Clucth nut, fixing in place?

bad_friday said:

comnoz said:

The belville washer works wonders there also. Jim

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Sorry, but what's a belville washer? Any picture?
Fritz

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comnoz said:

Mike, do you suppose a letter with a belville washer for the alternator rotor would make it through the mail to you. If so I will stick one in an envelope to you. I have a pile of them. Jim

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The same offer for me?
Fritz

I ordered these in error, I was going for the one for the alternator rotor, mis ordered. But it is correct for the clutch, and cheap. $1.26 each, no minimum.
Fastenal has been great for SS hardware. I did much of the stuff on my Combat for cheaper than cad plated.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ?sku=33355

I used boltdepot for the non-structural SS stuff in 18-8. I found them a bit more reasonable in price than most, but you have to watch their shipping charges.

I use the belville washer on the rotor and I know it take a bit of torque to bring it home. I would think that there are different ratings but have not delved that deep.
I would use a torque wrench while tightening the belville on the clutch nut and make sure you do not exceed 50ftlb when fully engaged, that is to say, flattened.

Isn't this the nut that tightens the clutch against the little clip on the other side of the clutch? I sheared that little clip in half all the way around and then one Norton buddy told me to only go with half the torque required in the manual. That would be 30 ft-lb instead of 60. When I tried that it did not feel like enough so I did around 45 or so.

motorson said:

Isn't this the nut that tightens the clutch against the little clip on the other side of the clutch? I sheared that little clip in half all the way around and then one Norton buddy told me to only go with half the torque required in the manual. That would be 30 ft-lb instead of 60. When I tried that it did not feel like enough so I did around 45 or so.

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Yes, the manual actually says 70 ft-lb. You did well by going to 45.....or so.

I guess it was 35 that didn't feel like enouth and I did torque it with a proper wrench. I think it was 45 and I know I wrote it down somewhere!!

motorson said:

Isn't this the nut that tightens the clutch against the little clip on the other side of the clutch? I sheared that little clip in half all the way around and then one Norton buddy told me to only go with half the torque required in the manual. That would be 30 ft-lb instead of 60. When I tried that it did not feel like enough so I did around 45 or so.

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comnoz stated on here somewhere that he uses a thicker or heavy duty clip for the back of clutch basket :idea: a little sanding was required I believe.

Hi Sirs,
please, i dont understand if you are talking about the tab washer for clutch (LOCKWASHER - CLUTCH NUT E6266
Part Number 040374) or for rotor (washer n. 067894).

For the rotor i use this washer in the picture below, it comes from old Ape Piaggio hub, like in second pic.

Ciao.

Piero

Am I right that a belleville washer can only be used once?
Fritz

That could be the way it is because I used a belleville a couple years back and upon removal ,it had lost it's tension/dished shape. Flat. It was steel.

Torontonian said:

That could be the way it is because I used a belleville a couple years back and upon removal ,it had lost it's tension/dished shape. Flat. It was steel.

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If this is the case that tension is lost, are these bellville washers the answer?

Foxy said:

motorson said:

Isn't this the nut that tightens the clutch against the little clip on the other side of the clutch? I sheared that little clip in half all the way around and then one Norton buddy told me to only go with half the torque required in the manual. That would be 30 ft-lb instead of 60. When I tried that it did not feel like enough so I did around 45 or so.

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comnoz stated on here somewhere that he uses a thicker or heavy duty clip for the back of clutch basket :idea: a little sanding was required I believe.

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Found the comoz and pvisseriii heads up on larger circlip I mentioned
clutch-woes-t7799.html?hilit=larger%20clutch%20circlip#p81747
foxy

"
If this is the case that tension is lost, are these bellville washers the answer?"

No, this is:

Foxy said:

Found the comoz and pvisseriii heads up on larger circlip I mentioned
clutch-woes-t7799.html?hilit=larger%20clutch%20circlip#p81747
foxy

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WOW! My name in the same sentance as Comnoz. What this old world coming too.

As far as the belleville washer goes, I have had one on my rotor nut since i bought it (the bike). It has been off at least a dozen times and has never lost its spring nor functionality.

But I have to add that despite my preference for safety wire, obviously there are some places where it can't work because there is nothing to safety to - alternator nut, for example.

Oh, and don't use the cheap-a$$ Safety wire pliers for 20 bucks (like the one in the pic) - spend $90 for a 6 inch Milbar reversible pair.

Hi All,

Having sheared two clutch location circlips (060752) when puting my clutch back on I took advice
from this forum.
- Torquing to 70 ft/lbs is obviously too much.
- And the normal circlip is too thin to fit nicely in the mainshaft groove.
The pressure either shears them in half or twists them out of the groove.

So I poped in to see the nice Mr Carl Rosner and bought some original circlips (060752)
and some from the MK3 starter motor (068072). Several of each to allow for further misshaps!

The original ones (060752) are 0.044" thick and are loose in the mainshaft groove
The starter motor ones (068072) are 0.063" and too fat to go in the groove.
So I cafefully ground one to 0.057" and it was a nice snug fit in the groove.

The gap between the two ends when fitted of the 068072 looks smaller than the 060752.
I have not measured the gap.

In this string there is discussion of the use (or not) of the tab washer (063459). When removing
the original that has been there for 20 years it did not look squashed, but the two ones used when
fitting the clutch back on but shearing/turning the circlip were squashed.

I am tempted to use just the hardend washer (063447) with a Nyloc or Staytite nut. Will either
of these be likely to stop the nut coming undone?

I think I will Torque to 35 ft/lbs

What do you guys think?

Thanks
Staytite

35ftlb's may be a little light. 45 FTLB and a little blue loctite seems do the job. Many do not like the tab washer, but I still use one. When we are not over tightening, the tab washer does not distort so bad.