I decided to inspect the valve gaps, and pull the sump plug to inspect the screen for any metal shavings before pulling the head and barrels off... The valve gaps were still perfect, and the screen was totally clean. I inspected and strained the oil and it was clean with zero metallic looks to it... I concluded that the cam and followers are probably fine or I would have had some changes to the valve gaps. Also having no debris in the sump plug screen leads me to believe that nothing inside the crankcase is grinding towards it's failure, so I am leaving the crankcase alone at this point.... The oil had no metallic look to it whatsoever so I'm going to buy a new transmission filter (fitted as an oil filter on the oil return line) and open up the old one to see if there's any tell tale metalic particulate matter in there. Mostly, I've concluded that my weird occasional noise at idle is something other than the crankcase.
The custom drain plug idea you describe is a good one for another reason. I've lost a few drain plugs on the road. They have a tendency to loosen and fall out and it's hard to keep them tight with those fiber washers.I started stripping down my bike in the vestibule of my house yesterday.
It turns out that I am going to inspect the primary case for the weird sound as was suggested. It's definitely the easiest thing to troubleshoot if the noise is coming from in there...
I'm trying to order a new timing chain from Jason the chain man... Holy shit what a pain in the ass to phone the UK from the USA... I ordered the late model rubberized timing chain tensioner from AN. My commando has the original metal one and the original timing chain too. I figure that 30,000 miles is enough mileage for the original. Maybe a new one will tighten up the strobe light response a bit which couldn't hurt. I'm wondering a little bit about the rubberized tensioner and if there's a technique to setting it that doesn't include readjusting it after a bit of break in...
I did this weird modification to my carbs which I copied from that aussie guy who doesn't post here any more. The modification holds my carb bowls in place with a long perforated drain plug cylinder that grabs onto the bottom of the jet holder (which I threaded on the lathe) I like it a lot, because the bowl doesn't warp from over tightening the ears or leak because of the even pressure on the bowl. I am going to put new jets, needles, new float needles, and clean out the idle circuits in my carbs, so they will be set up for the first nice days to come.
I'm also trying new spark plugs Denso W22TT which are iridium tipped and have a platinum coated ground electrode...
I'm changing a bunch of things at the same time, so chaos should ensue, unless I just happen to get every single thing correctly installed and adjusted,.... but what are the chances of that...
it's built on the table from scratch. its getting it "off" the table . . . that's the fun part. a very long ramp, and a trustworthy friend.
Valve clearances are not really a good indicator of cam condition, cams wear on the lobes usually and not the base circle.I started stripping down my bike in the vestibule of my house yesterday.
It turns out that I am going to inspect the primary case for the weird sound as was suggested. It's definitely the easiest thing to troubleshoot if the noise is coming from in there...
I'm trying to order a new timing chain from Jason the chain man... Holy shit what a pain in the ass to phone the UK from the USA... I ordered the late model rubberized timing chain tensioner from AN. My commando has the original metal one and the original timing chain too. I figure that 30,000 miles is enough mileage for the original. Maybe a new one will tighten up the strobe light response a bit which couldn't hurt. I'm wondering a little bit about the rubberized tensioner and if there's a technique to setting it that doesn't include readjusting it after a bit of break in...
I did this weird modification to my carbs which I copied from that aussie guy who doesn't post here any more. The modification holds my carb bowls in place with a long perforated drain plug cylinder that grabs onto the bottom of the jet holder (which I threaded on the lathe) I like it a lot, because the bowl doesn't warp from over tightening the ears or leak because of the even pressure on the bowl. I am going to put new jets, needles, new float needles, and clean out the idle circuits in my carbs, so they will be set up for the first nice days to come.
I'm also trying new spark plugs Denso W22TT which are iridium tipped and have a platinum coated ground electrode...
I'm changing a bunch of things at the same time, so chaos should ensue, unless I just happen to get every single thing correctly installed and adjusted,.... but what are the chances of that...
Thanks for that comment Nigel. That means that I am relying on only the lack of metal in my oil and filters as proof that my cam and lifters are good... I have to rethink my plan..
Did you buy those directly from Amal, through Andover Norton, or through someone else?
