Alton electric start doesnt work anymore

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I think it’s either a bad solenoid, bad ground or perhaps battery (but it’s less than a month old).
So I installed an Alton this weekend,

What type of battery did you fit "less than month ago"?

The Alton recommendation is for at least an 18AH battery.......

https://alton-france.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/electric-starter-kit-notice.pdf

"Before fitting the kit, owners should ensure they have a suitable battery in as-new condition. Failure to use a suitable battery can result in damage to your kit. Batteries should be at least equivalent to reference YTX 20L-BS 12V 18Ah"


......so did you fit an 18AH battery ahead of the starter installation?
 
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Wouldn’t the light still go out when I push the button? Now it stays on

Perhaps the battery voltage is low enough that the solenoid won't pull in any more. Do you have a voltmeter (DMM or VOM)? You should see voltage at the starter solenoid with the button pressed. You should also check battery voltage with ignition and headlamp on, just to confirm that the battery is good.
 
The long wire which Alton provide should be connected to the spare white/red coming from from one of the grey handlebar switch looms ( normally the right hand one).

Is your bike pos or neg earth?


Cheers,

cliffa.
Hi.
Sorry for the delay.
Andover sent me a new starter in warranty.
Very serious supplier.
Starter was broken.
Whit new starter the bike starts first push.
Greetings from Italy
 
As I recall it’s an 18ah
Will ck voltage when I get home
Out of the kindness of my heart I have just driven to my "Stealth" garage (invisible to 'er indoors) and measured across the low current side of the solenoid and got 8.2 ohms. so I would suggest checking that first and then these in order of importance..

1) Check that you have not connected both sides of the battery to the solenoid. If you have it would explain the single operation, and warning lamp going off. Only the negative should be connected, and the cable on other side of the solenoid goes to the stud on the starter motor.

2) Check that high current cable is not touching the starter body (i.e. crimped on connector upside down and touching something it shouldn't) or any other part of the frame.

3) Disconnect battery, remove both heavy cables, reconnect everything else then connect a meter set on say 200 ohms to each solenoid stud, and press the starter button. you should see the meter drop to near zero ohms. If not the solenoid is faulty. if it drops to zero without the button being operated I suspect you have fried the solenoid and the heavy contacts are fused together (from an error as mentioned in step 1).

4) If all above are ok, reconnect the heavy leads then carefully take a jump lead, clip it onto one side of the solenoid and firmly push it onto the other side. The starter should spin with vigor (if your battery is good). If not the starter motor is suspect, and I would contact your supplier or Alton direct.


I hope this helps,


cliffa.
 
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Hi.
Sorry for the delay.
Andover sent me a new starter in warranty.
Very serious supplier.
Starter was broken.
Whit new starter the bike starts first push.
Greetings from Italy
No problem Piero, glad to hear it's all sorted. Cannot Fault AN for customer service, they are top in my opinion.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Out of the kindness of my heart I have just driven to my "Stealth" garage (invisible to 'er indoors) and measured across the low current side of the solenoid and got 8.2 ohms. so I would suggest checking that first and then these in order of importance..

1) Check that you have not connected both sides of the battery to the solenoid. If you have it would explain the single operation, and warning lamp going off. Only the negative should be connected, and the cable on other side of the solenoid goes to the stud on the starter motor.

2) Check that high current cable is not touching the starter body (i.e. crimped on connector upside down and touching something it shouldn't) or any other part of the frame.

3) Disconnect battery, remove both heavy cables, reconnect everything else then connect a meter set on say 200 ohms to each solenoid stud, and press the starter button. you should see the meter drop to near zero ohms. If not the solenoid is faulty. if it drops to zero without the button being operated I suspect you have fried the solenoid and the heavy contacts are fused together (from an error as mentioned in step 1).

4) If all above are ok, reconnect the heavy leads then carefully take a jump lead, clip it onto one side of the solenoid and firmly push it onto the other side. The starter should spin with vigor (if your battery is good). If not the starter motor is suspect, and I would contact your supplier or Alton direct.


I hope this helps,


cliffa.
Thank you for the guidance, much appreciated;)
 
Testing results
I have power at the white/red wire connected to black lead with button pushed
Solenoid , one terminal lower one connected to neg battery terminal has power, never drops when hit buttton, other terminal nothing with or without button pushed
When I jump terminals nothing
I’m going to try a new battery but me thinks the solenoid is at fault.
 
When I jump terminals nothing
I’m going to try a new battery but me thinks the solenoid is at fault.

If you bridged the two relay terminal studs (with a screwdriver or similar) and the starter didn't work, it would point to the relay not being the cause.
 
Testing results
I have power at the white/red wire connected to black lead with button pushed
Solenoid , one terminal lower one connected to neg battery terminal has power, never drops when hit buttton, other terminal nothing with or without button pushed
When I jump terminals nothing
I’m going to try a new battery but me thinks the solenoid is at fault.
The wire from the solenoid with the hoop connector should be on the positive side of the battery. The white/red is a switched negative as you have a positive earth bike.

If you have jumped the heavy terminals and nothing happened, as L.A.B. said it’s more likely you have a defective battery or starter motor.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
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That’s not how they suggest wiring the solenoid.
Solenoid has a ground to earth, large wire to starter motor, large wire to negative terminal on battery and a small black wire that connects to the switch gear white/red. Only the ground from the case goes to the pos terminal.
Your description would be for a negative ground system, mine is positive earth.
 
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Wouldn’t the solenoid at least click?
Could the battery still be at fault?

Yes it should click when the starter button is pressed but it doesn't.

The starter should also turn when the relay studs are bridged but doesn't.

Bridging the studs on the relay (Alton refer to it as a relay) bypasses it, so power should then be going directly to the starter from the battery and the starter should work regardless of whether the relay is faulty or not.

If the starter does not turn when the relay terminals are bridged then something else apart from the relay has to be causing the problem.

The wire from the solenoid with the hoop connector should be on the positive side of the battery. The white/red is a switched negative as you have a positive earth bike.

That’s not how they suggest wiring the solenoid.
Solenoid has a ground to earth, large wire to starter motor, large wire to negative terminal on battery and a small black wire that connects to the switch gear white/red. Only the ground from the case goes to the pos terminal.
Your description would be for a negative ground system, mine is positive earth.

Perhaps a slight misunderstanding there, as "the positive side of the battery" is the "earth" side in a positive earth/ground system. I think what cliffa meant is the relay earth connects to the positive side of the battery.
 
Well I ordered another brand new battery, exact specs. Talked to CBE, Jack seems to think it’s the solenoid, sending a new one. Fingers crossed
 
Your description would be for a negative ground system, mine is positive earth.

Not sure how you got to that conclusion mine is too, but I see in your later post you've ordered a new battery and solenoid. Just to be clear how many wires come from your solenoid? Mine has two. Maybe Alton are providing a different one now, as I had one of the wires break off mine. Luckily there was just enough sticking out of the case to allow me to solder (sorry Jimc, no other choice) the wire back on.


Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Not sure how you got to that conclusion mine is too, but I see in your later post you've ordered a new battery and solenoid. Just to be clear how many wires come from your solenoid? Mine has two. Maybe Alton are providing a different one now, as I had one of the wires break off mine. Luckily there was just enough sticking out of the case to allow me to solder (sorry Jimc, no other choice) the wire back on.


Cheers,

cliffa.
Congrats you solved my problem
I went back and looked at the solenoid ground wire and the solder was loose as hell. I resoldered it and now spins like a top!
Cjh
 
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