Side stand gap

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Just came across this thread while trying to figure out a way to keep my side stand from going all the way under the frame tube. Spoke to Matt at CNW some time ago and he said that they weld a "sugar cube" size piece of steel to the frame to stop this. I haven't tried it as of yet.
What have you done to cure this issue?
John in Texas
 
A bit of a bodge, but effective.

Side stand gap
 
Just came across this thread while trying to figure out a way to keep my side stand from going all the way under the frame tube. Spoke to Matt at CNW some time ago and he said that they weld a "sugar cube" size piece of steel to the frame to stop this. I haven't tried it as of yet.
What have you done to cure this issue?
John in Texas

You'd be better served to cure the problem, not band-aid the symptom. First, rebush, or otherwise restore the pivot to remove droop. Then, if it still misses the frame, a quick bend using 1-1/2" or bigger box wrench slipped over the stand as a lever.
 
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My Norton has well over 200K on the old girl. I had to make a new bushing for the pivot and the original hole in the stand had gone egg shaped.
So that had to be enlarged and a new bush made to fit. I like the idea of putting in a little bit of a bend in it to hit where it was supposed to hit on the frame tube. Trying to fish the side stand out from under the exhaust pipe is a pain. I have been using shock adsorber rubbers as stop rubbers for years, less expensive than stock and cost me nothing when working for a car dealership.
Side stand gap
Side stand gap
Side stand gap
 
You'd be better served to cure the problem, not band-aid the symptom.
I agree but in my case the frame bracket hole is ovalled (past use of a bolt without a plain shank) and the gent I asked about about repairing that asked for the frame with engine out. One day perhaps.
 
Looks like it just needs a "stop on the left side , that other flat type stop looks incorrect to work , Mig it , its just a bit of steel , anyone can mig weld, they made mig welders for people that can't weld and just create slag holes "rat holes with a stick welder . :):p
 
What have you done to cure this issue?
I weld a flat piece of steel to the frame where the rubber buffer touches the frame, the rubber buffer on the sidestand is knocked off as the sidestand pivot wears and the stand is then too low, the plate stops this but you still need to regularly check the sidestand bolt is tight. Pic to follow when I take it.

Pic, not quite sugar cube shaped

Side stand gap
 
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A little off the post , but some of you guys might have issues with stand angle etc here is a stand I made from Stainless for my Matchless and i polished it up , it actually folds up parallel to frame un like the other new one in the background .
 

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I agree but in my case the frame bracket hole is ovalled (past use of a bolt without a plain shank) and the gent I asked about about repairing that asked for the frame with engine out. One day perhaps.
You need a new weldor.
 
I agree but in my case the frame bracket hole is ovalled (past use of a bolt without a plain shank) and the gent I asked about about repairing that asked for the frame with engine out. One day perhaps.
Since the bolt and pivot aren't supposed to move are you sure you can't simply get a new bolt and pivot and make sure they are tight?
 
When i bought the bike (1984) it didn't have a side stand, and it was over 25 years before i bothered to fit one. The one now fitted came from Andover as a kit with bolt etc. and being relatively new isn't showing any sings of wear. Have tried tightening the bolt as much as i can but the leverage of the long stand still makes it move a little in the oversized hole in the bracket.
 
the side stand is very soft steel, and the bushing will wear it out sloppy, and then when it retracts it will miss the frame completely, here is a repair to keep the side stand in aligment
Side stand gap


Side stand gap
 
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