Cleaning Clutch Plates

When you get the sprocket puller tight, take a heat gun and start heating up the sprocket. It will pop off with a snap, don't go whacking on it with a BFH. Give it time.

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Beaware that Cdo's come in variations of manufacture, damage and owners, so advice like DogT has its worked out like that for me, once, but the other times even with hi torque on the puller and hi heat - still needed the 3 lb sledge rap on the center bolt shock. The pullers I had break were just sitting there tensioned while I was heating or waiting a bit to soak in, snap. I use heat gun/hair dryer for some things but not the front sprocket, only a torch.

Study up on shimming. The front sprocket has a system and the rear has a system. Pay particular attention the the clutch locating circlip and clutch locating washer. This area is criticlal and pertains to the over spec'ed 70 ft lb of torque at the clutch nut (40nwill do alway use a fresh tab on the tab washer. This is straight forward but requires your full attention. (as with most thing on these bikes, even the tire pressure need to be just right)

I'd have to agree with DogT, when ever the BFH comes out of the draw, it always costs me needless money.

There's always another way....................

Use a small hammer harder, same difference to a stuck up tapper fit, that spacers behind will prevent the tight fit throwing torque loads on the key which is just a locator. Do not use the factory soft steel lock washer under the center nut, use hard steel washer and loctite and torque just enough to feel a good seating w/o give in the back up clip.

Don't be afraid of the hammer but wield it carefully, a good rap once you have tension from the puller and some heat. Make sure you protect the threads on the shaft.

Duh dude you rap the puller center shaft planted in center of the crankshaft, so no threads to hit. Do ya know what happens using the soft steel lock washer?

Update - after a few delays of life ; golfing in Myrtle Beach, fly fishing in Quebec, landscaping project to keep the wife happy... I got back at the bike

Engine sprocket came off rather easily after following forum advice. Used an inexpensive steering wheel puller, it came with 5/16 bolts that fit into the sprocket, tightened it up, heated the sprocket with a torch for about 5 min, tightened puller some more and rapped the centre puller bolt and it popped off. I collected the shims from sprocket and clutch drum. Hopefully the new hub won't result in additional shimming. Pulled the inner case to inspect the countershaft (front drive) sprocket, I'll start another post regarding questions about that.

Besides the clutch hub, what else should be replaced? The snap rings and bearing look and feel ok

Niagara850 said:

Besides the clutch hub, what else should be replaced? The snap rings and bearing look and feel ok

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The circlip behind the clutch locating washer should be replaced with #15 shown here. http://www.oldbritts.com/1975_g12.html
This is a much beefier clip and does a good job. Sharp edge facing gearbox.

Reading your other post about the sprocket, i didn't realize what you were up to. I would go ahead and change it.