Larry S
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Thank you very much for sorting this out for me. I will insulate the double red ring connector also, thanks.
1975 Commando 850 restoration
- Thread starter Larry S
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Larry S
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Cleaned up my seat. I think it came out pretty good. Before and after. The gunk that was on the seat was the remains of the back of my owners manual. It all came off by tedious scraping with my fingernail. PITA!
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The standard Mk3 rectifier is the 2-diode 2DV 406 which doesn't have (or require) a ground (so there's no red wire in the harness section to the rectifier), therefore, a ground connection to the (+) terminal of the encapsulated 4-diode rectifier in your picture isn't necessary but I believe it does no harm.
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Richard Tool
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The concern I would have ( for the front rotor at least) is trueing the rotor faces to the mounting face ( where the rotor meets the wheel hub) as these rotors are non floating and you will want to eliminate any swashplating.
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I brought a Mk 3 home on Sunday and it had that same sissy bar on it along with a king/queen seat! Sat in a shed for 11 years .
I’m going to start a thread of my own. I already have a 73 850 that I’ve owned since 1978.
Larry S
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Good luck with your build. Be prepared to SPEND some money! All worth it though.
Fast Eddie
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Starting to look like a motorsickle !
Since I did similar, I’m becoming quite a fan of painted mudguards vs polished.
Richard Tool
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Make that three !
Larry S
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Installed a new battery and tested my electrical system with mixed results. Turning the ignition switch two clicks to the right, this is what I have. I have hi and lo beam headlight, taillight, and all my console lights. My horn and neutral switch are both working also. Turn signals are installed on the front but do not work properly. I have read that problems with your turn signals are often resolved with a proper ground. I'm going to order new turn signals for front and rear and install a proper ground to see if that cures the problem. I haven't tested brake lights because the system isn't filled with fluid yet. All and all, not bad so far.
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Your picture seems to show the front signals wired as running lights as both are on together or something isn't connected correctly (or are they LED bulbs as that can result in both sides working simultaneously unless the warning light bulb wiring is modified?) which isn't standard so are unlikely to work properly in that configuration, also unlikely to flash unless the rear signals are connected and LED bulbs would need an LED flasher relay or additional resistors.
The sleeve connection at the bottom of the headlamp shell is there to provide a ground to harness red for the front direction indicators and is not a 'headlamp ground' as often thought so ensure that the connection between the shell and harness red is secure.
Also, what is the additional thinner (but heavier than standard?) gauge red wire connected to battery positive (for electronic ignition perhaps?)?
Connecting a thinner gauge (than the starter positive cable) wire would defeat the object of not connecting the harness positive ring terminal if the electrical system can use it as a ground/return to battery positive (unless it has a fuse to prevent the starter motor current burning the wire out?) unless, for instance, it is only a ground for electronic ignition where it has no connection to the harness or 'frame'.
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