side stand 1973 750

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As I have mentioned in previous posts, the original and previous owner of my '73 Hi-Rider had installed +10" over stock length fork legs, I assume to add to the "chopper" look of these bikes. In converting this bike to roadster trim I have, among other things, installed new stock length fork legs. This bike did not have a center stand when purchased and it was suggested that it may have been rendered useless when the longer fork legs were installed, because the frame would have then been elevated. It also seems the side stand may have been bent/tweaked some to stand the bike a bit more upright to compensate for the elevated frame. Anyway the side stand now holds the bike so nearly straight up that it's concerning that the bike is at risk of falling over when using this side stand. I've looked at new replacement prop stands and they look to be straight down the bent rod "foot" at the bottom of the stand. My prop stand does have a slight bend about 2" from the pivot pin, so I assume that was his solution to hold the bike from falling over with the extended fork legs. Upon reinstalling the prop stand after doing much work up on my lift table, I apparently installed the spring in the wrong hole on the frame and upon lowering the stand to the down position, the spring broke the round hook end off of the spring. I know it shouldn't be that hard to figure out, but is there a pic here on the site showing the correct install of the prop stand and spring. I intend to straighten my prop stand to see if it then has enough "lean" to not feel like the bike is going to fall over to the opposite side. This certainly isn't a highly technical issue but would appreciate any input on this.
 
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As I have mentioned in previous posts, the original and previous owner of my '73 Hi-Rider had installed +10" over stock length fork legs, I assume to add to the "chopper" look of these bikes. In converting this bike to roadster trim I have, among other things, installed new stock length fork legs. This bike did not have a center stand when purchased and it was suggested that it may have been rendered useless when the longer fork legs were installed, because the frame would have then been elevated. It also seems the side stand may have been bent/tweaked some to stand the bike a bit more upright to compensate for the elevated frame. Anyway the side stand now holds the bike so nearly straight up that it's concerning that the bike is at risk of falling over when using this side stand. I've looked at new replacement prop stands and they look to be straight down the bent rod "foot" at the bottom of the stand. My prop stand does have a slight bend about 2" from the pivot pin, so I assume that was his solution to hold the bike from falling over with the extended fork legs. Upon reinstalling the prop stand after doing much work up on my lift table, I apparently installed the spring in the wrong hole on the frame and upon lowering the stand to the down position, the spring broke the round hook end off of the spring. I know it shouldn't be that hard to figure out, but is there a pic here on the site showing the correct install of the prop stand and spring. I intend to straighten my prop stand to see if it then has enough "lean" to not feel like the bike is going to fall over to the opposite side. This certainly isn't a highly technical issue but would appreciate any input on this.
What is your question?

How to bend the stand?
 
If the stand was tweaked inwards, perhaps the hole in the frame cross tube was moved to compensate.
On my 850 (which has the same side stand?), I measured 138mm from the hole for the spring end to the outer side of the lefthand frame tube.
#
That I know but does not apply here being a later frame, the hole for the spring end was moved on the cross tube after 1971 when the stand and mounting bracket was upgraded.
On the earlier bike with the later mount added, the hole needs to be relocated to the above dimension.

It might be worth checking the mount is OK also, the Old Britts template would need some rejigging to work on the underside or maybe a digital level with the bike vertical.

38_200002f.jpg
 
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Thanks to all responders for the help. Have heated and tweaked the prop stand back into an acceptable form that now lets the bike sit with a proper amount of lean, and tucks up properly under the frame. Surprising how tweaking just a few degrees down near the pivot end, changes the foot end so much because of the exaggeration of the length of the stand. If someone can tell me, did Norton place the hole in the bottom of the frame cross tube just to have a place to locate the inner end of the prop spring? Seems like that would just be asking for moisture/water introduction into that fame tube. Also seems, to me anyway, it would have been better to weld a small tab onto the tube for spring attachment.
 
Thanks to all responders for the help. Have heated and tweaked the prop stand back into an acceptable form that now lets the bike sit with a proper amount of lean, and tucks up properly under the frame. Surprising how tweaking just a few degrees down near the pivot end, changes the foot end so much because of the exaggeration of the length of the stand. If someone can tell me, did Norton place the hole in the bottom of the frame cross tube just to have a place to locate the inner end of the prop spring? Seems like that would just be asking for moisture/water introduction into that fame tube. Also seems, to me anyway, it would have been better to weld a small tab onto the tube for spring attachment.
Cheaper to drill a hole . Beware of weld perforations where tab for side stand pivot is attached to frame tube . My Commando got a dunking up to axles during Sandy and allowed salt water in where it worked it’s magic for a few years until I had time to work on it . Main frame rusted through on bottom rails from inside out .
New frame from Andover was less money than repair / repaint and more peace of mind.
 
It's unbelievable that you can get a new frame from Andover for these bikes. Where else could you get a new frame for a fifty year old bike.
And there are hundreds of used ones, I must have 5 or 6. But the price will set you back for a new frame. The new 13mm master cylinders cost more than Norton paid for all the parts on a complete bike, give or take a hundred bucks.
 
One issue I had with a replacement spring, the un-coiled ends were not on same side of coiled section, which meant coil held closer to the pivot bolt head, catching on it with every stand deployment. Having correct thin head pivot bolt also important.
 
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