1961 BSA Super Rocket Rebuild

swooshdave said:

https://restorationplating.com

Show quality and show quality prices. One of the guys in our club uses them and he's "meticulous".

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Thanks. I will get a quote

Jerry Doe said:

Thanks. I will get a quote

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You might want to take a shot of your favorite whiskey first.

You could try Burton bike bits in the UK which with current xchange rates would be considerably cheaper.

I've had lots of chrome done by this guy. Not cheap but not the most expensive. Still uses old style chroming methods. If you call leave message znd he'll call back. Does chroming for guys in Corvette club of America. Didn't know if you had picked a shop yet or not.

A quick update on the BSA.

The motor needs work that I cannot perform in my garage. I was thinking about sending parts out to get work done and then assembling it as usual. I met Steve Jobs (www.jobcycle.com) who has been rebuilding A10 motors for 40 years and comes highly recommended. The motor is going to be shipped to Steve. He will take care of everything, including magneto rebuild, crank grind, all bushes bearings, re-bore etc. Luxury. Been working on a shipping crate all weekend. That's not done yet and is turning into a huge ordeal . Hope to find time to complete this crate in a day or 2. Then I got to figure out how to ship it to the east coast.


I started getting into the gearbox. Its very rusty inside. I am soaking it and will carry on taking it apart next weekend. I expect its going to need a lot of work too. I will assess if its work I can do myself and if not will send it to Steve.



The frame and swinging arm came out quite well. I used 3m fine paste. Someone had it coated before, along with the swinging arm and some other parts. The powder coating was dull, but cleaned up well. The old swinging arm spindle was shot, so in with a new one along with new bushes. Rear shocks are on and gradually getting hardware. Got some stainless for engine mounts.



I am awaiting parts for the front end (coming from UK to US). Hard chromed stanchions, tapered head bearings, bushes seals and progressive springs and other parts for the front end on the way. Ordered a new left fork leg from Baxters along with some stainless oil seal holders. I have some Eddie Dow replica dampers. SRM were out, so I purchased these from eBay (Australia), very well made.


The oil tank, toolbox, headlight shell and tank are on the way to Brent.

Looking good Jerry, you’re not messing around are you?!

Those BSA frames are a good looking design IMHO.

Jerry Doe said:

...Hope to find time to complete this crate in a day or 2. Then I got to figure out how to ship it to the east coast.

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Jerry, pick up a heavy-duty plastic tote from a local home improvement store, line it with 1/4" plywood, then pack the engine in using stiff foam underneath and around the sides and on top.

Drill and zip-tie the lid around the lip; 2 or 3 places on each end, 3 or 4 places on each side.

FedEx ground has a good rate using Ground or Home delivery options.

I have shipped MANY engines and gas tanks using FedEx and plastic totes. ZERO issues.

That wooden crate you are building will cost double or more. Wood is heavy, and you have way too much free space on top and sides, so dimensionally more expensive to ship.

grandpaul said:

Jerry, pick up a heavy-duty plastic tote from a local home improvement store, line it with 1/4" plywood, then pack the engine in using stiff foam underneath and around the sides and on top.

Drill and zip-tie the lid around the lip; 2 or 3 places on each end, 3 or 4 places on each side.

FedEx ground has a good rate using Ground or Home delivery options.

I have shipped MANY engines and gas tanks using FedEx and plastic totes. ZERO issues.

That wooden crate you are building will cost double or more. Wood is heavy, and you have way too much free space on top and sides, so dimensionally more expensive to ship.

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Yes I know it’s more expensive cause of the wood. I was reading articles about sending engines in plastic containers/ totes, saying some have had major problems with breaking the containers. Have you got any photos on how you did it? Since I got this far with the crate, I might as well finish it and get a shipping quote

It may have to do with WHO handles the plastic tote.

It also MIGHT be due to extreme cold.

That is why I always line them with plywood and stiff packing foam.

I will see if I can find any photos.

grandpaul said:

It may have to do with WHO handles the plastic tote.

It also MIGHT be due to extreme cold.

That is why I always line them with plywood and stiff packing foam.

I will see if I can find any photos.

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Holy crap. UPS want $1,461 to ship it from Denver to Connecticut
Its 130lbs 18x18x24

These rates are better:

Less than $150 for same thing

Jerry Doe said:

Holy crap. UPS want $1,461 to ship it from Denver to Connecticut
Its 130lbs 18x18x24

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I have a FedEx online account, and I have never paid more than $1 / lb. to ship engines, exhaust pipes, and other large/heavy items (within the US)

You are entering something wrong!

grandpaul said:

I have a FedEx online account, and I have never paid more than $1 / lb. to ship engines, exhaust pipes, and other large/heavy items (within the US)

You are entering something wrong!

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I called them and that is what they told me based upon the info. Since I have nearly finished crating I am going to ship like this using Parcel Monkey. Its then 150.
I might call FedEx too. One things for sure, it isnt going to fall out.

Parcel Monkey are good. It cost $174 to ship from Denver to Connecticut. Was picked up by FedEx yesterday. It weighed in at 145lbs.

Unfortunately, I really screwed up my already screwed up back, building that crate and setting the motor in it. All I want to do is get in the garage to work on the bike, but it’s going to take a day or 2 more to recover.

I will be focusing on the gearbox and front end next.
Stay tuned...

I shipped a T120 engine back east using the @grandpaul method, went FedEx Ground. Less than $150. If you insist on the wooden crate then ship it freight not via one of the retail carriers.

I won't post all of the images but the album is here:







The crate with the yellow lid was from either Costco or Staples. You can just zip tie through the holes to secure the lid. People who have complained about breaking containers either used too cheap of boxes or didn't secure the engine good enough. If the plastic gets too cold it can crack too, but not if you use a good quality crate. Gorilla Tape is insane. Overall it was probably overkill but this was a T120TT engine so even as a core it was worth a good bit. Ok, a lot.

Hey, stinky old tennis shoes for packing!

Why didn't I think of that?

A quick update on the BSA A10 restore.

Gearbox: After checking everything, pretty much all gearbox internals are not useable. I thought about buying used gearboxes on eBay in the hope of finding a good one, but they are probably all bad. Also, Mike thanks for sending me your spare gearbox. I have decided I cannot take any chances. Now after taking out a second mortgage on the house, new layshaft, all gears and bearings/ bushes are on the way from Baxter cycles.

Frame: I have the swinging arm on with new bushes and spindle. Also got new shocks. I have fitted the battery carrier. I have fitted SRM tapered steering head bearings. New fork stanchions and bushes as well as oil seals and stainless seal holders. New progressive springs, gaiters and new chrome headlight ears. I had to buy one new fork leg (Baxters). Fork legs were powder coated. Yokes coated. Eddie Dow fork dampers. New stainless hardware. I put the old wheels on so I can move the bike around now.

I will be focusing on the gearbox next. Here are some pics so far.

Rolling Chassis - The first major milestone in a restoration/build!

Well done.

I love the old transmission, like the dregs of a bad breakfast cereal. I had a similar one, but had been in the Texas heat, so all moisture had evaporated away, leaving only the dry crunchy bits in a mound of rust dust.

grandpaul said:

Rolling Chassis - The first major milestone in a restoration/build!

Well done.

I love the old transmission, like the dregs of a bad breakfast cereal. I had a similar one, but had been in the Texas heat, so all moisture had evaporated away, leaving only the dry crunchy bits in a mound of rust dust.

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Hi Paul,

Hope you are starting to feel better and that you have power.

Yes, even though the wheels need rebuilding, its good to see it like that. Its a very nice shaped frame. I am excited to get the transmission rebuilt. I have everything I need except a mainshaft. My old one might actually be ok. I need to check how the new gears are on it.

Get well mate!!

Looking good!

The size of that mallet next to your tapered races is a cause for concern.

Re gearbox: I suppose you will come away with a spare shell after all this effort and expense.

Slick