What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

Spent 4 hours Friday switching the tires (New set of Shinkos 712) from my Combat that's still being functional decoration in my office to the 850 in the garage that I ride (which has older set of Dunlops with the classic AM9 tread pattern). I wanted to try out the Shinkos and see how the ride on the road. I was going to buy a set of Avon RR II but the local bike shop wants $171/tire! Figured I might get a season out of these Shinkos and maybe get some Avons next year. Anybody out there have experience with these less expensive tires. Nice thing about this set is that the fronts are 100/90 and the rears are 110/90 so the rear tire appears larger and looks good.

Probably shouldn't have taken me 4 hours. The fronts took the longest because I had to wrangle with the fenders some. The rears were only about an hour to switch. I haven't ridden it yet to test things out but plan to maybe tomorrow if the weather holds up here in Michigan, where it's decided to head back to winter-type weather today and the past few days.
 
L.A.B. said:
Approximately 45 degrees when measured from straight and...
What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

...when fitted should look like this but yours seems to have a serious bend at the housing. This is a Venhill cable (actually they're two different Venhill cables in the pictures).
What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
Click to expand...
i would call it 135 then LAB for me it is the angle of the bent material LOL
 
Got more parts on, swing arm, shocks, head steady, z plates, coils. Anyone know how to get that stub axle out of the brake drum? I want to go to a solid axle and probably new bearing.
What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
Thanks.
 
jamesp said:
Got more parts on, swing arm, shocks, head steady, z plates, coils. Anyone know how to get that stub axle out of the brake drum? I want to go to a solid axle and probably new bearing. View attachment 105979Thanks.
Click to expand...
Timely post. LAB posted a link in this thread.
www.accessnorton.com

Tips on removing the rear brake drum dished washer?

When I install my rear wheel and tighten it up, the wheel binds slightly. Having done a search on here, I'd like to inspect the circlip (062090) to check it hasn't come loose and so causing the binding. There is a dished retaining washer (063012) keeping it all in situ...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
jamesp said:
Got more parts on, swing arm, shocks, head steady, z plates, coils. Anyone know how to get that stub axle out of the brake drum? I want to go to a solid axle and probably new bearing. View attachment 105979Thanks.
Click to expand...
Looking good! You look like you're about to get deep into the rear wheel. If so, I would test fit the chain guard first to be sure it's doesn't interfere with those shiny new rear shocks. Most after-market rear shocks do interfere.
 
I wish I could get enough inspiration to even go and look at my bike. Grief is a really horrible thing and I don't think a psychiologist would help. I just need to come to terms with my current situation.
Im still interested, but the shne has gone off it. If I force myself to go and put my transmission back together, it might be easy but , I will probably get worse. I need to be convinced that I really want to use the bike again, even to make a video.
It is a silly thing, my mate who died had taught me a lot, and he rode the Seeley a couple of times. I had never seen him so happy as when he rode back into the pits, the last time. He was an excellent rider and I think he really had some fun.
I have ridden a few race bikes, and my Seeley is by far the best.
 
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marshg246 said:
Looking good! You look like you're about to get deep into the rear wheel. If so, I would test fit the chain guard first to be sure it's doesn't interfere with those shiny new rear shocks. Most after-market rear shocks do interfere.
Click to expand...
Hi Greg, those are Ikons and I had them on before with good fitment.
 
MichaelB said:
Timely post. LAB posted a link in this thread.
www.accessnorton.com

Tips on removing the rear brake drum dished washer?

When I install my rear wheel and tighten it up, the wheel binds slightly. Having done a search on here, I'd like to inspect the circlip (062090) to check it hasn't come loose and so causing the binding. There is a dished retaining washer (063012) keeping it all in situ...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
Click to expand...
Thank you. I will give it a try..
 
Buffed up the front brake caliper and wiped the disc all over with a acetone moistened cloth. It was black and seemed greasy! Hope the caliper isn’t leaking but if it is, it would go someway to explain why the brake is shite, perhaps even shitier than they usually are.
 
Cut down and modified a damaged number plate/tail light bracket to make a support for a catch can for the oil tank breather. Final task - empty a receptacle to do the catching - Epic Hop Zombie today. :)

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
Stevo said:
Only thing I notice after the short run was that the r hand pipe only has started to discolor next to the rose clamp. Both sides will obviously turn eventually but is this a sign that r hand cylinder is running hotter?
Click to expand...


I’ve been filling up with basic gas, ethanol free with a dose of Seafoam. Is it likely bike would run cooler overall if using top grade stuff?
 
Premium fuel has additives added to make your motor run cleaner for valves, rings and pistons for less carbon build up so in long term would help to run cooler maybe, I know my spark plugs run cleaner using Premium fuel 95 or 98 octane here in Aus, 91 is just normal UL fuel but also have 91 with E 10% my bikes don't like the low octane fuel and my Norton will ping with it but I usually run 98 plus the bike runs so much better and get more mileage out of a tank of fuel so paying a bit more is worth it in the bikes.
But of course you will get others who say it makes no difference but modern fuels aren't the same as when we had leaded fuels it was so much better and long lasting.
 
Engine breather should route to the oil tank.

The breather valve greatly reduces the volume of gasses going back and forth, therefore less frothing etc in the tank.

Therefore, oil tank breather really shouldn’t emit anymore than an odd drop so long as the tank is not over filled.

Nothing wrong with the catch tank if that’s what you wanna do, just that it should not really be needed.

All only IMHO.
 
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I run a reed valve sump plug engine breather with a free flow breather under my seat from the oil tank that then runs to waste down to my front sprocket...
 

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