Roadholder Mk3 reseal rebuild in place

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p400 said:
In progress , Mk3 fork reseal in place.
Have RGM springs #067723P
Leakproof 06-5483/A seals appear too thin compared to OEM.
bottom circlip requires training to remove.
Have PJ1 fluid for fill 20w

Fork tube not disturbed, still clamped in place.

any advice?

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This looks so precarious! Any movement from that car jack whilst you are heaving on the fork nut and you have a nice motorcycle on the floor, consider adding front check straps and using a proper frame rail lift....not expensive and spreads the load.

As far as working without taking the fork legs out, why?

Surely it is easier to work on a leg with it all in your hands or more specifically, held in a bench vice?

Did a pair of Maxton 35mm Ceriani copies (Cartridge) from My Rickman a couple of days ago, and I have done Suzuki GT500 and Yamaha 38mms this year. All removed from frame to be more convenient, I would say the Yamaha forks would have been particularly difficult to work with in the yokes!
 
SteveA said:
As far as working without taking the fork legs out, why?

Surely it is easier to work on a leg with it all in your hands or more specifically, held in a bench vice?
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A perfectly good way to do it in my opinion as it avoids having to remove and refit the stanchions from/to the yokes which isn't necessary unless the stanchions need replacing.
 
Not shown, I did suspend Mk3 from above with a strap/hoist as a safety.

Not having to disconnect the front caliper was amazing!
Used pair plastic shim/wedges (Lowes) to secure front pads in place at correct spread.
Caliper was pulled before front wheel removed and installed after front wheel mounted.
easypeasy!
Not pulling the fork tubes was great!
Filling the tubes with 175 ml PJ1 20w oil from top after reassembly was mess, requiring a slooooow pour.
Kinda repolished the lower alloy tubes.
Still need to pull fork boots in place.

20210826_ForkAssemble1.jpg
 
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p400 said:
Not shown, I did suspend Mk3 from above with a strap/hoist as a safety.
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Good to hear, but as you say not visible. It is always difficult making comment on shop safety because most of us do stupid stuff at some time that we realise afterwards wasn't the safest approach....I still don't like working with a car jack, I have always found them unstable.

As it happens the Rickman and the Suzuki were both up on my main work platform for work, and I already had the front calipers off for brake piston and seal work, so I didn't need to avoid that. The Yamaha was the most tricky set up, and I needed to get an improvised damper rod holder in and out of the leg, which involved at least partial inversion. I was also able to drop the legs in the area the bike was kept in and take them to the work bench in another building.

I have sometimes found avoiding a couple of simple removal and replace tasks actually makes life more difficult, not less, but I can see that you and others have found this works OK.
 
Ran a couple hundred miles on country roads, tried to hit some pot holes and bumps, forks seem much better.

Wagner (Lowes) heat gun to soften and install boots. Without heat boots do not go on.
Minimal heat. Maybe 15 seconds. Maybe plug in the heat gun as well.

20210903_192748.jpg
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Check your Damper tube cap on both. They sometimes get real loose from wear... #06.1347 If loose buy new.
You could look here: https://jsmotorsport.com/technical-fork-damping-sleeves/

, or you can go landsdown or Consetino Engineering cartridge type.
All based on how much you want to spend.
Cheers,
Tom
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Tom,
Cosentino also has just the bushing and seal kit that sells for about $150.00 that is easy to install and works well. I went for their complete conversion and was very pleased with the customer service that he gave through out the process.Probably over kill but there is no trailer behind a hearse and really like the way it works along with adjustability.
Mike
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Ok??? Now where does it seal???? the shaft of the the main tube or the slider ? or where ever??? I'm confused now! The leakproof is now batting up and down between the slider and the collar when it goes over rough roads?
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It seals on both the ID [like the original seal] and the OD, [where the OEM seal is a press fit] as it's designed to float.
 
chaztuna said:
It seals on both the ID [like the original seal] and the OD, [where the OEM seal is a press fit] as it's designed to float.
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Yes it's a weird concept but I've done this and it works well. 4 notches cut into the thick top of the 2 bushings. The seals themselves float up and down a little bit. No leaks over many years , can't say that for the stock seals setup.
 
Torontonian said:
Yes it's a weird concept but I've done this and it works well. 4 notches cut into the thick top of the 2 bushings. The seals themselves float up and down a little bit. No leaks over many years , can't say that for the stock seals setup.
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Please post a photo and description of the notches to allow the next inmate to accomplish this task.
Thank you
 
p400 said:
Please post a photo and description of the notches to allow the next inmate to accomplish this task.
Thank you
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And also explain what the notches do, and what effect that has on functionality, please.
 
Fast Eddie said:
And also explain what the notches do, and what effect that has on functionality, please.
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The 4 notches across from each other allow fork oil to enter the situation , a common small bastard file will do the job nicely for all 8 notches in both upper ends of the fork bronze bushes. Need not be deep , just deep enough to let in some fork oil to let the seals ride /float up and down slightly as designed with some oil in there.
 
Torontonian said:
The 4 notches across from each other allow fork oil to enter the situation , a common small bastard file will do the job nicely for all 8 notches in both upper ends of the fork bronze bushes. Need not be deep , just deep enough to let in some fork oil to let the seals ride /float up and down slightly as designed with some oil in there.
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Understood, thanks.

I would have thought some oil would get up to the seals anyway though, if it didn’t, we wouldn’t need the seals ?
 
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These Leakproof seals are amazing IF you file light notches to let them do their job which is to float a tiny bit in fork oil.
 
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