I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)

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I tried a ball valve in the pump intake line until I realized how risky that was. Next came the spring loaded valve. Zero oil pressure at idle with hot oil. Finally, I wised up and sent timing cover and oil pump to AMR. No more significant wet sumping and no more worries.
 
I know what you did with the valves.
Not a good idea at all, not sure why you would think it was.
Now you are looking at a different product and tarring it with your brush.
These are manufactured products.
The people who make and sell them make money from this.
On a public forum, you have made a false derogatory statement about their product, one that cannot be backed up. This is not a good idea either.

Glen
 
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worntorn said:
I know what you did with the valves.
Not a good idea at all, not sure why you would think it was.
Now you are looking at a different product and tarring it with your brush.
These are manufactured products.
The people who make and sell them make money from this.
On a public forum, you have made a false derogatory statement about their product, one that cannot be backed up. This is not a good idea either.

Glen
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In a court of law you have made a libelous statement. Watch your step.

I never mentioned any particular product. It’s you who are promoting a product.
 
Danno said:
There was an elderly (ahem)gentleman at Barber one year selling a yellow 750 Roadster. As soon as he got a firm offer, he set about pulling the Mk III timing cover to replace it with an older type. Said no way was he was selling his non-wet sumping cover with the bike. Is that sufficient or does the pump need the AMR-type mods too? The Mk III engine in the SS clone wet sumps very little over time. The Titanic's '73 850 motor drops it's load in no time at all.
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the MK3 pump has a wider seal and seal backup that would need to be replaced. I found my anti wet sump MK3 plunger stuck open, it needed to be worked in order for it to be free. The larger diameter seal back up does not fit on some non MK3 oil pumps, the casting on the pump will not allow the backer to sit flush, I had to machine a little off.Also I had to make sure the installed cover with the gasket would contact the seal and compress it in order to insure no leak paths.

I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
 
Btw, I don't have one of these on my MK3.
It holds the oil in the tank for a couple of months so as long as I fire it up mid winter, no issues. During the riding season also no problem.
I would definitely give the AMR mod a try with a problem wetsumping Norton. It seems to work out for some owners.
I tried contacting them through phone and email earlier this year, no luck.
My 650ss is very incontinent.


Glen
 
Thanks for the detailed explanation, Jimbo. I was aware the faucet washer seals were different from one to the other , but not about the other differences.
 
Lineslinger said:
I overhauled the oil pump and leave the engine at or near TDC after shutdown.
Drain-back into the crankcase eliminated.

Everyone has their own way of addressing a problem on their bike, who am I to criticize the aesthetic influence, I'm not riding it and if it works for them more power to them.
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Lineslinger, Please forgive me if this is a stupid question. How do the pistons at TDC help prevent wet sumping?
Thanks, Jim
 
When the pistons are at TDC the holes in the crank are at their highest, so the head of oil creating the pressure is at its lowest. The head of oil is the 15 psi of atmospheric pressure over the vertical distance, reduce the vertical distance and the head is less.
 
kommando said:
When the pistons are at TDC the holes in the crank are at their highest, so the head of oil creating the pressure is at its lowest. The head of oil is the 15 psi of atmospheric pressure over the vertical distance, reduce the vertical distance and the head is less.
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Except for the fact that there are weep holes in the connecting rods that align with weep holes in the crankshaft journals when the pistons are at TDC, so it's probably a toss up as to whether the aligned weep holes cause more oil to leak through rather than not be aligned and be in a lower position for greater gravitational force...

I lapped my oil pump faces to get tighter tolerances which helps with sumping and probably increases oil pressure too...
 
o0norton0o said:
Except for the fact that there are weep holes in the connecting rods that align with weep holes in the crankshaft journals when the pistons are at TDC
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No, at TDC the weep hole in the conrod is vertical, the hole in the big end is horizontal, just checked a crank to confirm. So they are 90 degrees apart.
 
AMR is now offering to drill the OPRV blow off into the timing chest with the standard pump mod. I've had this done on 2 bikes so far, though on my current engine the timing chest drain has been relocated, so I suspect the relocated OPRV vent is now moot. Regardless, I'll never put another valve of any sort in the feed line, but I don't have feelings either way about what others do on their bikes.

My bikes don't sump badly with rebuilt pumps and AMR spring balls anyway.
 
Lets try some pictures

Crank at TDC with con rod resting on top, note the holes do not line up but are at 90 degrees when the crank is at TDC, Triumph and BSA cranks in my possession are all the same.

I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)


Yes the hole in the rod is not vertical but as the holes do not line up this is academic.

I fixed it.....the wet sumping that is. (2014)
 
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o0norton0o said:
The big end IS the connecting rod... Your statement above makes no sense.

The weep hole in the big end of the connecting rod is only somewhat verticle, it angles off to one side of the rod arm to squirt the cylinder wall.

The weep hole in the crankshaft journal is pointing at the weep hole in the connecting rod at TDC..
Click to expand...


Probably best to delete that one.
 
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