What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

Further investigations have put my mind at rest. This shot from when I first noticed

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This was before I dislodged a small piece with my fingernail which I immediately recovered.


What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This part clearly fills the gap in the 1st photo. Its underside is highly burnished meaning it can only fit on the left of the break. Therefore it appears I’ve recovered most of not all of the parts and I’m in agreement with Matt that tearing the engine down is therefore unnecessary. Time to order some parts me thinks, wish me luck 🤪
 
Further investigations have put my mind at rest. This shot from when I first noticed

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This was before I dislodged a small piece with my fingernail which I immediately recovered.


What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This part clearly fills the gap in the 1st photo. Its underside is highly burnished meaning it can only fit on the left of the break. Therefore it appears I’ve recovered most of not all of the parts and I’m in agreement with Matt that tearing the engine down is therefore unnecessary. Time to order some parts me thinks, wish me luck 🤪
Good Luck . After seeing your situation , both of my mushroom adjusters are to be removed this winter . Relief .
 
Haven't had any problem with my stock adjusters in 48+ years of ownership, even running with the 2S cam, sometimes we spend a lot of money replacing things that don't need replacing with so call upgrades/improvements, anyway glad you got it before it went further through your motor, no need to pull the motor down, just keep an eye on that magnet.
 
This is what fits as standard now and I understand for some time. I expect RobbSS can confirm here.
I’m torn as to what to replace with. Obviously Matt knows what he’s doing and his point about valve longevity I get. These look clearly beefier, the mushrooms on mine look so fragile, but replacing again requires rocker removal; I’ll find out how much of a chore that is soon.
Conversely, standard tappet adjusters from RGM are a doddle to replace but unlikely will ever need to be but consequent valve replacement over time certainly isn’t.
Don’t wish to start any kind of battle here, I’ve heard both sides and fully respect both offering it and have to take my pick
 
If it were me, and the adjusters seemed to be striking nicely on the valve tip I would replace with standard. I have to say, that mushroom shoulder looks pretty feeble considering that at full deflection it’s bearing the brunt of the valve spring acting against it.

Have you run a magnet around the area? It looks as though there may be more debris?


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If it were me, and the adjusters seemed to be striking nicely on the valve tip I would replace with standard. I have to say, that mushroom shoulder looks pretty feeble considering that at full deflection it’s bearing the brunt of the valve spring acting against it.

Have you run a magnet around the area? It looks as though there may be more debris?


View attachment 117309
Having just changed the oil is clear enough to see there is nothing else in the at least were visible. I will be able to see more with the rocker out maybe even down the PR tunnels. The piece shown was removed by magnetising an old feeler gauge as it was lodged between the spring seat and the front of the casing so no room for any extended magnet, very simple.

Yes, the strike point is nice but I recall one of the inlets was off-centre. Valve ends look great, no dimples and I’m sure Matt would say that’s because of the mushroom type used.

I agree with you, the shoulder looks unnecessarily feeble unlike the adjusters he now uses. If mushroom type had no fear of failure then it would be a no brainier; fit and forget with little to no valve tip wear for many many miles, as mine @ 12.5k demonstrates.
 
In the interest of safety I would change the oil several times - get the bike up to operating temp, listen closely for rattles and thumps, change oil and filter and repeat
Agreed but if the piece I have fits exactly in the 1st shot and that I removed the second piece immediately after it came off then I have it all. This I will check when I remove the adjuster.

I agree with Matt that only minuscule fragments could possibly have evaded detection and will likely get picked up by the sump magnets. I will therefore drop the sump oil after each ride (winter will only get weekly 10 milers to keep him happy) to see.

I could off course get totally paranoid and strip the whole thing down 🤣 🤣 🤣
 
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Would it make sense if there was a screen or magnet mounted at the top of the tunnels somehow? If a piece of anything broke off, a screen could save swarf failure
 
Would it make sense if there was a screen or magnet mounted at the top of the tunnels somehow? If a piece of anything broke off, a screen could save swarf failure
Probably tough to do as the pushrods would have to pass through it - a screen would also be restrictive as the tunnels are a drain/ return path for the oil being pumped to the top end .
 
This has bee
If it were me, and the adjusters seemed to be striking nicely on the valve tip I would replace with standard. I have to say, that mushroom shoulder looks pretty feeble considering that at full deflection it’s bearing the brunt of the valve spring acting against it.

Have you run a magnet around the area? It looks as though there may be more debris?


View attachment 117309
Post 3131

I wouldn't blame the builder.

Further investigations have put my mind at rest. This shot from when I first noticed

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This was before I dislodged a small piece with my fingernail which I immediately recovered.


What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?
Further investigations have put my mind at rest. This shot from when I first noticed

What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This was before I dislodged a small piece with my fingernail which I immediately recovered.


What Did You Do With Your Commando Today?

This part clearly fills the gap in the 1st photo. Its underside is highly burnished meaning it can only fit on the left of the break. Therefore it appears I’ve recovered most of not all of the parts and I’m in agreement with Matt that tearing the engine down is therefore unnecessary. Time to order some parts me thinks, wish me luck 🤪
Sorry I was away for work.
This was discussed back in 2016 on these mushroom adjusters. I think they are too hard. Glass hard. IMHO.
I did not experience the mushroom foot giving way but in my experience I found that I broke off a portion of the slot for the screwdriver area. "Just Too hard".
But that being said.... my 1st rebuild these never failed at the mushroom end and I put over 80 K miles on with no breakage😬. I was using a Mega Cycle cam close to stock configuration.
But now I plan to change them out to the 06-7546/b . and using a new Combat Cam.
This old conversation was when??? All that back when I had a forum text with Comnoz ....way back when. 9 years....
Post 3130 has the link.
YMMV
 
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I picked up Norton from mechanic (needed to helicoil stripped stud hole in head) and rode home- he lives on a nice country road. Sunny but cool. Roads were dry. Traffic was not too bad. Norton ran fine. When I was unlocking the garage with bike idling in driveway, I noticed a little smoke coming from exhaust nuts. Rode bike into garage , turned off, put on center stand, checked oil and got out the exhaust nut wrench and a copper mallet (handy tool for smaller people) Left exhaust nut took about an eighth turn, right nut only an inch or so of play. 22 miles. Happiness is a smoothly running Norton
 
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