogging the check valve.
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Airbox was filling with oil, so I don’t think the fix was done (2014 Sport). Will there be issues by having the strainer removed and not reinstalled?
 
Hooligan67 said:
Airbox was filling with oil, so I don’t think the fix was done (2014 Sport). Will there be issues by having the strainer removed and not reinstalled?
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It's strange that you had the strainer installed on your bike, this was not standard on a 2014 model. The factory only started installing the strainer as part of the oil-in-the-airbox (OITA) fix in response to owner complaints later on in production.
To be certain, you should have the oil pump pulled to look for the presence of the pressed-in check valve.
If you have the check valve, then you need the strainer in place.
 
Here is a photo that shows what the check valve looks like pressed into the oil pump housing.

Identify part
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