How bad is it?

Danno · May 7, 2015

Looks like part of the Woodruff key is still in the keyway.

Anonymous · May 7, 2015

Hi blipJC.
I reckon that may be the actual key (or half of it).
Q4. Is it the cause of the failure or a result?
...next gripping episode please.
Ta.

blipJC · May 7, 2015

If it has broken and is is still in there what would the best method be to remove it?

pete.v · May 7, 2015

needing said:
Hi blipJC.
I reckon that may be the actual key (or half of it).
Q4. Is it the cause of the failure or a result?
...next gripping episode please.
Ta.

I have got to know, needing, if the key sheared how could this have possible been that cause?

Serve me up.
Be sure to offer up the link to your answer that you googled.

Danno · May 7, 2015

In the last photo, I can see a small gap at the outboard end of the keyway. You might try a fine flatblade screwdriver or a pick (scribe) and pry straight out on the axis of the crank to lever the broken piece out.

Danno · May 7, 2015

If the screwdriver you're using is no wider than the keyway, you might also try tapping it into the gap at a pretty shallow angle to the crank axis which may wedge the broken piece out. The keyway itself is a shallow semi-circle at the bottom, as is a proper Woodruff key.

Anonymous · May 7, 2015

Hi blipJC.
As the key is now level (or looks to be in the photo) you can remove the sprocket then drift the key out.
Ta.

blipJC · May 7, 2015

Okay. I have never been this lucky in my life. I taped it with small chisel and it popped right out.

Danno · May 7, 2015

Now you're ready to clean that mess up and bolt up the new rotor and stator. Don't forget to order a new key also.

Anonymous · May 7, 2015

Danno said:
Now you're ready to clean that mess up and bolt up the new rotor and stator. Don't forget to order a new key also.

Hi blipJC.
Ditto above but the primary case screw lock washers (at least one that I can see) will need to be turned and locked correctly.
Ta.

blipJC · May 7, 2015

Thanks for the help. I will keep you updated when I get the parts and install them.

PeterJoe · May 7, 2015

blipJC said:
I got it off. Used a puller and taped it with a hammer. Came off pretty easy.

I noticed that several people selling that Wassell alternator rotor claim that it is a superior design over the earlier alternator rotors by stating that they have a welded center like the new and improved Lucas rotor. From looking at the internal part of your rotor where the zinc broke away, the internals look identical to the rotor I took apart (shown below - which is an old Lucas design). So what's welded? I know that the original one had a hub made from a solid piece of hex bar stock. Why on earth would anyone want to do any welding there? I just don't get it.

I have read from other sources that the magnets themselves were welded to the hub on the later Lucas rotors. But now I wonder if even that is true.

Anonymous · May 7, 2015

Hi PeterJoe.
Re your: "...I have read from other sources that the magnets themselves were welded to the hub on the later Lucas rotors. But now I wonder if even that is true..."
Heat destroys magnets so I would have to agree with equal wonder.
Ta.

Hobot · May 7, 2015

Hm maybe the welding term is relative and more like silver solder. IRRC our rotors use Samarium Cobalt which is good over 700 F and almost as strong as the neo super mags. British cycle parts and innovations tend to deserve their poor reputation cute as they may be. Btw might put a mic on the crank end turning to verify our prayers.

Anonymous · May 7, 2015

Hi hobot.
IRRC ?????
Ta in advance.

johntickle · May 8, 2015

Small remark when looking at the picture: the spacer between the sprocket is fitted the wrong way around. The "shoulder" has to face the sprocket, not the rotor.

mschmitz57 · May 8, 2015

johntickle said:
Small remark when looking at the picture: the spacer between the sprocket is fitted the wrong way around. The "shoulder" has to face the sprocket, not the rotor.

Does the spacer orientation have any affect on the rotor-stator alignment?

toppy · May 8, 2015

mschmitz57 said:
johntickle said:

Small remark when looking at the picture: the spacer between the sprocket is fitted the wrong way around. The "shoulder" has to face the sprocket, not the rotor.

Click to expand...

Does the spacer orientation have any affect on the rotor-stator alignment?

As the sprocket fits on a taper depending on the size of the sprocket bore and crankshaft the exact possition or the sprocket relative to the shaft will be affected. The relief in one side of the spacer is there to make sure that it doesn't foul on the step in the crank but presses against the sprocket only. If the sprocket fits low enough on the taper to overhang the shoulder fitting the spacer the wrong way around will not matter but if it does not then the sprocket will not be driven hard onto the taper and will work loose under load.

blipJC · May 8, 2015

Going to order new parts today. If the spacer is the wrong way is it as easy as just removing it and reinstalling it correctly?

mschmitz57 · May 8, 2015

Yeah, just flip it around. It should pop right off. Might be a tight fit.
Might want to order a new rubber O-ring seal for the primary cover too if it's old.

How bad is it?

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