Clutch, throttle, featherlight and brake cable failure from lack of lube

concours

concours

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Tried to make the title searchable for future reference.

The message is to do it. Lubricate.
I use the pressure lube to save time.
The old baggy trick works for those with lots of time.
Moly grease on the pivots.
31B8B0C9-57F3-4124-B22B-FA19D4985939.jpeg
9206B54C-3545-413B-8B39-345088BF90D2.jpeg
 
So you had a Venhill Featherlight cable failure on a ?

What is that bike an Indian, Harley, or Japanese twin?
 
How happy are you with the cable lube tool? Is that a Motion Pro or one of the many knock-offs? I have used the baggy method for years or a variation of it and I'm getting too old to wait a week for the lube to leak through the length of cable! Lots of equipment here with cables.

Anybody use a different type of tool? What are your results?
Thanks
 
rvich said:
How happy are you with the cable lube tool? Is that a Motion Pro or one of the many knock-offs? I have used the baggy method for years or a variation of it and I'm getting too old to wait a week for the lube to leak through the length of cable! Lots of equipment here with cables.

Anybody use a different type of tool? What are your results?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Old Motion Pro.

Works great. I hold it with a paper shop towel while I spray the juice, catches the slight leakage.
 
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Used to be fond of TriFlo Teflon spray when I used one of these. Been so long since I used it, I forgot I had it.

Clutch, throttle, featherlight and brake cable failure from lack of lube


Says made in USA on it. Might be early Motion Pro.
 
I'm starting to change my thinking about lubrication ( s ) .
Teflon spray for isolastics and Venhill cables .
EP 140 for every thing else .
Wheel bearing grease for (Said it ..) .
Just lubed up my lovely bicycle , to PRIDE and back , with the EP 140 , sweet as silk , great Pride parade .
Enjoy .
 
I have used the MotionPro unit that Bob shows forever and it works better than the other ones that they have on their site.Simple to use and a lot cheaper than a new cable.
Mike
 
Venhills recommends using a bit of synthetic grease at the cable ends, in particular the bar end, but they say that no lube is required on the main cable, stainless on Teflon is very low friction when dry and stays that way.
I've been following that recommendation for quite awhile now, about 40,000 miles on the Vincent and all is well.
Did the Norton cable break at an end?

Glen
 
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worntorn said:
Venhills recommends using a bit of synthetic grease at the cable ends, in particular the bar end, but they say that no lube is required on the main cable, stainless on Teflon is very low friction when dry and stays that way.
I've been following that recommendation for quite awhile now, about 40,000 miles on the Vincent and all is well.
Did the Norton cable break at an end?

Glen
Click to expand...
Yes. Top end. Perfectly aligned and always greasy.
There is a pic here somewhere.
Summer '22 or '23
I am aware of the factory recommendation.
 
In 48+ years I have never lubricated my cables, throttle, clutch, taco or speedo cable, I am still running the original speedo and taco cables the top throttle cable, I did replace the bottom throttle cables when I misplaced them when I replace the carbs, and since putting grease on the cable end of my clutch cable I haven't broken a clutch cable since, 40+ years now, but I did replace it about 15 years ago for a new one and kept the old one as a spare.
In my early days of breaking clutch cables I ran home a few times without a clutch, before putting the grease on the cable end at the leaver I broke about 6 cables, they were cheap to replace back in the 70s, it was about 79 when I started to use the grease where the cable runs through the adjuster and on the leaver end.
I did replace the speedo cable when the original one had a kink in it, but the new one gave up the ghost not long after fitting it, but the old one was still working so I put it back on and it still hang in there after all these years.
On my top throttle cable I also put a dab of grease where it goes into the twist grip.
If a cable is going to break it will be where the stress is on the cable end.

Ashley
 
The main reason I lube my cables is because when winter rolls around, some of my cables freeze. It's important to use a lube that doesn't attract moisture. If you have the ability to keep them completely dry then its another game. Once they get wet, you really have no choice but keep them lubed as its nearly impossible to get the moisture out. I ordered the Motion Pro device (above) and may try electronic cleaner or ether to see if it will help dry out any cables before lubing, although I'm not sure how to test it.
 
Was at a bike event in NYC last night and my clutch cable snapped at the handle on the way home. New cable ordered but currently paying for parking in Manhattan @ $66 per 24hrs 🤦‍♂️.
Gonna try and retrieve it later today with one of those emergency cable kits. Wish me luck ☘️
Clutch, throttle, featherlight and brake cable failure from lack of lube
 
ashman said:
In 48+ years I have never lubricated my cables, throttle, clutch, taco or speedo cable, I am still running the original speedo and taco cables the top throttle cable, I did replace the bottom throttle cables when I misplaced them when I replace the carbs, and since putting grease on the cable end of my clutch cable I haven't broken a clutch cable since, 40+ years now, but I did replace it about 15 years ago for a new one and kept the old one as a spare.
In my early days of breaking clutch cables I ran home a few times without a clutch, before putting the grease on the cable end at the leaver I broke about 6 cables, they were cheap to replace back in the 70s, it was about 79 when I started to use the grease where the cable runs through the adjuster and on the leaver end.
I did replace the speedo cable when the original one had a kink in it, but the new one gave up the ghost not long after fitting it, but the old one was still working so I put it back on and it still hang in there after all these years.
On my top throttle cable I also put a dab of grease where it goes into the twist grip.
If a cable is going to break it will be where the stress is on the cable end.

Ashley
Click to expand...
rvich said:
The main reason I lube my cables is because when winter rolls around, some of my cables freeze. It's important to use a lube that doesn't attract moisture. If you have the ability to keep them completely dry then its another game. Once they get wet, you really have no choice but keep them lubed as its nearly impossible to get the moisture out. I ordered the Motion Pro device (above) and may try electronic cleaner or ether to see if it will help dry out any cables before lubing, although I'm not sure how to test it.
Click to expand...
Old skool snowmobile RULE #1
"Check the throttle returns as normal before starting"
There is no neutral, just a CVT ready to take you across the parking lot into a pickup truck.
(Except for Evinrude, they had a neutral clutch)
 
concours said:
Old skool snowmobile RULE #1
"Check the throttle returns as normal before starting"
There is no neutral, just a CVT ready to take you across the parking lot into a pickup truck.
(Except for Evinrude, they had a neutral clutch)
Click to expand...
Good luck getting it out of Manhattan . Having lived there it's a nightmare for parking , even temporary.
 
speirmoor said:
Was at a bike event in NYC last night and my clutch cable snapped at the handle on the way home. New cable ordered but currently paying for parking in Manhattan @ $66 per 24hrs 🤦‍♂️.
Gonna try and retrieve it later today with one of those emergency cable kits. Wish me luck ☘️
View attachment 115146
Click to expand...
If you are not too loaded up just paddle it forward and snick into gear
And before you stop find neutral
I've had to do this a few times over the years
Changing gear is ok if you get the revs right
I've never actually had a clutch cable snap
But plenty have pulled out of the nipple at the clutch lever end
On inspection they haven't been bird caged
 
I use Tri-Flow. It comes in a small bottle with a long snout, not spray. Unhook the cable at the lever and dribble the stuff down the cable. It really clings to the inner cable and flows easily down. It takes about 5 - 10 minutes and is good for about 3 months.
 
speirmoor said:
Was at a bike event in NYC last night and my clutch cable snapped at the handle on the way home. New cable ordered but currently paying for parking in Manhattan @ $66 per 24hrs 🤦‍♂️.
Gonna try and retrieve it later today with one of those emergency cable kits. Wish me luck ☘️
View attachment 115146
Click to expand...
You need to order two new cables, install both - connect one of them and tuck the ends of the other away behind the headlight / under the seat. Then a quick changeover if / when the cable breaks. Got me out of trouble on my T140 and the Commando. The cable invariably breaks at the barrel at the handlebar end, I also have a spare adjuster / abutment thing in the toolbag.
 
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