69 "S" Phoenix rises again

Tintin · Jun 4, 2010

DogT said:
I probably could have saved the $50 having the cases blasted ....

Just as a hint: Bead blasting changes the cast appearance quite significantly. I have engine cases with a bit of corrosion soda blasted which is just a bit more abrasive as dry ice (which on the other hand is perfect if the part only needs a thorough cleaning).

Tim

DogT · Jun 4, 2010

The guy that does my blasting also does powder coating, he did my frame and fork parts and it turned out real nice. He wanted to PC the cases too, but I wanted more of an original look. I realize it is going to be a PITA keeping it clean, but.... He wanted to PC my barrels too. Apparently the Harley guys do that. As far as making a blasting setup, I really don't have the space and I don't have plans on blasting anything else. So far I think the PC frame and all the blasting has cost me $425. That was the starting price from the shops in Manassas. This guy is in Front Royal and is only 20 miles away from me.

Yes, I put the spacer on the drive side of top trans bolt. I looked it up on OB to see which side it went on.

I know someone that does soda blasting, but he is in Stewarts Draft, which is about 2 1/2 hours away and it wasn't worth the time and gas and I understand it really doesn't remove rust, like from the barrels, but I understand it is nice on aluminum.

Today is the pistons and barrels depending on my time.

Dave
69S

Tintin · Jun 4, 2010

DogT said:
Today is the pistons and barrels depending on my time.

Pics of each and every bolt, please! It's perfect for my '70 Roadster resto..... :mrgreen:

Honestly, your documentation is greatly appreciated!

Tim

DogT · Jun 4, 2010

Timing gears, pistons and barrels on. Next to the swing arm and tyres. Have to wait on the head for re-work. Of course I put the barrels on the first time without the gasket, that was just a test fit (Yuk, yuk, everyone needs practice). I used a standard set of .69 cent SS hose clamps to compress the rings. Original nuts, Copy-Chrome plated (Caswell). No gasket sealer per Mick Hemmings. New GPM pistons and timing chain from Norvil. Re-worked the oil pump which was not bad, but improved end play. Original steel timing chain tensioner per the thread on that. Real seal from Phil at Fair Spares for the tach drive. I'll probably put the Hylomar gasket dressing on that gasket.

Dave
69S

Hobot · Jun 4, 2010

Dave, I kinda jumped in mid conversation here, w/o a close read
yet of prior posts, but seeing those glistening piston crowns
surrounded by bright clean barrel - made me gurgle-chuckle inside
and squirm in my seat. Yes you do good work.

Powder coat looks like candy coating IF you don't nick it.
Then leaves a groove scar though its thickness that no
mere spray on can fill in. I did Peel for the lesion,its
not the best stuff for a rough neck riding a Cdo all over.

Regardless of what you use none of them can withstand
an engine or cradle edge installing of a wrench point
or dropped tool or part or buck rub etc.

I vote plain automotive paint storing some for touch ups.
Thick clear coat to take on the road grit and handling
dullness that polishes right out or clean and re spray clear.
If mared to metal sand area, color it, dry it sand it,
clear coat polish then wax perfect again.

Not quite talked myself out of tub and sink refiniser
but for the bath and kitchen color selection.

hobot

DogT · Jun 5, 2010

Hobot,

Yes, I was in a big quandary about paint vs. PC. Paint at a shop was much more than the PC, they are all getting away from the environmental issues with paint. I could have painted it with rattle cans, but I did that before and was less than pleased with it, gas and oil just ate it right up and it too chipped real bad and repairs didn't look good. So I decided to PC. Given my age and all, I am not going to be hot-rodding this thing around these country roads. It will be a casual pavement rider, but that doesn't mean I won't enjoy the broad torque band of this bike.

Dave
69S

DogT · Jun 5, 2010

Swingarm installed. Those are old shocks, new ones are in the bank. The infamous horn bracket. I have misplaced the horn bolt somewhere around the room today, I know it is here, I just can't find it. I have even test fitted the rear fender and it mounts on the center bolt with the horn bracket and a bracket between the top shock mounts and the tail lamp and it seems to go together with no stress. Trouble is I need a new rear fender. I may paint the old one until I can find one. If anyone wants details on the horn mounting and the rear fender I can supply that too, it is a bit different than the '71, but I have seen '69's that are different than mine too.

Dave
69S

possm · Jun 5, 2010

Dave any chance of posting a photo of how the dzus fastener for the left side panel attaches to he frame.
Thanks Al

Scruff · Jun 6, 2010

Dave I like the silver paint you used on the cylinders. The silver I used has a slight metal flake finish but better than the other silver I used on some other parts, washes straight of with petrol.
Ian

DogT · Jun 6, 2010

Dzus fastener is on right (timing) side.

That silver is a Dupli-Color high temp (supposedly 1500 deg). I have found none of the aluminum or silver colored paints to be very durable. My test is carb cleaner and not much holds up to that including this silver paint. I didn't try petrol on it. We'll See

Dave
69S

possm · Jun 6, 2010

Is there a difference on the left side as the holes on my frame appear different?
Al

dave M · Jun 6, 2010

Possm, On mine the left side Dzus fastener fits on the frame through a hole in the same position on the mounting plate in a mirror-image of the right side. The rear panel mount is a bracket with two mounting holes and a peg for the rubber top-hat bush and is also a mirror image of the right.
Dave

B+Bogus · Jun 6, 2010

possm said:
Is there a difference on the left side as the holes on my frame appear different?
Al

Possm, As our bikes rubbed handlebars on the production line, I'm assuming you've got a Mk IIA with the plastic airbox?

The LH panel for the 'A' is different to all other marks, having a plastic Dzus fastener at the bottom of the panel.

Note that mine has become an interstate in the meantime!
Roadster bodywork still in prep.

Also, the battery carrier is (I think) unique to this model

Dave, apologies for the 'diversion'....

It looks like you're making real progress - Great to see an 'S' coming together - Excellent work so far

possm · Jun 7, 2010

Andy and everybody
I have four Nortons, and am just starting to assemble a 70 which came to me 70% complete and in may pieces there is a hole for a dzus fastener on the right side but on the left there are two smaller holes, on my 69 fastback there is a bracket for the side panel bolted to these holes but i think there should be a dzus fastener tere somewhere. sorry Dave for hijacking your thread.
Al

dave M · Jun 7, 2010

I had a similar problem with my bike which started life as a Fastback and thus had a different panel and mounting arrangement. I simply drilled the lower of the two holes to the same size as the large one on the right and this did the trick. If you wanted to be 100% sure you could put the panel in place and make sure that the hole lines up with the Dzus spring. It is possible to drill the hole on the bike when the battery tray and many other compenents are already fitted, so no inconvenient dissasembly required.

B+Bogus · Jun 7, 2010

Ahhh...!

I'm now looking for a 'Teaching Granny to suck eggs' smiley

possm · Jun 7, 2010

No problems here Andy, Dave the bike that i am doing evan though when i obtained it was in pieces and incomplete is matching numbers and with most of the origonal S/roadster bodywork and i don't beleive it has been majorly altered, but i have very little reference material for a 69/70 S/roadster my parts book is a fastback one with a supplement in the back with no pictures.

DogT · Jun 7, 2010

Al,

On mine, the dzus is on the right as you can see. The right panel has (had) space for a tool kit but the PO had removed the inside panel for some reason. The left side frame has 2 holes, the outside one is used for a fixed bolt and washer with a spacer to mount the LS panel. As far as I can tell, the inner hole is not used, I even looked at some old pictures and there is nothing in that hole. The left panel is fixed because the ignition switch is in it. This bike started life as an 'S', I got only a year after it was made and everything seemed pretty original, missing the centre stand and the finned valve covers were installed, plus the Brevettata handgrips. Yes, my spares book also has the supplement for the 'R' and 'S' in the back. I guess the main manual is for the Fastback and there are no pictures for the 'R' nor 'S' parts.

Dave

DogT · Jun 7, 2010

Installed centre stand so I could get this thing off the floor. It looks as though the spring is going to rub across the head of the bolt that holds the centre stand on. Is this typical? I have never had a centre stand, I have no experience with them. Should both bolts go through from the inside? Or does it matter except for the spring? The foot tab also hits the frame, you can see the padding I have between it now. I am thinking about epoxying a couple of hard rubber bumpers on the stand lip where it hits the stop so it won't wear a hole in the frame. I could also just grind off some of the foot tab until it doesn't hit.

Does this look right?

Dave
69S

DogT · Jun 7, 2010

I didn't hear it rub across the bolt as it went over, so it must be OK.

Dave
69S

69 "S" Phoenix rises again

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