1975 Commando 850 restoration

Hi Larry, I am also doing a Mk3 at present and am probably a bit ahead of where you are at, I purchased a new Andover loom and had major headaches with it, all of which are now sorted but it definitely was not fit and go! I to have had indicator problems, my indicators were new Lucas [wassel] and came with 23 watt bulbs, I had a new Lucas [wassel] flasher unit and with a test battery the system would flash normally twice and then speed up, I first changed to 21 watt bulbs no difference then tried a used flasher relay from a friends Commando which cured the problem, I went back to my supplier and advised him that I had a faulty unit and suggested that he send me a replacement unit but his reply was that's a waste of time they are all like it and that wassel advise to use 20 watt bulbs- who supplies 20 watt bulbs? I ended up fitting a unit from the local auto shop end of problem.
 
possm said:
Hi Larry, I am also doing a Mk3 at present and am probably a bit ahead of where you are at, I purchased a new Andover loom and had major headaches with it, all of which are now sorted but it definitely was not fit and go! I to have had indicator problems, my indicators were new Lucas [wassel] and came with 23 watt bulbs, I had a new Lucas [wassel] flasher unit and with a test battery the system would flash normally twice and then speed up, I first changed to 21 watt bulbs no difference then tried a used flasher relay from a friends Commando which cured the problem, I went back to my supplier and advised him that I had a faulty unit and suggested that he send me a replacement unit but his reply was that's a waste of time they are all like it and that wassel advise to use 20 watt bulbs- who supplies 20 watt bulbs? I ended up fitting a unit from the local auto shop end of problem.
Click to expand...
When I fit my new loom from British Wiring, I also had problems with the CNW indicators and flashing rates. I went with a load sensitive Narva flasher and all is good.
 
L.A.B. said:
Your picture seems to show the front signals wired as running lights as both are on together or something isn't connected correctly (or are they LED bulbs as that can result in both sides working simultaneously unless the warning light bulb wiring is modified?) which isn't standard so are unlikely to work properly in that configuration, also unlikely to flash unless the rear signals are connected and LED bulbs would need an LED flasher relay or additional resistors.

The sleeve connection at the bottom of the headlamp shell is there to provide a ground to harness red for the front direction indicators and is not a 'headlamp ground' as often thought so ensure that the connection between the shell and harness red is secure.

Also, what is the additional thinner (but heavier than standard?) gauge red wire connected to battery positive (for electronic ignition perhaps?)?
Connecting a thinner gauge (than the starter positive cable) wire would defeat the object of not connecting the harness positive ring terminal if the electrical system can use it as a ground/return to battery positive (unless it has a fuse to prevent the starter motor current burning the wire out?) unless, for instance, it is only a ground for electronic ignition where it has no connection to the harness or 'frame'.
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The sleeve connection is where I believe I messed up. At the very least. Still going to get new signals and ground them. Yes, the other red wire is for the electronic ignition and is fused on the negative side. I also fused the harness with a 15a mini fuse.
 
Pictures of my fuse job.
 

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Dave I would suggest that the British Wiring looms actually come from AutoSparks UK which apparently started British Wiring, my understanding is that Autosparks supply Andover.
 
This does not seem right to me. My rear sprocket sits proud of the hub, should it not be flush with the hub? Tried to remove the lock ring to check and see what's wrong and I broke my ring spanner. Any ideas?
 

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Larry S said:
This does not seem right to me. My rear sprocket sits proud of the hub, should it not be flush with the hub?
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No, often queried by Mk3 owners but the gap is normal.
www.accessnorton.com

Mk3 Rear Sprocket hub gap seems too much

I am changing out the rear sprocket on Mk3. Bought new sprocket off eBay vendor fdmc1984. Now with fit up the gap at rear hub seems too much 0.070 - 0.080" Went back and fitted old sprocket and duplicated same gap. I do not remember any gap before. Is this clearance standard fit up on a Mk3...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
Larry S said:
Tried to remove the lock ring to check and see what's wrong and I broke my ring spanner.
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Some versions of the MK3 manual say the lock ring is "left-hand" thread but it is RIGHT-hand.
 
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Also, the cush drive rubbers in your pictures aren't fitted correctly.
They should be fitted like this (so there's cush rubber for both drive and overrun).
1975 Commando 850 restoration
 
Last edited:
L.A.B. said:
Also, the cush drive rubbers in your pictures aren't fitted correctly.
They should be fitted like this (so there's cush rubber for both drive and overrun).
1975 Commando 850 restoration
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Thanks for all the great info. I’m very relieved that I don’t have to remove the lock ring to repair this “non-problem”. I will relocate those cush drive rubbers and call it good.
 
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:)

Larry S said:
I will relocate those cush drive rubbers and call it good.
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While you have the rubbers out it can be a good idea to stick the backplate to the hub with silicone sealant or similar to prevent it rattling which is a common Mk3 problem.
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
 
L.A.B. said:
:)



While you have the rubbers out it can be a good idea to stick the backplate to the hub with silicone sealant or similar to prevent it rattling which is a common Mk3 problem.
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
Click to expand...
Thank you for the tip. Silicone it shall be.
 
Relocated my cush drive rubbers correctly. Thanks LAB. I found that slicked up with plumbers silicone and starting with the larger rubber followed by its smaller mate worked best. It was still a rough job even with the lube.
 

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Major progress milestone! Ladies and gentlemen, I have a roller! It's been a year and two months since it's had two wheels. I am freaking happy.
 

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Larry,
Great job on the cush rubbers, PITA for sure - I used rubber grease and a fabbed pushing tool to get mine all in. Thumbs etc weren't up to the job.

Ctefeh
 
Esmerela said:
Hi
Regarding the power supply : A computer power supply works really well black and yellow cables on a HDD plug my t160 tank below power from a pc power supply.

View attachment 75809
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Esmerela said:
Hi
Regarding the power supply : A computer power supply works really well black and yellow cables on a HDD plug my t160 tank below power from a pc power supply.

View attachment 75809
Click to expand...
Does evap-o-rust affect paint? My 850 tank is beautiful original paint but some old gas has made the inside look terrible.
rScotty
 
Went to Autozone last week and ordered an oil filter by cross referencing some filter numbers I found on this forum. Got a good hit on a number so I told them to order and call when it came in. Picked it up yesterday. It's going to look really pretty hidden where it goes! Lol!
 

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I ordered all the vinyl decals for my tank and side covers last night from somewhere in Australia. We’ll see how that goes. I also ordered one of those cheap filler caps off eBay. Well see how that goes also.
 
More progress. Filled all my fluids today. Engine, gearbox, primary and fork oil all good. I also filled and bled both front and rear brakes. Finally got my wiring sorted and everything is working correctly. Happy, happy about that! Things are going well.
 

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