Engine won't fire.

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Oct 7, 2024
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Hi all, i shorted the + terminal of the battery on the engine casing and now the engine won't fire. I sent the ecu to Stu and he confirmed all good. I replaced all relays checked all fuses all good. Replaced crank position sensor plus cam sensor, also head temp sensor. There is a spark at plugs fuel pump primes and fuel injectors are working. Engine turns over on good battery but will not start, so what can it be, has anyone made this mistake with similar result and know the cure, help!
 
Hi all, i shorted the + terminal of the battery on the engine casing and now the engine won't fire. I sent the ecu to Stu and he confirmed all good. I replaced all relays checked all fuses all good. Replaced crank position sensor plus cam sensor, also head temp sensor. There is a spark at plugs fuel pump primes and fuel injectors are working. Engine turns over on good battery but will not start, so what can it be, has anyone made this mistake with similar result and know the cure, help!
Kill button and fuel in the tank, micro switch on clutch lever. Side stand switch..
 
Hi Chaz , Can you tell us what year the machine is and what was the initial damage from the arc over that you had ? Clearly there is something wrong , so you may have to do more testing. Did the battery need to be replaced ? With a large reverse polarity applied to the bike's earth , you may have blown a diode .
 
Kill button and fuel in the tank, micro switch on clutch lever. Side stand switch..
Yep I know bout all them , side stand switch you link across outer two wires , ( my switch was ruined by oil ) clutch lever caught me out after bicycle lent against it .
 
Hi guy's thanks for your replys, clutch switch works, side stand switch ok, fuel fine.
The bike was working fine till i put on charge with i must admit a dodgy set up. I have wires linked to the terminals under the tank which have simple connectors on the ends tied to the frame then i use another wire plugged into these with bare bullet end connectors which dangle down near the engine casing, I then attach these to the charger clamps with a piece of cardboard behind to avoid contact, however i got sloppy and removed charger clamps but this wire still connected to + terminal touched engine casing for just a couple of seconds.
And here i am with a non starting bike.
Has all the life signs of a starter, pump prime, spark at plugs fuel at injectors, lights on clocks starter turning but will not fire.
 
Oh yes it's a 2015 model first batch to arrive in Queensland. And till now very reliable, only job i had to do recently was wire the two can chain tensioner retaining bolts together so they don't slaken.
 
When you are spinning it over does it do anything, like pop or misfire?
So the cable that touched the casing was direct to the terminal and unfused?
Was it running after you did the cam chain adjuster bolts?
 
and you are sure you are getting spark? There is a diode in the front cam sensor but doubtful that would blow as its going to the ECU.

The possibility of not getting a bang, pop or anything with having fuel and spark even with the timing off is almost impossible since the sensors are what send the trigger to the plugs, basically.

Also a momentary touch of the positive wire isn't the worst thing in the world but will certainly fry an ecu if not careful. But if you have spark then its not the ECU even without it being checked.

I would double check those items first. Fuel, spark, air.
 
Thanks for your responce, i changed the cam sensor just incase. I'm going to change the fuel in tank and check air filter. I sent ecu to Stu and it checked out ok. It is most odd that there is a spark at plugs and the injectors are working, i checked the injector signal connectors with a plug in light and both were flashing. When i remove plug they are damp with petrol, it may be duff fuel.
I will get too it tomorrow and report back. Cheers for now.
 
Thanks for your responce, i changed the cam sensor just incase. I'm going to change the fuel in tank and check air filter. I sent ecu to Stu and it checked out ok. It is most odd that there is a spark at plugs and the injectors are working, i checked the injector signal connectors with a plug in light and both were flashing. When i remove plug they are damp with petrol, it may be duff fuel.
I will get too it tomorrow and report back. Cheers for now.
Have you tried new plugs?
 
Yep brand new iridium plugs and which have a good spark.
It's morning here and about to start changing the fuel and a few other things, will post result later on.
 
I know it's obvious, but if it has fuel and spark it will splutter....hopefully into life! Therefore, I'd concentrate on those
 
I have these plug in light indicators designed to check the operation of the injector signal connectors, both are flashing away when i try to fire engine.
Plus i have fitted new injectors to be on the safe side.
 
Noid lights got me in bother at Ford, and had me sent on a diag refresher course for my Masters 😆
I was doing an assessment, where we had a couple days of tests and tasks to complate. I had an engine test rig, "customer reports engine misfire". Instead of following the symptom based guided Ford wants to hold your hand route via etis/ids, I requested a gas analyser. Fired the engine rig up. No excess HC. Then asked for a noid light set.....they found one, I plugged it in...no pulse from injector 1....pulled the boot back and found the cut wire. Perfectly diagnosed faster than it took them to find the lights for me....but they weren't happy that I should dare to think out of their box 🙄

And yeah, ecu was fine....plugged it into my Café Racer.....fired straight up no problem, so posted it back. Wonder if it could have damaged the seperate tilt circuit though, come to think of it 🤔
 
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