Damn it all to hell! Kickstarter problems.

Sorry, feeling the fool, don't know how to make the pictures display smaller!

Will work on it, lol's! :twisted:

Gary said:

Sorry, feeling the fool, don't know how to make the pictures display smaller!

Will work on it, lol's! :twisted:

Click to expand...

Photo Album is locked. Just post them big.

I'm not computer savvy... maybe this 'direct link' might work?

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy32 ... ox0042.jpg

Anyway, was just about to order the parts when it struck me that it's against my usual luck for the fix to be this easy. Now, I don't have the part in front of me, BUT... exactly how/what/??? could the kickstart shaft assembly even be wedged in there, with the pawl being jammed tightly closed? Me thinks I may want to consider this, as I cannot imagine... ah! How's this for newbie speculation? Unless the pawl, ground down, ineffective, fails to engage the 1st Lay (which it doesn't)... thus 'stopping' it from wedging in the plate like that? Right? That must be it, as if the pawl had gotten a good bite in the 1st Lay, it'd NOT have (via the kick) continued it's turning until it wedged in there.

As is, it's looking like an under $40.00 'fix'. And I like that. 8)

In photobucket you will see a link that says Edit From there you can resize the photo to medium, Be sure to replace original photo. :wink:

Ah, thanks HN!
But it suddenly occurs to me, the pawl is probably NOT 'wedged' under the plate. Just appear to be so to some green-arsed, know-nothing-about-the-bike newbie, eh? :mrgreen:

That plate holds the pawl in a position so the gear does not contact it while running.

Tried your 'edit' feature. Duh! This should work...



Bingo! Jeez, thanks!

I should have said large! Sorry. But Large will work too and not cut off anything.

Gary said:

Tried your 'edit' feature. Duh! This should work...

Bingo! Jeez, thanks!

Click to expand...

Too small. :mrgreen:

I'd vote remove gear box as less time bent trying to service it
installed, AND if the little pawl edges worn round, then likely
other items in need of their every 3rd or 4th decade refreshing.

AMC gear box had no clearance issues to go sans gaskets and
is likely better w/o, for closer together more stable clamping.
Only thing I will use now for sealing goop is >
Racer's Blue Hi Temp Hylomar, head to kicker factory seal help.

Unless you bought a bargain $5-6000 fully fettered Cdo sold
at some good loss to DPO, best get used to going though your
whole rig - piecemeal as it fails, near or far from home
or have at it all at once for longer future intact intervals.

One mean issue not mentioned, is about every replacement
bush supplied will require reaming-honing-ramming jamming
to get clearance to even slip on shafts. Be prepaped to
expand time and tools to have piece of mind down there.
The 1st gear cog has thinnest hi loaded bush and slop
may add to pawl alignment rounding off.

Bearings can be fall out cold loose, hope not, or very
tight - so have no fear to heat case up to almost
frying pan temp to drop out old and drop in new cold
bearing while case hot expanded.

hobot

Thanks, Hobot. After a couple posts about the 'wedging'... it finally dawned on me, checked it out when I got home, now understand the plate's function (no doubt from SwooshDave's hint). I inspected the gears as best I could and, while no expert, they simply look brand new, no wear. No way they are originals, and likely very low mileage on them, at that. On a hunch, I went through a couple boxes of 'junk' that came with the bike. Found a damaged layshaft and main. Per the damage, my guess is that a chunck (or chunks) of gearing teeth, fairly decent in size sized, had played hell in the box under some (at least) moderate load, if not heavy. A chewed up bushing or two, also. With the exception of the pawl, the gearbox appears to be very pristine. Of course, that's to this layman's eyes... but I'd bet there are very few miles, all things considered, on this gearbox.

Now to order the parts.
And guys... virtual Norton FRIENDS all... my most sincere "Thank you".

Gary

Gary said:

Thanks, guys. It's just one of those things. Never opened it up, so minor trepidations. However, once I start, I can generally sort it all out and get her closed back up again without having more than two or three bolts... maybe a couple of nuts, assorted washers left over. But hell, the bike probably didn't need them, anyways... :shock:

Click to expand...

I have a theory that if you strip and assemble a Norton enough times, you'll have enough leftover parts to build another Norton. Must try it one day.

1. I liked the full sized photos to veiw.
Right Click on image, click View Image for complete small view
then click it again for the hi res. view to scroll to details.
Back arrow to return to post text.

2. You about got the worn pawl set up figured out, hope that's all,
but check the fit of lay shaft into the kick start shaft bush.
There's a hand full of tricky stuff to face on complete rebuild,
Replacing said bush is just one of them. Best to start new
post on each detail issue or this one could expand to 12 pages.

3. 3rd gear set is the weakest for breaking its teeth off.
Peel did once when I thought I'd dropped to 2nd to
catch up with Monster 900, I'd pulled up behind a car
so they could catch up, soon as saw what I was on they freaked
out of there. Yep I catch up even on 12 PSI in front 18 in rear.
I ran full blast another 20 miles before the pieces jammed on
gears but top to limp home.

4. Try Racer's Blue HI Temp 600'F Hylomar, everywhere.
Don't need no stinking gaskets in gear box, nor any
where else but on TS cover, nope not even the head.

5. Put a cigarette package foil strip or similar in
the groove of the kicker shaft case O ring, then
light grease the shaft and light coat of RTV or Hylomar
then slip together and don't move till over night.
Works about as well as the machined dual lip seal mod.

6. Regardless of what others may advise here,
You Are Not Nutz to find no normal scale wrench set
[Whitworth, SAE, Metric] will fit a number of tough
fasteners, let alone injured ones - so good investment at some
point to get the Met-Rench hollowed out socket and wrench
set to save your day and sanity. http://www.metrinch.tv/

7. Don't forget to add to order a few extra small thin weak
circlips the clutch seats on.

8. If you fill g/b to dribble out factory level plug then its over
filled as usual and the excess takes a path out through
clutch plates. Fill about an inch below upper drain plug
level. There is a real one at botton

9. To finally adjust the chains, pull back via drive chain adjustors
till Primary chain just gets slack out, Then use gearbox
adjuster to draw primary chain slack to -3/4" easy flop in a run.
This takes out chance road thrust pulls slack out of stuff wrong way.
If not enough slack in primary chain cold - heat can make it
as taunt and a guitar string and bend shafts just idling.

hobot

Thanks to all of you guys for your help. Got her together and closed her up late Friday night. Charged the battery, fired her up Saturday for some fun in the sun. Once closed up... if I had to do her again, I'd have shifted the clutch activation lever (through the inspection plate) about an 1/8" counter-clockwise for a straighter 'pull' by the cable, rather than where she had been placed.

I have located a place where I can get 'real' premium gas, rather than the ethynol crap. How about two quick questions from this rookie before I depart (for now, lol's!).

1.) Do you guys use a lead additive in the fuel?
2.) Is a slight octane booster in order for USA premium (I've never used the stuff)?

The 1st question, because I don't know if the valve seats have ever been replaced with hardened seats, or lapped, thus loosing its 'lead memory'.

1.) Do you guys use a lead additive in the fuel? No, none needed you already have lead free seats from new
2.) Is a slight octane booster in order for USA premium (I've never used the stuff)? Acetone is said to be good but never tried

Ethanol like methanol is a good fuel to up octane and burn cooler while acetone is more famous for increasing mileage d/t better vaporization. The down sides are to items that these organic solvent oxygenators dissolve. The octane booster additives would take most a tank full to raise octane even a point or two over base line gasoline and have similar to worst downsides at the booze spiked gasoline.