72’ Final drive chain. DID?

Standard 530 chains are inexpensive at under $100US. I don't put more than 5K miles on the chains I've bought over the years. I wipe down with a clean rag, lube, and wipe down again. I mix ATF and gear lube in a squirt oil can, and lube every roller and link. I do it once a month. Every two weeks if ridding a lot. I avoid water and dry dirt or mud whenever possible. I'm sure what I do is excessive and tedious for some, but I do what I do and don't care what anyone else is doing.

I don't use spray chain lube. Last time I used it maybe 30 years ago it was tacky messy and a PITA to clean off and didn't lube a standard chain well. Even if it is a better product today, I still would not use it.

I'll have to try one of the IWIS chains and see what all the excitement is about.
 
I ran DID 530 for years, at $25, I shitcanned them every season.
But, I got a wild hare (after reading many posts here) and, voila, no worries
72’ Final drive chain. DID?
72’ Final drive chain. DID?
72’ Final drive chain. DID?
 
Fast Eddie said:
So long as they both machined the same side !?!
Click to expand...
I've had 2 rear drums incorrectly machined from RGM !!
Not machined deep enough, so the side plates of the chain were running on the shoulder left behind after the sprocket was machined from 3/8-1/4!!
I brought this to Rodgers attention, but never heard back from him!!
The faulty machined sprocket put a twist on the chain! And made the teeth on the sprocket wear like a shark tooth on every other tooth!
This had me perplexed until I discovered the problem, I thought I had a twisted swinging arm!!
I hope this info is of some interest.
I machined the sprocket 1.5mm deeper and problem solved,
I told Rodger my findings and cure, but like I said no reply!!
A lot of wasted cash on 2 fecked brake drums and bearings,
No compensation from RGM!!
On the plus side the D.I,D 520 chain handled this abuse well, and that included a round trip to Italy
I think the Scott oiler saved the day, helped take some of the heat out of the chain, and kept it well lubed.
 
Last edited:
joinerjohn said:
I've had 2 rear drums incorrectly machined from RGM !!
Not machined deep enough, so the side plates of the chain were running on the shoulder left behind after the sprocket was machined from 3/8-1/4!!
I brought this to Rodgers attention, but never heard back from him!!
The faulty machined sprocket put a twist on the chain! And made the teeth on the sprocket wear like a shark tooth on every other tooth!
This had me perplexed until I discovered the problem, I thought I had a twisted swinging arm!!
I hope this info is of some interest.
I machined the sprocket 1.5mm deeper and problem solved,
I told Rodger my findings and cure, but like I said no reply!!
A lot of wasted cash on 2 fecked brake drums and bearings,
No compensation from RGM!!
On the plus side the D.I,D 520 chain handled this abuse well, and that included a round trip to Italy
I think the Scott oiler saved the day, helped take some of the heat out of the chain, and kept it well lubed.
Click to expand...
The 520 rear drums I've been buying from RGM are made that way, not machined from 530 - no shoulder like you mention. When did you buy yours?
 
Another question since this will be my first non-O/X ring chain purchase.

Do I need to soak/ boil the new chain or do they come ready to go?
 
Coolhands said:
Another question since this will be my first non-O/X ring chain purchase.

Do I need to soak/ boil the new chain or do they come ready to go?
Click to expand...
They come ready to go.

Personally, I’ve not boiled any chain for 30+ years! Modern chain lube is surprisingly good. I tend to clean with WD40 or similar when required and use a good chain lube. There’s a lot of solvents in chain lube, which aids penetration but needs to be taken into consideration.

The trick with chain lube is to apply it AFTER your ride, whilst the chain is warm, that further aids penetration. Then wipe off the excess, then leave to cool / soak in / allow solvents to evaporate (ideally overnight) before riding again.

If you spray n ride it goes f***ing everywhere !
 
I installed 530 x ring chains on the MK3 Commando, 650SS and 47 Vincent Rapide, all without any machining.
I was told that this isn't possible on the Vin, however it just dropped right on, same as with the other two bikes.

Glen
 
marshg246 said:
The 520 rear drums I've been buying from RGM are made that way, not machined from 530 - no shoulder like you mention. When did you buy yours?
Click to expand...
2016 and 2018 and 2019,

I don’t think they had a different casting for the 520, this wouldn't be cost effective compared to machining a 530,
But I could well be wrong?!
 
I never go cheap on chains
This one was one that snapped on my t160 shortly after I bought the bike
It was fitted by the previous owner
I believe it was an RK
There were about 9 cracked links when I checked it
 

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Note that the Renold website is UK customers only and only sells in one fixed length for each spec of chain, even for primary chains there is only one length so you have to cut and then add a link. As useful as a fart in a spacesuit.
 
marshg246 said:
Please state the overall width of the spring connecting link for the 530 chain.
Click to expand...
I've got one of the 530 chains in my workshop but have left my vernier in the office. They are designed to conform with ISO10190 though so will be at least to those dimensions.
I'm not back in the office until Wednesday I'll see if I can get hold of the actual dimensions in the meantime
 
Note that 1950s Nortons had 520 sized sprockets as did the first 650ss models.
The 650 ss produced about 60% more power than the 600cc model 99. Owners liked the bike but complained that the sprockets were wearing out quickly. The rear is particularly expensive!
Norton bumped the chain and sprockets up to 530 size and the rapid wear problem on the 650ss went away.
Tooth pressure on a 520 sprocket is 50% higher than on a 530.
Something to keep in mind when switching to a " long life" 520 sealed chain.

Glen
 
kommando said:
Note that the Renold website is UK customers only and only sells in one fixed length for each spec of chain, even for primary chains there is only one length so you have to cut and then add a link. As useful as a fart in a spacesuit.
Click to expand...
The shop is going to be opened up outside UK soon I understand.
I'm not involved with the shop side I'm afraid but have made it clear it needs to be international.

Having personally transcribed every replacement chain catalogue, I know there are too many individual lengths to stock every single individual length.
The decision was therefore made to sell a length long enough to cover every length for every classic bike since 1900.
Each action adds to the cost & personally, I don't know anyone with a classic bike that doesn't have the tools to split & connect a chain together.
For the primary chains, you get a rivet & spring link to make your own choice as to what you prefer.

I'd also like to make a point of the cranked links many people make a point of. They are available for the new chains but it's always recommended that you try & go for even pitches whenever possible.
Considering it only takes just under 8mm overall wheel adjustment to lose the need for a cranked link on a 5/8" pitch chain, I've yet to have a bike that didn't have enough adjustment.
I'm not saying cranked links are unsafe. I've got one on my Triton for many years but for the new chain, I'm going to be removing it for a single spring link.
 
worntorn said:
Note that 1950s Nortons had 520 sized sprockets as did the first 650ss models.
The 650 ss produced about 60% more power than the 600cc model 99. Owners liked the bike but complained that the sprockets were wearing out quickly. The rear is particularly expensive!
Norton bumped the chain and sprockets up to 530 size and the rapid wear problem on the 650ss went away.
Tooth pressure on a 520 sprocket is 50% higher than on a 530.
Something to keep in mind when switching to a " long life" 520 sealed chain.

Glen
Click to expand...
Issues:

1) Most of my customers are modern bike owners who think it's "cool" to be seen on an old Norton or Triumph. I'm lucky if I can get them to wipe their chain from time-to-time.
2) 530 chains do not fit Nortons. Generally, a standard duty 530 chain with the master link inserted outside in won't hit anything. Heavy duty chains do hit.
3) There are two companies in the US with 10B-1 chain but if you mention "motorcycle" they will not sell to you - the chain is considered industrial only.

X-Ring 520 chains resolve all three.

BTW, a 520-chain roller is 2/3 the width of a 530-chain roller so I would think the tooth pressure is 33% higher, not 50% higher but that's based only on logic - I have no idea which is correct. I am sure that in any size if the rollers aren't rolling due to lack of lube, the sprockets will wear faster.
 
If you think of the tooth profile in 1/8 inch wide increments, a 520 has 2 increments, a 530 has 3.
Consider tooth pressure to be a hypothetical 150 units of pressure ( use any unit)
A 520 sprocket has to bear that pressure on two 1/8" increments, so each increment is under 75 units of tooth pressure.
A 530 sprocket bears the pressure on three 1/8" increments, so each increment is under 50 units of tooth pressure.
75 is 50% greater than 50.

The 530 x ring DID drops right on standard MK3 sprockets, same with a 650ss.
Not sure about other models.

Glen
 
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