Which electronic ignition?

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my order if shopping is.
1 trispark as it is self contained and so far has been a quality unit with great support
2 pazon good value for the money also good support
3 boyer been around a long time and gives little trouble
4 power arc maybe as a last resort. optical triggers is way outdated tech most all have gone away from them. also not fond of the way it has to index TDC and count.
sparks is NOT even on the list as it IMHO is not worth the cost of the box it comes in.
 
capehorner said:
Pazon Sure-Fire. Priced right, good technical help, 7 1/2 year guarantee. Have not had one problem since installing and I might add...great installation instructions.
+1, I have 2 setups and will be ordering more.
 
A+ on the trispark performance. D- when you compare the pricing of this unit to other pieces out there.

I say it's worth it
 
I have heard good things about the Tri-Spark, the unit is very compact, no separate box, and easy to set up.
The Boyer Micro Digital will fire at very, very low voltage, I have had one in my 75 for around ten years with no problems. I use it with the e-start all the time. It is out of warranty which is 5 years I think.
The Tri-spark is a lot more expensive, but if my Boyer goes I am going to get one.
The Boyer can be bought for around $190.00 USD, the Tri Spark for around $295.00 USD. I don't know how long the warranty is.

MF
 
MikeG said:
MikeG said:
#1 on avoiding the Sparx, mine is less than a year old and the insulation and wiring is cracked to hell. Still works but...??? I also have a Power Arc from Old Britts. Been having ignition trouble of late and not sure yet with what. Still going through the elimination process of switch/harness/?? Tonight I ran a wire direct from battery to Power Arc to bypass all of it. I'll find out tomorrow if its the cure of if the Power Arc is bad.

Well the results are in, with ALL of my original switches and harness bypassed the Power Arc would not even get me out of my driveway this AM. It will be replaced...

Switching back to contact breakers?
 
concours said:
MikeG said:
MikeG said:
#1 on avoiding the Sparx, mine is less than a year old and the insulation and wiring is cracked to hell. Still works but...??? I also have a Power Arc from Old Britts. Been having ignition trouble of late and not sure yet with what. Still going through the elimination process of switch/harness/?? Tonight I ran a wire direct from battery to Power Arc to bypass all of it. I'll find out tomorrow if its the cure of if the Power Arc is bad.

Well the results are in, with ALL of my original switches and harness bypassed the Power Arc would not even get me out of my driveway this AM. It will be replaced...

Switching back to contact breakers?

Glow plugs :lol:
 
Have TriSpark on my Trident, came with bike. Has the annoying sudden cut out
whilst riding. This season will move brain box from atop coil tray to elsewhere
away from other eletrical components.
Otherwise seems to run fine. Previous triple had a analogue Boyer for upteen
trouble free years.
Have purchased Altair Pazon for the Commando we shall see how it goes.
 
I think the biggest issue I have with Boyer is if Pazon, Tri-Spark, etc, did not exist, would there have been a MKIV version? Doubt it. I replaced an old Boyer on my Combat with a newer MKIII Boyer, and it worked much better. That bike currently runs a Tri-Spark, and it runs flawlessly, as does my E-Start MKIII with a Pazon. I replaced a newish Boyer on my '69 Trident (never did work all that well), with one of the first Tri-Sparks sold by Steve Kelly. What a revelation! With my experiences in mind, I like to reward and take a chance on the new stuff, rather that old stuff that is finally updated.
 
Ugh Windy can't sneak nothing under your nose. Those above gizmos are only to relieve the contact surfaces of excess voltage so am still looking to see if that trigger signal can be sent to a timing skewing analog or digital brain box. Its kind of subtle but I like the points sense of starting and idle and response better than a Boyer and have my own life time supply of AAU's to spare but wouldn't think it cheating if a electro brain could mimic the AAU curve or better it for the long run.
If the cam drive is wigglie that limits the accuracy of a trigger there which leaves crank sensor like my lawnmowers as next level of best there is spark wise.
 
Remember this?

Which electronic ignition?


The points advance curve is nice. And this one has a modified dwell too. I wish we could get the drawings. Not that I'm complaining about my Pazon.

Dave
69S
 
in all realty a crank trigger would be the best way to go. you don't have the harmonics of the camshaft and the slack that is associated with it. the sprockets are NEVER concentric so you have to compromise on the chain tension so you have more of a variable to add in than IF you had a lot tighter drive system to the cam. a good Ign system would have a knock sensor and a map sensor just to get started. but as we are working on a low budget engine ( and parts purchaser's ) than it will always be a compromise. giving the constraints we work with the EI's that are on the market are not a bad deal.
 
I think someone had a crank trigger setup on here a while ago.

Dave
69S
 
Hi Dave, I have a crank triggered EI on bike 2, it is fitted around a 40mm Maney belt drive, modified the inner chain case to suit and also the standard carrier plate that this ignition system comes with to make it all fit, standard crank shaft nut is used to retain all.
I will be using a standard primary cover just until I have got every thing set up and running, then will modify that to a guard instead of a cover.
This is a track bike not a road bike, so it is battery less.
Regards Mike

http://www.rexcauntracing.com
 
Would love to see how you arranged all that trick stuff in primary. Btw do ya know Clubman Racing sells a plastic primary cover for a few more easy lbs off and easy to trim more decorative venting pants leg shielding. Only comes in black.
 
you might have rejected Sparx 3 phase alternator given the posts here and the CNW position regarding it. I installed one about a year ago which predated the current issues touch wood. But I still had to get the stator machined to fit the crank; the hole in it was too small. And some prefer a podtronics rectifier to the sparx rectifier.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the outer primary cover, will post pics and description of set up this coming weekend.
i think this is fibreglass outer primary in this pic NZ based bike
Regards Mike
Which electronic ignition?
 
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