1973 850 Rebuild

What LAB means is why not re-title this thread to ‘1973 850 rebuild’ or similar? Then just keep this same thread going throughout the whole build?
 
Time Warp said:
That is quite normal and its your thread to do as you wish.
#
There is no need to machine a flat in the clamp, all I did was counterbore the top face to suit a brass washer.
Most likely the flat is done because it is easier. (I also did not want open holes so made my own being cheap with 2 x 6 mm and 1 x 8 mm fasteners)

The thrust fastener pushes on the spindle (at the flats) via the drilled holes in the cradle tube.
The clamp being full circumference is self supporting under that applied pressure.

View attachment 20096
Click to expand...
 
Thank you.
Fast Eddie said:
What LAB means is why not re-title this thread to ‘1973 850 rebuild’ or similar? Then just keep this same thread going throughout the whole build?
Click to expand...
Upon that suggestion, Yes.
Renamed to '1973 850 rebuild" is requested. Hopefully it would help out those who follow
Jerry
 
Mofosheee said:
Head Steady.
Are the stock one's sufficient or is there now a preferred, more popular version that does the job, not costing its weight in gold. I know they're out there.
Click to expand...

I do not think the stock box version of the OEM head steady was that bad.
The two triangular pressed side plates can bend so have to wonder if a budget improvement might be using four plates (two back to back each side, T.I.G stitched)
With the flanged side of the inner plates then against the 'box, it would need some form of spacers as would the upper bobbin, it would still most likely have clearance in the fuel tank recesses.

The Dave Taylor unit is most likely the most common aftermarket version (by cost ?) and the Jim Comstock / NYC Norton version and Norvil / Norman White Isolastic type up from there cost wise.

Being cheap I would make my own, perhaps with a Vernier remote adjuster so it could be fine tuned on the road.
There might be a possibility based on the JS vibration squiggle tests the head steady force could be applied to suit the elliptical direction based on BF. (lol)
 
Last edited:
Mofosheee said:
behold.............
www.ebay.com

Norton 750 850 Commando Dunstall Exhaust Mufflers #3 1786 | eBay

Looks to be in okay used condition.
www.ebay.com
or
www.ebay.com

Norton Dunstall Original Exhaust Mufflers Head Pipes & Cross Over 1561 | eBay

Looks to be in okay used condition.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
If you like the Dunstall muffler's styling, why not buy a pair of Emgo replicas? I've used them on over half a dozen bikes. Quality is good considering the price. See

Amazon product ASIN B002OPKU9A
The internals are removable, so that you can either remove the glass packing, or replace it when it blows out.

Regarding the head steady, consider buying the spring & mounting plate to upgrade the box style head steady to Mk III version. Worntorn has a nice write up on proper adjustment of this set up. If you can't find it on the forum, PM me.

Charlie K
 
Dropped the remaining engine components (cases, cylinders, crank) at JC's yesterday.
Still in acquisition mode for parts for my incomplete basket case focusing on chassis parts and engine/trans mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)
The hardware specs are listed on the Andover website. Would I be better off obtaining these items from Andover or could I find equivalent from stateside sources? Need front forks and prefer to obtain ones manufactured in the UK if possible as with all parts.
 
Mofosheee said:
The hardware specs are listed on the Andover website. Would I be better off obtaining these items from Andover or could I find equivalent from stateside sources?
Click to expand...

Unified (UNF, UNC, etc.) you should be able to buy from hardware stores or fastener suppliers.

For British BSF, BSW, BA, BSC/CEI, etc. (and Unified):

British Tools & Fasteners

britishfasteners.com britishfasteners.com
 
Mofosheee said:
Dropped the remaining engine components (cases, cylinders, crank) at JC's yesterday.
Still in acquisition mode for parts for my incomplete basket case focusing on chassis parts and engine/trans mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)
The hardware specs are listed on the Andover website. Would I be better off obtaining these items from Andover or could I find equivalent from stateside sources? Need front forks and prefer to obtain ones manufactured in the UK if possible as with all parts.
Click to expand...

@Mofosheee,
I have a transmission top bolt with adjuster yoke assy & end lug (no spacer) sitting on the shelf. "make offer" Postage would be $7 max.
IMG_7067.JPG


PM me and I'll send you a list of all the Commando stuff that I still have.
 
Mofosheee said:
Dropped the remaining engine components (cases, cylinders, crank) at JC's yesterday.
Still in acquisition mode for parts for my incomplete basket case focusing on chassis parts and engine/trans mounting hardware (nuts and bolts)
The hardware specs are listed on the Andover website. Would I be better off obtaining these items from Andover or could I find equivalent from stateside sources? Need front forks and prefer to obtain ones manufactured in the UK if possible as with all parts.
Click to expand...
Fred and Ella

 
Fork stanchions are not your typcial 'Show Chrome.' They are a 'Hard Chrome.'
There happens to be a 'Hard Chrome' shop right around the corner from me.
So I hit em up. Right off he wasn't interested, wasn't worth his time.
I pushed a little and got a price that proved he wasn't interested....:eek:
 
With that advice, ordered a new pair from Old Brits....................and your thoughts / opinions on rear suspension?
Lubrication of swing arm suggestions would also be appreciated. (I know it's been beat to death) I read of an oil mist system that used crank case vapors

Thanks again!
 
Mofosheee said:
Lubrication of swing arm suggestions would also be appreciated. (I know it's been beat to death)
Click to expand...

So you'd like to beat it to death some more? :)

The need for a constant supply of lubricant to the pivot is unnecessary in my opinion.
 

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