Café Commando build thread
- Thread starter Jeandr
- Start date
I placed the ignition switch close to the battery...
OK, so where is the battery :?: I tried to place it in a lot of locations and then while talking to my friend explaining how I did some of the things I did :idea: The seat, it is a big hunk of foam...
So the thig to do was to make a shelf and place the battery on it
Then make room in the hump for the battery
For the oil return, I soldered a standard plumbing thingie and used a long speedway pipe for the return line
The speedway pipe will go to the return line from the engine.
Jean
OK, so where is the battery :?: I tried to place it in a lot of locations and then while talking to my friend explaining how I did some of the things I did :idea: The seat, it is a big hunk of foam...
So the thig to do was to make a shelf and place the battery on it
Then make room in the hump for the battery
For the oil return, I soldered a standard plumbing thingie and used a long speedway pipe for the return line
The speedway pipe will go to the return line from the engine.
Jean
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2005
- Messages
- 1,211
The details are so sweet.
Made the cable stops and attached the cables to the front brake. Those are Suzuki brake cables, I wanted to keep the threaded studs, so that is what I came up with, there is a degree of adjustment left in the cable at the lever and also, the blocks can be unscrewed. I also hooked up the throttle cables (no pics because nothing special about that :wink: )
Jean
Jean
Made my headlight "ears" today...
The headlight shell is a standard one with all the holes plugged up, no ampmeter, no standard idiot lights and no switches. I will have a couple of LEDs for the flasher and high beam and maybe one for oil pressure and one for anti drain valve not open, but the KISS principle is saying just that, keep it simple stupid :mrgreen:
Jean
The headlight shell is a standard one with all the holes plugged up, no ampmeter, no standard idiot lights and no switches. I will have a couple of LEDs for the flasher and high beam and maybe one for oil pressure and one for anti drain valve not open, but the KISS principle is saying just that, keep it simple stupid :mrgreen:
Jean
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- Aug 6, 2005
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Are they welded directly to the fork tubes.
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2005
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I figured, but they look such a good fit that you can't tell from the picture, excellent.
This is my breather, I know it may open a can of worms, but this is what I wanted. The main reason is because the breather will not be going back to the oil tank, it will go in a catch can and then be routed to the athmosphere. The way Jim Comstock does it is most likely better, but there is a lot of oil coming out of it, something I could not consider with my setup.
This is the same valve Jim uses, so it should work as well (famous last words :roll: )
I drilled a new timing chest drain hole much lower to make sure the timing chest does not fill up with oil.
My frame and a host of parts are at the powder coating place, that should go pretty fast, about a week. All my bolts and studs and washers are at the plating place, but that should take a lot longer, 4 loooong weeks
Oh well
Jean
This is the same valve Jim uses, so it should work as well (famous last words :roll: )
I drilled a new timing chest drain hole much lower to make sure the timing chest does not fill up with oil.
My frame and a host of parts are at the powder coating place, that should go pretty fast, about a week. All my bolts and studs and washers are at the plating place, but that should take a lot longer, 4 loooong weeks
Oh wellJean
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2009
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- 11,531
I assume the hole is where I circled? Helpful for those of us not as inmate with underneath the timing cover, as giants and monsters roam there.
Didn't you do a similar breather on your last build?
swooshdave said:
I assume the hole is where I circled? Helpful for those of us not as inmate with underneath the timing cover, as giants and monsters roam there.
Didn't you do a similar breather on your last build?
That is correct, the new drain hole is where you added the circle. The breather I made on my previous build was exactly like the one Jim Comstock builds for CNW, as I mentionned, there is a lot of oil coming out of that breather, maybe as much as what the pump is pushing back to the tank especially at low speed, as the revs rise, there is less air movement so less oil being slung through the breather.
Jean
PS Wolfie, I think I will stick to a no-change bearing since I don't pan on changing the cam in the next 20 or so years :wink:
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- Oct 19, 2005
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That is an extra low drain hole and will lower oil to bathe the cam drive and spray oil blasts more than act as a vent and add more pumping loss by tiny restriction in the reversal freg. of running when venting matters.
Bigger hole best added rather higher above, will let pressure spike be lower by using TS case volume and let the oil do it thing - seeking equal level w/o seek exit to outside.
Bigger hole
swooshdave said:
Now that is a very good idea!!!
but doesn't the timing chest need that level of oil as original for its camchain etc
or would the oilsplash and/or mist be sufficient ?
of course with that reedvalve you are going to suck more oil into the timingside and as there is a hole just behind the camchain that will lube it more than enough
Comnoz , you have done more radical mods to the oiling side ,what are your thoughts?
If you read the posts on breathers, Jim mentionned he did get more power from the engine as the volume of the crankcase was increased. He did that by hogging out bigger and bigger holes in the timing side until the strenght of that part was compromised and the engine was destroyed. His solution was to put the breather with a reed valve directly in the crankcase to get a slight vaccum in the case thus preventing oil leaks, apparently an increase of power was also a side benefit although no claims are made of that feat (probably for liability reasons). He probably won't say, but he is reserving the bump on the timing chest for his electric starter so there is no possibility of putting the breather there on his design.
Jim wrote that too much oil in the timing chest is not good, the oil gets wipped like a mayonaise by the timing gears and chain(s), he said there is enough with the oil return hole down low to lube the whole gear train, this was the result of his tests with a transparent timing cover.
The reed valve is there to get air out of the engine and create negative pressure to keep the beast from leaking.
Jean
Jim wrote that too much oil in the timing chest is not good, the oil gets wipped like a mayonaise by the timing gears and chain(s), he said there is enough with the oil return hole down low to lube the whole gear train, this was the result of his tests with a transparent timing cover.
The reed valve is there to get air out of the engine and create negative pressure to keep the beast from leaking.
Jean
Now there's the pot calling the kettle black. Seems some one ribbed me for "copying" an idea of theirs, and now this. I've seen this done somewhere in Kansas i believe. Just ribbing you, it's all looking great. I'm gealouse my project has stalled. Dam work, kids and life!!
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