73 frame 74 Engine Commando 850. First Start Since 1991 Thanks to Many of You

Status
Not open for further replies.
MichaelB said:
With the compressor, flatten or put a little negative camber on the spring, set in place and install the circlip.
Make sure the clip fully seats in the groove. Slowly release the compressor. Double check circlip is fully seated.
I don't see how it can be done without a compressor..
Click to expand...
I have the compressor, was just struggling with getting the circlip back in. I figured it out though...just put one end in and walk it around. I was trying to put the whole thing in at once.

That's what I get for being from Tennessee ;)
 
After the circlip is in, I always put a screw driver in the exposed slot, and give it a firm tap in the "unwind" direction to ensure that it is well seated. It is surprising how much it moves sometimes when you "seat" it.
 
Last edited:
the primary case cover is missing the two dowels. Not sure why. Are these easy to replace with something or do I need to order them?
 
MarkDeaton said:
Thank you. Any idea of the exact length? Looks to be close to 1" but I want to be precise.
Click to expand...
Measure the depth of the holes on both inner and outer cases and make the dowels a bit shorter - their purpose is only to index or register the two cases in a fixed relationship to each other . If they are too long they will hold the cases apart . If you are not ordering new ones from Andover et all You need to be certain that they are a close sliding fit - if there is any slop it defeats their purpose.
 
I think I got it. Used two 5/16 drill bits (cut off the smooth ends and chamfered them on my bench grinder). Put the cover on and added 7oz of ATF. We'll see tomorrow if I got my measurements right.
 
OEM dowel is 3/4" long, holes were 0.6" deep on the inner cover and 0.53" on outer cover but cannot say if they are 5/16 diameter all the way to that depth as if drilled and not milled there will be a point at the bottom.
 
I realize you solved it, I sourced from the local industrial hardware store.
Where I get most of my fasteners.
And then there is always McMaster Carr.
 
After putting everything back together the clutch works. But if it sits for a day or two and I put it in first (not running), squeeze the clutch and rock the wheel I have to rock it back and forth several times and it will finally free up. Is that normal?
 
MarkDeaton said:
But if it sits for a day or two and I put it in first (not running), squeeze the clutch and rock the wheel I have to rock it back and forth several times and it will finally free up. Is that normal?
Click to expand...

It is often necessary to free the clutch if the engine hasn't been started for a day or so. The normal procedure is to pull in the clutch lever and with the gearbox in neutral, operate the kickstart until the plates free off and that should be part of your normal starting ritual at least for the first start of the day.

Clutches with older fibre friction plates tend to stick the worst (as I've never known the 'bronze' plates to stick that your '73-'74 would have had originally). If the plates are difficult to unstick after just a day or two then perhaps consider fitting a new set of friction plates.
 
L.A.B. said:
It is often necessary to free the clutch if the engine hasn't been started for a day or so. The normal procedure is to pull in the clutch lever and with the gearbox in neutral, operate the kickstart until the plates free off and that should be part of your normal starting ritual at least for the first start of the day.

Clutches with older fibre friction plates tend to stick the worst (as I've never known the 'bronze' plates to stick that your '73-'74 would have had originally). If the plates are difficult to unstick after just a day or two then perhaps consider fitting a new set of friction plates.
Click to expand...
I think I need new ones. I "freed" them and all is working but while running if I pop it into 1st there's a loud fit.
 
i drained all the old engine oil, refilled the tank with fresh and I am wondering how do I ensure the fresh oil is making it to the engine? Loosen the drain plug and check for fresh oil coming out? It still starts and idles but the left header gets hot quick and a lot faster than the right. I mean like...hot as in it idles for a minute or two, I kill the engine and spit on the header and it boils off instantly.
 
I just want to make sure the new oil is making to the engine after filling the tank. The only way I habe learned to change the oil ir remove the drain plug from under the engine, drain the old oil, then fill the tank (behind the right side plate). Which is very new to me I have always just filled engines with oil at the engine.
 
MarkDeaton said:
The only way I habe learned to change the oil ir remove the drain plug from under the engine, drain the old oil, then fill the tank (behind the right side plate).
Click to expand...

It's a dry sump engine so unless the complete contents of the oil tank has been allowed to drain to the sump then removing the sump plug won't drain all the oil.
Changing the oil is covered in the Routine Maintenance section (K) of the factory manual.
 
MarkDeaton said:
I just want to make sure the new oil is making to the engine after filling the tank. The only way I habe learned to change the oil ir remove the drain plug from under the engine, drain the old oil, then fill the tank (behind the right side plate). Which is very new to me I have always just filled engines with oil at the engine.
Click to expand...
Drain plug for changing the oil is not just the sump drain....but the tank drain located bottom of tank under the right side cover (at least on the MKII type tanks). The sump drain is just for getting the small volume out the sump (can actually be much more volume if the bike is significantly wet sumped over weeks of non-use).
 
Last edited:
L.A.B. said:
The scavenge should be returning the oil to the tank.
Click to expand...
For OP's clarity, I'd add returning oil can be easily checked on start up by peering in to the oil tank filler neck and seeing it spit/stream back into tank. If more evidence is wanted, then pull off a rocker cover, start the bike and see oil squirting around the rockers. Fitting an oil pressure gauge is a good idea as well.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top