New starter dead

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone I got my 75 Mk3 out of winter hibernation today, I started it on the kick start as I always do when it is cold rode approx 10 miles to fill up fuel and when coming to restart I thought give the tart start a go it was fitted new last year pressed the button and dead nothing so back to kicking again !!! Can anyone suggest where to start trying diagnose and fix this, the starter was fitted new at the end of 2021

 

[worntorn]

Have you tried wiggling the starter thumb switch when pressed?

Glen

 

[L.A.B.]

Can anyone suggest where to start trying diagnose and fix this, the starter was fitted new at the end of 2021

Which "new starter"?
Wosp? dynodave/Norvil? Other?

According to this thread, it had the old starter or an unknown starter in Feb. 2022.

1975 mk3 interstate about to purchase

Hi again everyone been missing since I thought I had given up and sold my triton 4 or 5 years back but then I had a brainwave and thought electric start classic the T160 is to heavy so lets give a commando a try hence the heading, I am led to believe that the original starters on these never...

www.accessnorton.com

Which solenoid? Original Prestolite? Other?

Does the solenoid click when you press the starter button?

 

[chrisf1]

No it does nothing at all when button pressed and yes it is a wasp starter

 

[L.A.B.]

No it does nothing at all when button pressed and yes it is a wasp starter

Wosp

WOSP LMS843 - Norton Commando MkIII Electric Starter Motor | AMP-Starters

WOSP LMS843 - Norton Commando MkIII Electric Starter Motor.Please note, All WOSP products are now built to order with a typical lead time of 3 - 5 working days for most starters from the date of ordering. As such, these units are not available on an Express dispatch or Next Day delivery. Please...

www.amp-starters.co.uk

Ok, so if you aren't hearing the solenoid click then it's not operating which could be due to a dud or discharged battery, faulty solenoid or the power from the starter button circuit (white/red) isn't getting to the solenoid.
Edit: ...or the (Prestolite?) solenoid (metal plate) has become isolated from earth/ground?

 

[dobba99]

What solenoid is fitted? the prestolite ones are shite, Ive had two fail, The lucas mini solenoid works and bolts straight in. How old is the wiring? when was the switch gear last serviced? clapped out battery will still allow the bike to start on the kickstart but not on the button. Check all connections are secure, a dodgy connection can give similar symptoms as a dud battery. Go through the electrics working methodically.

 

[chrisf1]

Thanks for that info LAB I wiil nvestigate tomorrow

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone first I will get a few queries answered battery good and fully charged, the solenoid as far as I can tell is mounted to a triangular plate under the seat and I cannot see enough of it to say anything about it, and the best news of all is I have just been to the garage and pressed the magic button again and away she went so I am leaning towards corrosion or bad connection in the button as I did manipulate it while trying it, so the swichgear has to be my first examination and I have no experience with this at all, shoud I remove the master cylinder first or is there an easy way to do this without having to bleed the front brake yet again, and is there a procedure tried and tested for cleaning and tidying this so I am told unobtainable item, many thanks everyone Chris

 

[L.A.B.]

shoud I remove the master cylinder first

Yes, the master cylinder must Edit: [should preferably] be removed (4 screws) before the two switch cluster sections are separated.

or is there an easy way to do this without having to bleed the front brake yet again

You don't have to detach the hydraulic hose from the master cylinder, just remove the 4 screws that attach it to the switch cluster.

and is there a procedure tried and tested for cleaning and tidying this so I am told unobtainable item,

To dismantle the actual starter button switch (after removing the kill switch plate) you need to remove the fibre cover that is 'riveted' in place to reach the switch contacts. You will also have to remove the kill switch contact board (bottom of the picture) to remove the switch assembly.

 

[L.A.B.]

Also, take care not to lose the contact plate and backing spring from the nylon kill switch sliding contact as you remove the starter switch.

 

[chrisf1]

Many thanks again LAB will start surgery tommorrow

 

[L.A.B.]

And, you could find the starter switch power is a grey wire (as in the previous pictures) that runs to the headlamp harness connector (white) or, it might have a short white wire from the kill switch soldered connection.

 

[L.A.B.]

Correction
I said previously, that the master cylinder "must" be removed first, however, that's not entirely correct because the upper half of the switch cluster can be removed with the master cylinder still attached to the lower section but it is much easier to work on the switch cluster with the master cylinder detached.

 

[chrisf1]

Hi again everyone I have fallen at the first hurdle, I have removed the master cylinder and cable tied it to the other side of the handlebars and then tried to undo the 2 screws under the throttle and switchgear unit and cannot budge them they appear to be like nuts with a flat head screw slot across a hole in the middle which I assume is to allow a stud thread to tighten but anyway this wierd and wonderful idea will not allow me to get a decent bite with a screwdriver to undo them has anyone a solution to this problen or is there a special tool I have not got at the moment it has me stumped many thanks Chris

 

[L.A.B.]

tried to undo the 2 screws under the throttle and switchgear unit...

There should be 3 screws?

...and cannot budge them they appear to be like nuts with a flat head screw slot across a hole in the middle which I assume is to allow a stud thread to tighten but anyway this wierd

They would normally be Pozi pan head screws.

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - SWITCH CLUSTER SCREW SET (850MK3 ONLY) (17 pieces) - 06.7366

SWITCH CLUSTER SCREW SET (850MK3 ONLY) (17 pieces)

andover-norton.co.uk

 

[chrisf1]

I cannot really see them clearly but if they are posi heads they will not grip at all so may be drilling out, you say 3 screws holding it in situ I am not with the bike at the moment but I could only see 2 one front and one back where is the 3rd positioned thanks

 

[L.A.B.]

you say 3 screws holding it in situ I am not with the bike at the moment but I could only see 2 one front and one back where is the 3rd positioned thanks

Cap heads/Allens fitted here, not Pozis. Maybe the 3rd. screw (smaller than the other two) is missing.:

 

[chrisf1]

I have just found a new complete unit from feked.com so hopefully when it arrives that will cure the problem

 

[L.A.B.]

I have just found a new complete unit from feked.com so hopefully when it arrives that will cure the problem

This?

Electrical :: Switches :: Horn/Kill Switch :: Triumph/Norton Right Hand Kill / Lighting Switch Assembly With Throttle Rotor - Electric Start Models

Triumph/Norton Right Hand Kill / Lighting Switch Assembly With Throttle Rotor - Electric Start Models. T140ES, TSS, TSX, Norton Commando MK3. Start button + OFF/RUN toggle switch + headlamp / pilot light. OEM: 60-7462, 60-7328, 06-5929, 35317, 35318

www.feked.com

Do you have bullet connectors and sleeves because you will have to cut off the harness plugs (assuming that hasn't been done already) and fit bullet connectors (or cut the bullets off the Sparx and fit the matching plugs)?

 

[chrisf1]

I have not yet gone in that far but one way or another it will go on thanks for all your help LAB you have been great as in past occassions