What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

Jdub said:
Wait, this is positive ground? Do I hook the charger as BRN/PRP > Black (CTEK) and RED > Red (CTEK)? I think I know the answer but do NOT want to fry a harness I spent months building.
Click to expand...

Yes, always positive to positive and negative to negative regardless, so brown/blue connects to charger negative black, and red to red.
If you were to connect the CTEK incorrectly then I would expect it to cut out and light the red problem [!] warning.

Battery protection

www.ctek.com www.ctek.com
"All CTEK chargers are fully automatic, spark proof and reverse polarity protected,"
 
Went for a ride up to high beech and met up with Cliffa
There were 5 Norton's there today,these bikes are just too common
 

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With the excellent help of this forum I now have the correct clearance for my rotor-in-stator. Let me admit my stupidity - NEVER, EVER hammer on the stud, you will instantly deform the alloy threads and bore, resulting in having to screw the stud in and completely losing the direction you thought you would heave the stator towards. While there is a primordial aspect to our bikes I am supposed to be a 21st century rider.

I hum "Highway to the Danger Zone" when I look at this picture ("Fortuna Bona!"). We shall see when I get this on the road.

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
 
Bonzo said:
Cheers Ron 👍

I don't feel so bad now 🤣🤣
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I replaced the oil lines , lapped the oil pump , checked the factory anti wet sump valve ( piston / spring ) replaced the rubber seal from pump to timing cover and after 20 years removed the CNW in-line anti wet sump valve . My intention was to see how well my factory set up worked . Poured in 2 1/2 litres of oil and watched and waited for the oil to come out through the small drain plug in the bottom of the crankcase .. In an hour there was nothing more than a tablespoon .... Next morning after 21 hours , YUP , this mess . The timing cover is now off and time to figure out how the oil is working its way out .. Maybe time for a AMR "o-ring " mod to the pump. Times like this justifies owning at least two bikes .
 
176 mi. of beautiful riding today. The weather is finally turning warmer, perfect for riding. Met the wifey for supper at a pizza place. I pulled up to park with a crowd of outside diners scoping me and the bike out. My wife then strolled up and we made our way into the establishment. We were just inside the door waiting to be seated and my wife said, “There’s somebody checking out your bike already.” I turned around and watched this guy walking around the bike checking it out. After checking it over, he looked around and saw me looking at him. He gave me a great big smile and a thumbs up He knew it was my bike as I was the only person with a leather jacket. After we were seated, I remarked to my wife that every-time I stop somewhere with the bike it elicits similar responses. It takes twenty minutes sometimes just to fuel up because invariably,someone comes up to admire the bike and chat. I don’t mind as I’m proud of my bike and all the hard but very satisfying work that I put into rebuilding my machine. Safe riding to all!
 
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Stevo said:
Yes, that is quite some front brake upgrade too. Nice Tridents also.
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It does the job, much larger than stock with a Busa 6 pot caliper courtesy of Madass. Also a 13mm AN master cylinder.

The Trident brake is as woeful as a stock Commando, hindered by any equally bad rear caliper setup, at least the Interstate also has a great rear drum brake.
 
Took the clutch plates out & gave them a clean with brake cleaner, while I was in there I installed the clutch rod seal - had to remove the rear washer to get enough thread without the CRS bottoming out on the clutch nut. Talking of the clutch nut, it was loose - not hand loose (?!), but I didn't need much force to start it.

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

I also replaced one of the plates with the 3mm RGM plate. With the 3mm plate, I was only just able to get the retaining circlip in - no way would a 4mm go.

I intended to finish the job off with a Venhill F/L cable, but hit a snag :( The diaphragm isn't moving.

But I'm goosed and will look at it tomorrow.
 
Bonzo said:
Took the clutch plates out & gave them a clean with brake cleaner, while I was in there I installed the clutch rod seal - had to remove the rear washer to get enough thread without the CRS bottoming out on the clutch nut. Talking of the clutch nut, it was loose - not hand loose (?!), but I didn't need much force to start it.

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

I also replaced one of the plates with the 3mm RGM plate. With the 3mm plate, I was only just able to get the retaining circlip in - no way would a 4mm go.

I intended to finish the job off with a Venhill F/L cable, but hit a snag :( The diaphragm isn't moving.

But I'm goosed and will look at it tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Looks like you need to get your fingers back into the outer gearbox cover 😉
 
Bonzo said:
I also replaced one of the plates with the 3mm RGM plate. With the 3mm plate, I was only just able to get the retaining circlip in - no way would a 4mm go.
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With the increased stack height, it may be necessary to readjust the diaphragm spring compressor to refit the circlip in which case either the 3mm or 4mm plate should fit.

Bonzo said:
The diaphragm isn't moving.
Click to expand...

It's possible the operating lever inside the gearbox outer cover may have dropped out of position.
 
Stevo said:
Thanks for those suggestions Ying, I started looking then got sidetracked, see below!
So now, just so I don’t get complacent, apparently I need new headers coz the lh one has a crack at the weld with the balance pipe which has started to run across the pipe itself.
I’ve started looking at a few suppliers of Mk ll 850 balanced headers but wondered if your good selves might chime in with any of your own experiences. Thanks
Steve
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The cross over pipe can be brazed up again to make it work a welding teacher did it for me . He said this was never a weld material . He also said it will never look as good again .
You don't want it to crack again so take all stresses off both the joins to the pipes by tightening in last sequence of exhaust fitting and tightenings . Good luck .
 
Stevo said:
Thanks for those suggestions Ying, I started looking then got sidetracked, see below!
So now, just so I don’t get complacent, apparently I need new headers coz the lh one has a crack at the weld with the balance pipe which has started to run across the pipe itself.
I’ve started looking at a few suppliers of Mk ll 850 balanced headers but wondered if your good selves might chime in with any of your own experiences. Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...
As just mentioned i have had a chrome header pipe brazed up that was cracked on the weld...my mate coated the area to be repaired with black carbon soot from the torch... before setting the torch correctly as he said it will limit discoloration to the finish...worked a treat...tig welding is possible after careful preparation...(grind small v groove to the damaged hair line crack)...I doubt you will get much spitting as there is bugger all copper coating beneath the chrome on these pipes.. and with the correct filter rod won't look to bad...my 2 cents...good luck...
 
baz said:
Loved the gear change/foot rest position on this roadster
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The chrome tanked 750 with the tapped headlight appears to me to have some sort of ram air feed inlet grill above the F.R.E rocker cover....or am I not seeing straight.. interesting?
 
KiwiShane said:
The chrome tanked 750 with the tapped headlight appears to me to have some sort of ram air feed inlet grill above the F.R.E rocker cover....or am I not seeing straight.. interesting?
Click to expand...

I think the item with the grill that you are looking at is a (Fiamm-type) horn.
One of a pair, there's another on the LH side.
Edit:
www.mecatechnic.com

12 volt sport high and low two-tone horn

www.mecatechnic.com www.mecatechnic.com
 
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