How bad is it?

Thanks I will try to get it off. New seal is already on the list to order today.

I got the spacer off the shims came with it and look to be in bad shape, one is stuck to the spacer. I guess new shims are added to the list

So I got all the parts this week and started on replacing them all today, everything went ok. I set the gap for the rotor/stator and I think I got it spaced good enough. I can slide a .010 feeler gauge in ok all around it. (I can actually get up to .014 before it gets to tight.) checked that I am getting a charge.(14.6 volts) thats good. started it up and seen a lot of smoke from the crankcase side after about 2 min. (hopefully oil on the pipe) so I open the crankcase and ever thing looked ok. If i had a problem with the gap would I have seen a problem right away after a 5 min run of the engine? or will it take longer?

If everything is located correctly and tightened correctly, it all should stay there and be good for life - knock on wood.
Happy riding....

Hi blipJC.
Did you ensure the spacer between rotor and sprocket is correctly oriented so the rotor is fully seated?
Ta.

the only way the rotor/stator gap will be good when the engine is running is if the rotor is well centered on the crankshaft when the gap is set up. If you have your rotor/stator gap well adjusted now, slowly rotate the engine and check the rotor/stator gap in the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions to make sure. If the gap doesn't change much, you are pretty well centered and well spaced, so you are good to go.

Is this too obvious to mention?... I didn't mean the comment to be condescending....

Yes I checked the spacer and is good. It all seems to be cantered ok I checked the gap all around and was pretty much the same everywhere. I even rotated the engine and it rotated freely with the feeler gauge in all places. I am probably just being paranoid about it. Now I went and reset the timing and it will pop at the very bottom of the kick stroke but won't run. I probably set it wrong with my old makeshift degree wheel. I will try and re-set it correctly in the morning and let you know.

There is another thing to be aware of. When you fit the outer primary cover and tighten the central bolt, if the shims on the big stud that secures the inner and outer chain case aren't correct the case can distort and close the clearance for the rotor. I take trouble to get rear chain case fitted accurately with appropriate shims. I also use a spacer in place of the outer cover put the nut on and tighten the central mounting bolt so that the chain case is in the same situation it will be in when fully assembled. Then fit the alternator and check your clearance. You can use a large 1/2" drive socket as a spacer.

Ian