Fractured Exhaust Pipe

When we were taught welding techniques, we were told not to weld across the grain. I know you have to ] as with the photo above] several stitch welds down the grain, will help stop it breaking in the future. You only have to examine Mercedes shift levers to see where they join 2 pcs together to make the whole lever, they don't weld across but weld down the sides / edges. They don't break either.
Now that is not going to look good on an exhaust, but what the hell. if you want it to last you have to make it industrial, If you want it to look pretty, buy a new exhaust, but as the guys from RGM told me today, You are not going to guarantee a perfect fit with a new exhaust. You just have to be lucky they say every Norton Commando is different , if so how the hell can the exhaust manufacturers make pipes that fit every commando. [ Houston there is a problem ]
Dereck

Very nice repair.

A nice skilled show off tiddy compact bead that may be a bit too good for this type-area repair [reflect on BMW method] as moves the stress fatigue zone further out-next to the new bead but should work for many 1000's of miles and if starts to crack again just return to the good welder again who will make another nice repair. Btw ya can buff out rust like this for non chrome shiny that will appear more as thermal tinted finish rather than just decayed.

I got sick of stock type muffler is cracking and eventually ordered a set of stainless pipes from Epco. It took nearly 8 months to get them but I like them. Sadly now one has started to crack in the typical place just beyond where it slides over the header pipe but being stainless at least rechroming won't be needed. I'm thinking of reinforcing the area but worried that would just move the stress point and crack again. Any thoughts? I'm not experienced with welding thin stainless so it will be getting done by a local guy who seems to.

Biscuit said:

Yes, that is a very sanitary weld. looking at it though, and again at the photo first posted, I realized you pipes and mine (MK3) are different. Mine are of one diameter along their full length straight into the head, and your example appear to be of smaller diameter, then expand at the head.

Click to expand...

I never noticed the flange difference before.
These pipes were from a Mark 2 with the black cap mufflers if I remember correctly.

Bob Z. said:

These pipes were from a Mark 2 with the black cap mufflers if I remember correctly.

Click to expand...

Was that a Mk 2, or a Mk 2A ?

They look to have the part conical seat rings that the Mk 3 used in the exhaust ports. (And Mk 1A and 2A ??).
Gives the pipe a small amount of seating movement in the port, presumeably to prevent stressing it.
Without air leaks...

Rohan said:

Bob Z. said:

These pipes were from a Mark 2 with the black cap mufflers if I remember correctly.

Click to expand...

Was that a Mk 2, or a Mk 2A ?

They look to have the part conical seat rings that the Mk 3 used in the exhaust ports. (And Mk 1A and 2A ??).
Gives the pipe a small amount of seating movement in the port, presumeably to prevent stressing it.
Without air leaks...

Click to expand...

Yes, conical seating arrangement is the same, it's the expansion before the flair I'm wondering about.