Fractured Exhaust Pipe

Rohan · Apr 9, 2015

It would be a real contortionist of a welder that could successfully weld under and behind that location ?!!

The chrome definitely needs to be lightly ground off in that region, or the weld may well not stick.
The fumes won't do the weldee any good either if not attended to...

Also, the electrics on a fully assembled bike are somewhat at risk, you never know what might get zapped or be fried.

Hobot · Apr 9, 2015

the handful of Arkansas welders in muffler shops to hi end machine shops i've sought out for very similar and worse repair are all quite capable of handling that easy to access already held in place little header crack and waste of effort to hardly bother with much prep either. A tough tricky tedius job is rebuilding a mower muffler with rusted out end seams and pipe junctions, no chioce as that shaped muffler not sold any more. Wire feed can be extended to reach into tight and hidden spots so could get back on road fast and cheap if not following worry wart 'wisdom'. You'd have a hard time talking welder into turning on tig gas for such a straight forward task or charge a lot extra for the gas flushing for just a few moments of use.

Rohan · Apr 10, 2015

Perhaps thats why we don't have so many running bikes on the road, perchance ??

Bernhard · Apr 10, 2015

Rohan said:
It would be a real contortionist of a welder that could successfully weld under and behind that location ?!!

The chrome definitely needs to be lightly ground off in that region, or the weld may well not stick.
Also, the electrics on a fully assembled bike are somewhat at risk, you never know what might get zapped or be fried.

+1
If doing it whilst it is on the bike;
You will l have to disconnect the alternator, (because it is earthed) and the battery.

Bob Z. · Apr 10, 2015

I'll bet that when dis-assembling that exhaust system for welding, that crack will get bigger!

A lot of twisting effort usually needed to unstick the cross-over tube.

Hobot · Apr 10, 2015

Ya don't have to worry wart about EMF spikes bothering ignition systems running or dissconneted with electric welding in exhaust area or about anywhere esle. As alerted just above - It'll be a more simiple quick job to do on bike than risk more cracking and realigning to remove and refit. The risk is weld splatter so some alu foil and tape is handy sheilding. The tube is not rusted away and there's a robust bead to flow some bead onto to help nail down flex fatique again for a long time as ya can stand opinions of non perfect non brand new appearance but gooder than new functionally. Down-dirty welding by riding to shops has kept my craft going on rough stuff - like reenforcing cracked off rear loop with just seat removed and some sheilding also rebuiding the kick stand lug. Muffler shop is the specialist for this rider's simple scab up repair.

YellaPeril · Apr 10, 2015

This is an easy repair. I would probably braze it (silver) with the Oxy-Ace torch rather than MIG or TIG it. A 10 minute job in my garage.

Biscuit · Apr 10, 2015

Holy crap, are there no simple forum questions that don't eventually go off the deep end? A GOOD welder is going to want the part off the bike, cleaned of rust and clamped to his bench. Lot's of people can "weld" but a lasting repair takes talent. DO NOT BRING IT TO ARKANSAS! And do not tell the welder how to do it. Pete.

Rohan · Apr 10, 2015

Biscuit said:
Holy crap, are there no simple forum questions that don't eventually go off the deep end?

Indeedy. This is where the skill set of the assembled throng come into view.
Its a worry....

Rohan · Apr 10, 2015

I would probably braze it (silver) with the Oxy-Ace torch rather than MIG or TIG it. A 10 minute job in my garage.

If you'd said oxy weld it with iron (steel) filler wire, you'd have been on a winner.

But silver braze is a low temp solution.
At night, climbing a long steep hill, that pipe would be glowing mildly red hot, or beyond,
ABOVE the melting point of silver braze. Hello crack, you're back....

Ron L · Apr 10, 2015

milfordite said:
" So which local dealer would that be in the Cincy area??

Ha! I had the same thought, Bill.

I went through 3 sets of balanced pipes from Mike Partridge at Walridge in Canada, before the owner gave up and went with 750 style. I can't say if any of those were made by Harris, but they all were made in England. The balance pipes weren't even close to mating.

I would try to repair the originals and re-chrome or find a used set and re-chrome before going through that nightmare again.

Does anyone have firsthand experience with balanced Harris pipes?

pete.v · Apr 10, 2015

FreeRadical said:
I've got a date with a welder tomorrow. We'll see how it goes! :wink:

Well? How was you date?

Opinions may vary but I hope you don't spend too much on that repair. Sorry to be pessimistic, but as you say, that sucker is fractured, not to mention old and brittle. A crack may or may not be repairable, but repairing that "Fracture" may get you down the road another 100 miles but I would have a hard time calling it reliable, no matter how proficient your welder is. Also, at the top of the fracture, it appears to be spider webbing out in 2 or 3 directions.

High Heat.
High Vibration.
High Pressure.

Your money might be better spent on going toward a new set.

Sorry if I'm tardy.

Anonymous · Apr 10, 2015

I suggest replacement with single headers (even if it is only to give the tacho drive cable a fighting chance).
Ta.

Biscuit · Apr 10, 2015

needing said:
I suggest replacement with single headers (even if it is only to give the tacho drive cable a fighting chance).
Ta.

Right on about the tacho drive, Would not want to spend my life, no matter what protection the factory gave me, up against an exhaust pipe. :lol:

Fast Eddie · Apr 11, 2015

mike996 said:
I much prefer the balanced pipe to the early pipes on my 850. Having switched to the balanced for the first time a few months ago, I would not willingly go back to the single pipes so I would recommend you have it repaired. As noted, it CAN be done. It's not easy to find a balanced pipe set; I had been looking for two years before finding a NOS set on ebay. I'm told that Viking makes them on order and I was thinking about enquiring about that when the NOS set popped up.

Mike,
Interesting statement you make there the balanced pipes being better. Can you explain what's better please, more power, quieter, smoother etc?

FreeRadical · Apr 11, 2015

My "date" went well. The motorcycle mechanic was able to refer me to an experienced TIG welder a block away who had recently come out of retirement. Too bored sitting at home, I think! He was confident that he could fix the pipe and it's only gonna cost me 30 bucks. I'm picking it back up on Monday. I'll post pics of the finished work.

Kevin

milfordite · Apr 11, 2015

I'm currently running a set of balanced pipes made by Viking. They are holding up well, the only complaint being that the pipes size is a bit small and the mufflers are a loose fit requiring a thin shim.

FreeRadical · Apr 15, 2015

I got the header pipe back from the welder. The cross-pipe was rusted on too bad to the exhaust that it could not be removed. He felt so bad, he only charged me 20 bucks. It should get me going down the road until I want to fork over the 400 for a new set.

Kevin

pete.v · Apr 15, 2015

Wow, that looks pretty. It might even last. I'd ride back over there and give him that extra 10 bucks for job well done.

Biscuit · Apr 15, 2015

Yes, that is a very sanitary weld. looking at it though, and again at the photo first posted, I realized you pipes and mine (MK3) are different. Mine are of one diameter along their full length straight into the head, and your example appear to be of smaller diameter, then expand at the head.

Fractured Exhaust Pipe

Rohan

Hobot

Rohan

Bernhard

Bob Z.

Hobot

YellaPeril

Biscuit

Rohan

Rohan

Ron L

pete.v

Anonymous

Guest

Biscuit

Fast Eddie

FreeRadical

milfordite

FreeRadical

pete.v

Biscuit

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