Winter Projects

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Choke to start up , only , get off it but fast. Full push down tickles cold. Get off the cold choke. She fired up perfect in 2 revolutions. Clutch in.
 
Getting back to the original post, my winter project is first to find the cause of the mysterious noise from the primary drive that's been bothering me all season.
I'm hoping that there will be some clues when I remove the whole primary drive.
Other than that, I want to change the front yokes for the cNw set I bought from Fast Eddie (lovely bit of kit there), I need to modify it slightly to allow the use of normal bars for when I want to play racers. Then there's the AFR meter & sensor to fit, tidy up the Roadster tank and side covers as well as other smaller stuff.
Oh, and I also need to do some work on the Tridents (both the T160 and the T150) and then there's the new fork innards for the Ducati.....
 
SteveBorland said:
Getting back to the original post, my winter project is first to find the cause of the mysterious noise from the primary drive that's been bothering me all season.
I'm hoping that there will be some clues when I remove the whole primary drive.
Other than that, I want to change the front yokes for the cNw set I bought from Fast Eddie (lovely bit of kit there), I need to modify it slightly to allow the use of normal bars for when I want to play racers. Then there's the AFR meter & sensor to fit, tidy up the Roadster tank and side covers as well as other smaller stuff.
Oh, and I also need to do some work on the Tridents (both the T160 and the T150) and then there's the new fork innards for the Ducati.....
Click to expand...
Have you run it up the the primary cover removed...Yes care has to be taken, but it may give you some idea where the noise is coming from from
 
olympus said:
Have you run it up the the primary cover removed...Yes care has to be taken, but it may give you some idea where the noise is coming from from
Click to expand...
Taking care would include not burning your face on the exhaust and tying back any hair or other things that might get slurped into the spinnings as you observe and listen for the source of this noise .
 
SteveBorland said:
Getting back to the original post, my winter project is first to find the cause of the mysterious noise from the primary drive that's been bothering me all season.
I'm hoping that there will be some clues when I remove the whole primary drive.
Other than that, I want to change the front yokes for the cNw set I bought from Fast Eddie (lovely bit of kit there), I need to modify it slightly to allow the use of normal bars for when I want to play racers. Then there's the AFR meter & sensor to fit, tidy up the Roadster tank and side covers as well as other smaller stuff.
Oh, and I also need to do some work on the Tridents (both the T160 and the T150) and then there's the new fork innards for the Ducati.....
Click to expand...
When you get the outer primary cover off look in the bottom for chain roller half shells. Happened to me a few decades ago when the chain was too tight. Adding…unless you have a belt drive.
 
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olympus said:
Have you run it up the the primary cover removed...Yes care has to be taken, but it may give you some idea where the noise is coming from from
Click to expand...
I did think of doing this, but since the noise only happens when releasing the clutch when the engine is under load, it's a bit difficult to do :cool:
I'm really hoping that it's something really silly that I did during the assembly process.
If I still cannot find any cause, then I think I will try putting the chain drive back on, after inspecting the gearbox.
 
SteveBorland said:
I did think of doing this, but since the noise only happens when releasing the clutch markh when the engine is under load, it's a bit difficult to do :cool:
I'm really hoping that it's something really silly that I did during the assembly process.
If I still cannot find any cause, then I think I will try putting the chain drive back on, after inspecting the gearbox.
Click to expand...
I pulled the primery drive off the bike and found some clues. There's a mark on the inner chain case where the clutch basket has been scraping, and some marks on the alternator mounting stud bosses, where the belt has been touching.
I'm suspecting a combination of these was causing the clonking. Cure will be to shim the clutch basket further out clear of the chains inner and to do some more Dremmel work to get clearance on the bosses.

The belt will also be tightened up slightly.

Winter Projects
Winter Projects
 
SteveBorland said:
I pulled the primery drive off the bike and found some clues. There's a mark on the inner chain case where the clutch basket has been scraping, and some marks on the alternator mounting stud bosses, where the belt has been touching.
I'm suspecting a combination of these was causing the clonking. Cure will be to shim the clutch basket further out clear of the chains inner and to do some more Dremmel work to get clearance on the bosses.

The belt will also be tightened up slightly.

View attachment 101836View attachment 101837
Click to expand...
Are you certain the inner chaincase is shimmed correctly?
Looks like your crank seal is letting by a little?
 
baz said:
Are you certain the inner chaincase is shimmed correctly?
Looks like your crank seal is letting by a little?
Click to expand...
Also, The witness mark on the the inner case from the sheet metal sleeve gear "seal", looks like there is some ongoing MOTION there.
 
concours said:
Also, The witness mark on the the inner case from the sheet metal sleeve gear "seal", looks like there is some ongoing MOTION there.
Click to expand...
Yeah could be
It's a while since I've had those seal plates on my chaincase
So I'm not sure you should be able to see that much of the felt seal ?
Really looks like the case is shimmed too far out to me
 
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Winter Projects

I hope to get this working. That's an 11mm master cylinder, operating the stock caliper/disc and the Smartie/M&M switches. I'll need to find some brake line adaptors since the available hose will connect directly to the caliper and it (the hose) has a BSPP end fitting. The switches are quite neat, but the attached wiring is no more than 24AWG which is fine for me since the headlight (red button) and horn (yellow button) are powered by relays. The little dirt bike sourced master cylinder isn't ideal, it has a very short (two finger) lever, but it works. I also have a full-size Brembo, round cap master cylinder with an 11mm bore; wish I could find another one of those, but they seem to be very rare.
 
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As Baz said the inner case could be shimmed too far out by the looks of the wear mark from the clutch housing as well make sure you don't have much clutch wobble, as well where the gear box shaft comes out the inner case look like a bit of gap from being shimmed too far out.
 
ashman said:
As Baz said the inner case could be shimmed too far out by the looks of the wear mark from the clutch housing as well make sure you don't have much clutch wobble, as well where the gear box shaft comes out the inner case look like a bit of gap from being shimmed too far out.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the comments. I don’t think the shimming is out, but I’ll check this again.
No sign of leaks from the crank seal though.
The gearbox shaft has no play that I can feel, and what I suspect is normal bearing wobble on the basket.
 
You are sure showing signs of too much shimming of the inner case centre bolt also could be doing up the outer case centre bolt to tight to cause the inner case to warp.
Remember there is not much clearance from the inner case to things running inside the primary and only takes a few things not right to cause things to rub inside the case.
There should be no wobble at all but they do a little bit, I don't have any wobble in mine.
 
Measure and shim out the inner chain case support stud . Fit a new main shaft circlip , a better one.
 
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