69 "S" Phoenix rises again

Actually only the bottom rear stud will interfere, the other 2 are well away from the chain unless it is real loose and chewing on the stator posts. I'll have to grind that one down to at least the top of the nut. I'm sure I would have caught that when I installed the chain, but then again.....

Thanks,
Dave
69S

Having an issue with the rear wheel and hub. When I attach all the parts including the brake drum which is really attached to the hub on the 69 with no bearing, I get a tight spot with rotation. Removing the brake drum which does not affect the spacing of the rear spindle, it goes away, so I must assume the rubbing is a result of the brake drum not being centered on the brake shoes. Hopefully when I get the rear brake on, I can press on the brake, tighten the spindle and maybe the shoes will center enough so there is no rubbing. At least the tyre is on and inflated and the security bolt is inside the beads. You can see what crappy shape the rear mudguard is in.

Suggestions appreciated.



Dave
69S

DogT said:

Suggestions appreciated.

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

New mudguard?





:mrgreen:

Got one?

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Got one?

Dave
69S

Click to expand...

If I did I would have already sent it to you by now...

Dave,
Glad to know others making similar discovery as I did trying
to center rear rim to spinal tube.
Realize the swing arm is a bit more angled on the RH side
to allow drive train shifted to LH ~3/8" for some chain to tire
clearance.

IIRC with rear rim centered on hub it will be ~3/8" to the L of
spine-stem mid line. Both my Combats came that way but
seems to have no influence on handling. So far all factory
set up i've checked 5 so far have ~3/8" off set to LH.
i made Peels new Al rim center to the frame spine.

The down and dirty way I center rear wheel is just
stick fingers either side of swing arm at front of tire
and diddle till they feel similar. Handy when out
with a flat and rear needs removed and replaced
on side of road. Forks are free to self center swing to
adapt to a slightly crocked rear wheel, but not so good
for the chain alignment.

My SV has engraved marker lines on either side of swing arm
by the adjuster slots to go by. Commandos have the slot
gap to judge by. Counting adjuster nut turns is a tedium
to do as must back em off to a common start then turn
and turn till chain tensioned then diddle some more
if not right first time tensioning. If not adjusted together
pretty close, the angle of axle will fool ya on final chain tension.

Do check the 3 studs chain clearance but I found it plenty
if you seated studs well and you photo looks like ya did.
There ain't but shear force on these so don't take much
to keep em tight. I prefer just blue moderate Loctite
than the hassle of lock tabs.

hobot

hobot,
Yo, thanks for the input
If my front steering spindle
is straight with the frame
I should be good. But I haven't
checked that.

The bottom rear stud in the chaincase
does interfere with the chain,
so I removed it before the more than adequate
red 271 loctite setup
and am going to grind it down
at least to the nut and then maybe both
to make sure the chain doesn't
hit the stud/nut.
I still think it is a good mod.

Now you've got me doing
the Dixie-speak thang

Dave
69s

I've mostly got 1950's south Fla. TV accent in speech but
easy to get ahead of grammar-spelling ability, especially
in neck worked out from various things. Easy day today
only re did rear tire mount to find a spoke leak and
most of each tire side walls.
Still may just wear it out as it ain't leaking out pores
half as much as pure race rubber that bubbles entire
surface to check why not holding air over night.

I'm sucking on others competence and successes to get
motivated in recovering poor '72 Trixie again, this
time down to crankshaft apart rebuild.
Main drag is to get shed cleared, tools organized,
then just a weekend or a few evenings, minus all the
detailing of a bike hanging up most of two years.
Front rim rusted but can't face another front re-spoke
this year or maybe forever.

hobot

In the interest of clearance, I cut off the bottom rear stud flush with the nut, run on all the way. The chain still hit the top of the bolt with good pressure on the chain, so I ground more off the stud and nut to arrive at a stud and nut larger than the bolt, thicker than a jam nut, but thinner than a standard nut. Now the chain hits the inside of the chaincase before it hits the stud/nut, so that is as good as I can do (chain tension not adjusted yet). Now red locktite the stud and blue locktite the nut so I don't have to use a tab washer under that nut. that hole was apparently damaged by the PO and is now a 5/16 and is still not a real tight fit into the crank case, hopefully the red locktite will do its job. I didn't have trouble with the original bolt and tab washer so it should be fine.



Dave
69S

DogT said:

In the interest of clearance, I cut off the bottom rear stud flush with the nut, run on all the way. The chain still hit the top of the bolt with good pressure on the chain, so I ground more off the stud and nut to arrive at a stud and nut larger than the bolt, thicker than a jam nut, but thinner than a standard nut. Now the chain hits the inside of the chaincase before it hits the stud/nut, so that is as good as I can do (chain tension not adjusted yet). 69S

Click to expand...

You could gain some more clearance by leaving out the original chaincase/crankcase paper gasket.

Leaving out the gasket would just allow me to run in the stud more. The clearance from the bolt top to the chain is purely determined by the thickness of the nut (without a washer) if the stud does not stick out of it.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Leaving out the gasket would just allow me to run in the stud more.
Dave
69S

Click to expand...

Not true I am affraid. Leaving out the gasket does give you more chaincase to chain clearance which you actually still required (the chaincase moves towards the crankcase but the chain remains in the same position).

Yes, I see what you mean, hadn't thought about that. Anyhow, I think I have plenty of clearance as it is.

Thanks,
Dave
69S

New NJB shocks came today and new "chromed" rear fender. Cleaned the rear fender with WD40 and Scotchbrite as best as I could, cleaned and put bondo on the really bad parts around the welded holes, sanded the whole thing with 100 and primed with filler and painted with "chrome" paint. This stuff doesn't hold up to even paint thinner (varsol) so I need to put some good clearcoat on the top. Mind you this is temporary until I can figure out what to do. The front one is barely acceptable and am still looking for replacements. Waiting on parts for the chaincase to put that together, but everything including the clutch plates have been test fitted, so it should all go together fine. Then comes the headlamp and the wiring.



Dave
69S

I and others have tested a number of clear coats, the best so far
is DupliColor Clear Wheel spray. Resists all motor sports fluids
but maybe brake fluid, nicest least change in brightness or under
paint color and best rub out polish finish.
http://www.levineautoparts.com/dupwheelpain.html

hobot

Thanks hobot,
I have been looking for gas resistant paint to no avail. When I painted the horn with some off brand pant and then put the clear coat on it, everything wrinkled up. Not nice. Local Automart did not have any duplicolor clear, but picked up a couple more blue Metal Specks which is what I used on the panels and plan on the tank. Maybe even the fenders if they look too bad!!! I did get some paint from this levine site for my P/U and it matched perfectly.

Things are going fast, at least for me, now.

Dave
69S

Primary chain, rotor, stator, clutch assembled. Was waiting for 06-0895 (clutch shaft spacer) to put between the mainshaft bushing and the clutch locating clip, which is supposed to keep the bushing from getting chewed up by the clip in case it moves out of the mainshaft like it did before. I also used permatex sleeve retainer on the mainshaft bushings to try to keep them from moving around.

Anyone have suggestions on getting that stator wire back through that hard little grommet? I thought about putting some silicon on the wire, but boy it is tight.



I reckon I could adjust the primary chain at this point and am thinking I will temporarily attach the drive chain and brake cable so I can tighten everything in the primary. Clutch plate will have to come off again to do that too. Clutch is totally original.

Got a fire sale timing cover and am going to make the cut-away timing cover to tighten up the camshaft nut and set the tension on the cam chain. It's got a bad spot on the top from a fire.



Thinking about removing the barrels to re-coat them with some DupliColor high performance Wheel coating clear to try to keep gas from eating the paint on them. This is all experimental.

Dave
69S

DogT said:

Anyone have suggestions on getting that stator wire back through that hard little grommet? I thought about putting some silicon on the wire, but boy it is tight.
Dave
69S

Click to expand...

I would try a hair dryer on the grommet to soften it up. You can use a heat gun but you have to be more careful. I used a hair dryer on the fork gaiters and that worked fine. Let me know what works for you as I'll be in the same predicament shortly...

Primary chain on first install can not be properly adjusted w/o the
drive chain and adjusters installed to first pull the slack out the
gear box adjusters rear ward by swing arm adjusters, then
pull proper slack in primary chain by the gear box adjuster.

One hot runing slack determined for sure, then check when
cold and can short cut the process a bit keeping in mind
the slack taken up by drive loads in use.

Its rare that barrels get any gasoline on them, oil for sure but any
extra paint on top is just more heat insulation though clear
does make em more shiny glossy. I'd leave barrels un clear
coated, at least till ya see how the Wheel Clear appeals
to you on other stuff. Its a bugger to remove, mostly
must sand off if not using brake fluid - which removes
about anything added to metal surfaces.

hobot

I checked the wheel coat silver today and it is not. It is really a gray color. Not impressed with the color at all. May be good with petrol, but there needs to be some trade off here. I remember gas dribbling out of the carbs with tickling, so that may get on the barrels. I can always take the barrels off and to my powder coater who wanted to powder coat them in "chrome" like my fork supports which look pretty good for "chrome" paint. Does anyone really know how hot the barrels get? I have not seen a definite measurement on that. I wonder what the original silver paint was?

Yes, I'll put the drive chain on and do a proper adjustment as it is going along.

Dave
69S