How bad is it?
- Thread starter blipJC
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Well if it was tight on one side I would think it would happen in that time frame.blipJC said:
Also, that rotor should clean up just fine. They are somewhat indestructable. If it hangs by the tip of a screwdriver, it should work as new, which it is I guess.
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Wow that stator and that rotor look like toast to me! In this case I think 'toast' is a pretty good technical term!
What I would like to know is how that rotor was put together. So instead of throwing the rotor away, could you heat it with a torch and melt all that zinc off then take some pictures to show how the rotor was put together? Supposedly that is a welded type of rotor and I would like to see how that was done. If you don't have a torch that would melt that zinc away, you can send it to me and I will do it. I did that with an earlier type rotor and posted pictures of it not too terribly long ago. I would like to do a comparison between the early and later type rotors.
What I would like to know is how that rotor was put together. So instead of throwing the rotor away, could you heat it with a torch and melt all that zinc off then take some pictures to show how the rotor was put together? Supposedly that is a welded type of rotor and I would like to see how that was done. If you don't have a torch that would melt that zinc away, you can send it to me and I will do it. I did that with an earlier type rotor and posted pictures of it not too terribly long ago. I would like to do a comparison between the early and later type rotors.
o0norton0o
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Yup, the rotor is history. The picture shows the crack in the rotor
My bike had this issue to a lesser degree. IMO, your rotor stator gap was very bad, so once your rotor got turning, it melted your stator by friction with it. The fact that there is no adjustability built into the mounting system is the problem. You can't just bolt the stator up and go ride.
I believe the rotor is on a tapered shaft, so there's no way to alter it's position on the crankshaft. (it's been a while since I solved my bike's charging issue so I am going from memory)
I mounted the rotor and stator, then rolled the engine over slowly observing the gap. I marked the stator's mounting holes with a sharpie on the sides where I would have to elongate the holes to adjust the stator's position to even the gap. I think I used a dremel tool of some sort and gingerly ground the holes and alternately remounted to check the new gap until it was good.... It's worked for flawlessly since... (over 20 years)
My bike had this issue to a lesser degree. IMO, your rotor stator gap was very bad, so once your rotor got turning, it melted your stator by friction with it. The fact that there is no adjustability built into the mounting system is the problem. You can't just bolt the stator up and go ride.
I believe the rotor is on a tapered shaft, so there's no way to alter it's position on the crankshaft. (it's been a while since I solved my bike's charging issue so I am going from memory)
I mounted the rotor and stator, then rolled the engine over slowly observing the gap. I marked the stator's mounting holes with a sharpie on the sides where I would have to elongate the holes to adjust the stator's position to even the gap. I think I used a dremel tool of some sort and gingerly ground the holes and alternately remounted to check the new gap until it was good.... It's worked for flawlessly since... (over 20 years)
o0norton0o
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ewgoforth said:
thanks for that info. I hesitated tweaking the mounting studs lest I break the casting on the inner primary. It seems to me that the rotor SHOULD be centered to run true.. How can it run true without being centered?? That's the reason I suposed that I needed to adjust the stator, and not the rotor... (hopefully, that seems clearly stated)
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A couple of observations.
It looks like one of the timing marks on the rotor was rubbing on the timing indicator.
Just wondering if the rotor was beginning to walk off the end of crankshaft.
Also looks like a slight bulge on the rotor above the crack. Might just be a casting flaw.
Were you able to get the rotor free of the crankshaft?
It looks like one of the timing marks on the rotor was rubbing on the timing indicator.
Just wondering if the rotor was beginning to walk off the end of crankshaft.
Also looks like a slight bulge on the rotor above the crack. Might just be a casting flaw.
Were you able to get the rotor free of the crankshaft?
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Best case scenario is that the crank end is ok...
A
Anonymous
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Hi blipJC.
Were the primary to case screws loose? as the front screw locking plate is not correctly located in the guides (see last photo).
Ta.
Were the primary to case screws loose? as the front screw locking plate is not correctly located in the guides (see last photo).
Ta.
Not that I am aware of, I will have to check on that. I did notice that the keyway on the crankshaft looks very shallow and wonder if the rotor started to move and work its way loose as I and others have noticed it looked like the rotor was hitting the timing indicator plate.
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Anonymous
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Aha blipJC.
1. If the primary case came loose then the timing indicator would move away from the rotor.
2. If the rotor came loose it would move toward the indicator.
3. If the rotor expanded (due to heat caused by friction) due to air gap misalignment, could the rotor 'grow' to touch the indicator?
Keenly awaiting your next instalment.
Ta.
1. If the primary case came loose then the timing indicator would move away from the rotor.
2. If the rotor came loose it would move toward the indicator.
3. If the rotor expanded (due to heat caused by friction) due to air gap misalignment, could the rotor 'grow' to touch the indicator?
Keenly awaiting your next instalment.
Ta.
the bolt was not loose but wasn't overly tight either and the case didn't seem loose to me but I am now suspicious of the crankshaft keyway. It looks as if the one side may have been sheered a little or there are some zinc off the rotor imbedded in it (but prolly not).
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